Its been about 3 weeks since I installed KYB GR-2s all around. The ride is much tighter, and the cornering is 100x better than before. Also, the sailboat bouncing on the freeway after hitting a small bump is gone.
However the car is a lot more noisy, and the ride is bumpy. Small cracks in the pavement make the car shake, and the vibration can be felt throughout the car.
I only changed the struts, the springs are the same (GXE). And this bumpiness/vinbration problem was not there before. I am thinking that I should take it apart, and put some duct tape around the top and bottom of the springs; the part that makes contact with the strut mount, and the bottom of the strut... what you guys think, what else could it be?????

 

as long as you kept all of the rubber and every thing was in good condition every thing should b e normal. the struts are stiffer than factory, and you were also use to the "sailboat" feeling you had before. i did kyb/ebiach combo on my car from blown factory struts in the back and there was a huge increase in road noise and stiffness, but i think it is all worh it. so to me everything you are experiancing seems normal

 

It will be like that the first 8k. Well come to the Happy gasshocker club... still another 'sixteen weeks' to go.

Want the noise down? Then rip off the jungledrums...






--->explanation is found here: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/17


I also soundproofed the front shock ends... dunno ? if that helps.

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OMG we just learned about that stuff in physics.

Wow, a practical use for that class....

 

I feel smarter now..thanks!

 

wow, 8k miles, well atleast that makes me feel better. Wiking what exactly did you do, to the ends of the rear struts?? take off the rubber boot inside the car, and put some rags in there???
So I guess taping up the top and bottom parts of the springs is not neccessary? atleast not for another 8k ???

 

Replace your strut bearings. My '92 GXE had shaking and vibrations from teeny bumps on the road, and in '94 it got really bad (sounded like the strut to strut tower bolts were loose), and dealer replaced them with new struts (under warranty, the service writer was the coolest guy ever), but I think they kept the bearings because the sound didn't go away. My mom (who used to own the car) had the struts replaced in '96 at local service garage, and they also kept the same bearings. When I did my struts, I got new boots, bearings, and mounts. I have to say that this is the first time that the car drove without the rattling since '94...

By the way, I know some folks think GR-2's are garbage, but I really love them. Ride is really tight, but still forgiving. Perfect for daily driver...

 

Just re-read your post. If it feels like something is loose in the strut assembly, I am almost sure that you have a bad strut bearing. I just did struts on friend's '97 Civic, and he complained that after the new struts, the ride is much better but now there is rattling that resonates all throughout the body and steering wheel. I replaced the strut bearings and mounts, and problem solved.

Had another 3rd gen that also had struts replaced (but owner had it done at SEARS auto). They thought the rattling was from the old worn struts and were disappointed to findout that there is imporved ride with new struts but still the loud rattle. I replaced the strut bearings (but same original mounts), and noise gone...

Wiking maybe right (he knows what he's talking about), but I just have to say that I have new GR-2's and I didn't notice any rattling. Infact, the suspension is quieter, firmer, and just all around nicer than my '01 Pathfinder LE.

 

well i guess I'll give the strut bearings a shot, but they seemed to be ok before changing the struts..

 

If I remember ? right, rear springs had already plastic plates on my maxima. I think that the rubber boot can be filled to damp its vibration. I have taken them off, filled the 'cavity with plush' in 3 different nissans, and I found rear road noises much quieter. Also everythin under the rear window shelf, rear seat, floor mats was filled with two layers of plush pieces (materiel: 'anything' goes). Under the rear seat is a longitudinal 'rigidity adding tunnel' which is a piano cavity; some small piecs of dampening there would be good to cut noise travel, but not too much as it might ? cause rusting.

Any dampening helps. If smtg is glued on metal part, I think that is best. I did glue plush only on A,B, and C pillars, trunk 'roof'.

All depends on the 'new' noise: if its rattling or clonking as pyrophilus says, then there might be mech problem, just as he said. Here one could ask how many miles on u car?

The new shocks are much tighter, and will cause significantly more road noise in the beginning. I did not like at all my shocks for the first "8k" as all small road pebbles 'hit my fingers', but now theyre great. And I have std tires which dampen a lot...

My shocks were uk mail order spanish LIP's, cheap ones as here the stealership has robbed the market with 1500$ maxima shock change: nobody sells front struts to maxima (=cartel). Now total four was like 250$.

Almost every time I have installed, some of the shock end bolts have been left somewhat loose, or have later become loose. That causes sharp clutter only on some roads, snow for example. Thats easy to check, just retighten the nut.

 

95k..............

 

Well, if u buy mercedes, u can have u chassis broken half at that point. But maxima strut bear ings???

If shocks are also 95k, their dampening effect is a nice granpa memory. Maybe that could kill the bearings; I've never driven more than 50k before replacing shocks.