ok my car's rpm started hikuping a few days ago, steady 700-800 rpm then would droped to 500 rpm for like a second then would run fine for a while then do it all over again.

now the car runs real ruff. the engine hesitates from 0-20mph, and does not run right until over 20mph.

wondering what could be wrong with the car, injector?, AFM? its a 90 GXE manual (VG30E). Still need to check it out but those are the simptoms my wife left, but im at work right now so just want to brain storm, could the head gasket be blown? any advise would be greatly apreciated so just tell me what you think.

 

Plugs/wires/cap/rotor would be a start.

If not that, start checking injectors.

 

Yes check the injectors my car did the same thing and my #3 injector was bad. Start there first.

 

so sounds like if spark is good, then its and injection prob. hopefuly its a spark prob cuz injectors are expensive, thaxs.

 

Ya know, my car is starting to do this on a daily basis. Mine drops REAL low sometimes, almost to the stall point, and then it rebounds back. The effect is almost like jumping on a trampoline: the first bounce is the biggest and then each successive one has less oomph, and then it levels out.

I'll be really pissed if it's an injector, but I don't want to spend $90 to figure out what the cause might be. If it's an injector, this'll be the 3rd time since April 2003 it will have been in the shop getting an injector fixed.

Could a dying battery do this too? I have never changed the battery in 26 months of owning the car, and I have no idea how old it is.

 

If your car is starting fine and there is no delay in starting...it may not be the battery but if you have not changed the battery in a while you might want to do that as well as part of preventive maintenance. Have you had your fuel filter replaced recently? It may just be dirty I would start with the least inexpensive things first. And i'm with ya! those injectors can be real costly.

 

I had the fuel filter replaced almost a year ago (at the same time my car was in for an injector fix the 2nd time in 9 months), so it shouldn't be that. My air filter is fine...a little dirty, but fine.

I'm really starting to think it is an injector. But I'm so strict on the gas I put in, which is Chevron 91 octane. Even using the cleanest gas on the market (so I'm told) I'm having problems. It may just be time to move on to a 4th gen. =\ I don't know if I can take worrying about this injector issue on a yearly basis.

 

the 3rd gen has a problem with injectors, it's well documented.
that's why the normal suggestion , if you are paying someone to do the work, is to do all 6 at one shot.
BTW the VE30 and VQ30 use the same injectors, so don't expect to escape the problem by running to the minivan

 

that happened to my max...timing ended up being off by like crazy...like 10 deg or something like that...i think my t-belt jumped a tooth...then the tensioner pulley ended up breaking off...bent valves...ended up putting in another engine

hopefully yours is an easy fix...i went through everything...maf...plugs...wires...dist. cap and rotor...fuel filter...oil change...ohms checked all injectors...nothing fixed it...well adjusting the timing back to 15 deg did...until the tensioner pulley snapped

good luck...hope you solve the problem

will

 

I had all 6 of my injectors replaced back in April 2003 to the tune of over $1600. The car went back in the shop in February 2004 to replace one of the injectors (free under warranty, though I had to spend $90 get a diagnosis), ironically the injector in the same location as the one that had caused me to replace all 6 months before.

The VQ may use the same injectors, but is the problem widespread on those cars? The only Maxes I ever hear about that have rather widespread injector problems are 3Gs.

 

well 2 things
1. did they use rebuilt injectors?
2. the 3rd gen has a bad rep because of the VG motor and it's absolute garbage injectors the VG didn't get the injector update until 93 the VE had it the whole time.
VEs use maybe 25% of the amount of injectors that the VG does.
the Vq doen't have it reported as a real issue because they aren't as bad as the VG so people accept it as a nissan design flaw, which it is.

 

Well I have a VE with VE injectors, which to my knowledge were replaced with new VE ones when I had the service done. I can't imagine the VG injectors being worse than having to have injector work done 3 times in the span of 2 years.

Now, I'm not positive my current issue is in fact the injectors, but I'm not ruling them out based on past history.

 

It might be the o2 sensor... my car did similar things, and replacing the sensor fixed that (and other) problems.

 

I went with the cheapest fix first. Replaced Distributer cap, rotor, Plug wires, and spark plugs. Hoping this would fix my prob,(did not want to do injector job)

Turns out that fixed my prob, the car is ideling at a steady 700 RPMs, and is running like it was new. Just by one day of driving I think I get better gas milage too.

I used bosh platinum, could not remember wich ones I was supposed to use? does any one remember

 

Good Deal!

 

Agh!! Bosch Plats!! The previous owner installed them on mine...after a while it started running weird.

The worst VG plugs you can get :/ NGK coppers are the best, really.

At least it runs good! Now that you know what the problem was, you'll be better prepped in the future

 

Hey lalo, how much did those items cost you? Perhaps I should do these on my own car.

 

If you really have a '93 SE, you don't have wires, a cap, or a rotor...or even a distributor.

Just plugs. And coil packs.

 

Aw freak. Now I feel like an idiot for not looking at what model he had.

CURSE YOU PULSARDRIVER!

 

The hole thing was under $80 I think: Wires $40, cap $25, rotor $5, sparkplugs 1.90 each (you need 6). autozone sold me 4 and I had to stop what I was doing to go buy the other 2.

Dam platinum bosch, it has not even been a week yet and they are starting to cause probs, rpm needle is jumping at a stop again, , remember NKG, NKG, NKG....

 

NGK NGK NGK

And if the correct plugs don't do the trick, start looking at injectors and 02 sensors and such.

 

I've got the same issues goin on with my 93 SE, and i'm actually hoping its the injectors because i've gone through everything else and i'm at the point where i just want to get it completely fixed, whatever it may be.

Mechanic says injectors are reading fine on voltmeter; should i just have him pull them out and check the spray anyway? He's reluctant on doing it and i'll push him to do it if its a good chance they'll be the problem