I am going to possibly look at a maxima this weekend. 90 SE auto with tan leather. This girl is trying to just get rid of it. She claims last winter she had new brakes/rotors/axle/plugs/wires/bla/bla/bla put on. There is a problem though with it going in gear.

When i go down i will do the self diagnostics on it that craig B wrote up. But i was wondering if anyone had these exact problems below ever.

it wont go in drive til its warmed up for awhile. goes into reverse pretty easy though she said. sometimes after its been driven it wont go back into drive.

On the auto tranny self diagnostic page, there is like 10 error codes for 10 possible problems, so its gonna be hard for me to gauge how much to fix it. i really just want to be able to drive it back home. but anyway if anyone has had this and could tell me what they did to fix it, that would be great.

 

How many miles on the car? Original tranny? Flush the tranny (drain the fluid and replace the filter) and use lucas's auto transmission fix fluid, that will stopp the tranny from slipping and it will shift smoother

 

my bad, the guy with her on the phone told me the fluid was red. i assumed it was good fluid. but he probably lied or didnt know what he was talking about.

i doubt the guy will let me change the fluid and replace the filter on the thing before i buy it. theres alot of miles on it, but the lady couldnt say how many not even a guess. and she didnt know if it was orig tranny, that probably means yes.

thanks blackmax1992SE.

anyone else got any tips or pointers?

 

bottom line is the tranny will need a rebiuld so if you are not gettign the car for free i wouldnt sugest getting it

silly autos

 

Just did a rebuild. However, my tranny would not shift gears. It would go into first and reverse and that's it. So, here's the big question, what are you willing to invest in a rebuild? My rebuild was 2200.00, and I got the guy to knock about 350.00(cottomans). But, this is what they had to replace:

Planetary gear set was broken
Front case half, because parts were chewing into the old one, plus Park was gone.
Updated valve bodies
torque converter, had pieces of metal lodged in it.
And the typical rebuild stuff, clutches, bands,seals (soft parts)

Maybe yours is not as serious as mine was and it will not be as expensive due to the (hard parts) that had to be replaced.

 

screw it, i was only gonna get the car to part it out, but since its like an hour and a half away, and if i cant get the darn thing up here then its really not worth it.

I thought maybe id have time to sell the parts, but i dont want to be stuck with all that crap, if anyone is in the dayton area, i can give you the number, she told me 300 was all she was looking to get, although im sure she budge a bit.

 

I used the Lucas Trans fix in my GXE and installed a tranny cooler. It kept slipping, but never got any worse over a year of driving (only slipped in O/D going up hills, etc).

The stuff is good, but it wont cure everything..

 

My auto's doing the same thing and this is my second tranny that supposedly has 89k on it. I put 10k on it within the past year. Someone told me that it may be the filter and fluid but I am tired of going through auto issues every year.

 

Maybe the warmup sensor and/or wire is playing games. Bypassing it with a resistor (take connector out and insert 1k resistor) might work. [Never tested that myself...]

 

hello guys,
i decided to ask my question here and not start a new topic since it's kind of related. Probably some of you remember the problem from one of the last topics I posted. When shifting from second to third it takes some time. BUT, as soon as the car warms up, everything is back to normal. Where is this "warm up" sensor and how do I test it if it's good or bad? Also, is it even possible that this might the problem or does it control only the shift to overdrive after a certain temp? Does that Lucas stuff really work? I generaly don't believe in additives but if some of you have had good experience with it I might try it. Thanks again

 

DID u clean your TCU connectors?

--------------------------------------------------------

Temp sensor: Front side.

As I had intermittent [maybe still] lockup problem, I decided to solder a parallel tst connector with TCU. After measurement while driving and cataloging some 16 pins readings, I'll compile a new web page. This week probably, as the new tst connector is already soldered there...

The temp sensor resistance can be measured like follows, pins W&W. (If your problem is intermittent, do not expect to find any problems while car is stationary):

------------------------------------
Solenoids

The solenoid resistances may be measured, on the tranny side, connector opened:
Its got eight pins, numbered the same as in TCU connector.

Tranny side connector pins from left to right, top row first:
1 | 6 | 8 | 7
5 | W| W|none

Resistances measured to ground:
Line pressure. 1 to gnd = 2.5 -5 ohms
Torque converter. 5 to gnd = 10 -20 ohms
Shift solenoid valve A. 6 to gnd = 20 -40 ohms
Shift solenoid valve B. 7 to gnd = 20 -40 ohms
Timing 8 to gnd = 20 -40 ohms
Fluid Temp. W measured against W = 2.5K Ohms Cold

 

very helpful like always...thanks

 

JEEZ!!!! you spent $2200 for a rebuilt? I just bought a used JDM tranny and had it installed for $550 and my car runs like a champ!!!! My other tranny was slipping in and out of gear while it was in D and when i would try to take off, the car would wind up to 4K before finally taking off.
I can't understand why you and other people beleive in rebuilds. I can understand if either way costed about the same. But one route is waaaaay more expensive than the other and in the end, you get the same results.
Oh well, you probably have more money than me anyway and I just hate people that can afford to spend more than me!!!!

 

I could add that too many of the trannyswaps could be bypassed by 0.00$ ! Just by taking care of the computer enviro. But throwing money is good for the national economy... (=love thy taxes)

Hate/envy, if real, eats innards like slipping tranny. Only way to correct it, is to ask its creator to clean/repair the heart's thoughts - heart & head is the drivers 'trannycontroller'...

 

I just had my 91 SE's trans rebuilt for $2,100. This included rebuild, torque converter, new solenoids, two new motor mounts, and a new planetary gear. All parts were verified Nissan OEM. They recalibrated valve body for firmer shifts and I get a 2 year/24,000 mile warranty. I wouldn't have gone any other way. This trans feels strong.

 

Where did you get the jdm tranny? Mines dead and best i've found is 575 used....

 

Why 2200.00 on a rebuild?
1. If the salvage yard gets one around here these idots are talking 1000+ w/ over 100,000 miles .
2.Maxima's have tranny issues why buy someone else's problem with no warranty.
And if they do offer warranty they will swear it was not properly installed when something goes wrong. Or just give you another piece of crap that you will have to pay someone again to install. Unless you have time to do it yourself.

Also, some people actually depend on these cars daily, it's not just a hobby or project car.
I weighed the options, and it just made sense. I firmly believe you get what you pay for! And now my car drives and shifts like a dream.

 

I think the price was ok. And if no other reliable option in sight (tranny under 50k?), that is the way to go. Of course after diagnostics which in maxima means also electronics, TCU etc.

Always used car in top reliable condition is 'four times' its market value. But as said, after your 'investment' its as good as new for some four-to six years...

The sad part of the human investments is its tendency to 'stocks' crash. That is why I try not not put any real money in it, just handiwork. And cannot accept the swap only solution, and claims that maxima tranny is somehow worse as T-fords... its the electronics enviro which is bad, causes slip which shoots the tranny.

We have to remember that the car has to work five years, and we try to extend it over fifteen...

see http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14


.

 

I have a 2001 pathfinder that blew the tranny last year(the AWD wasn't working properly and I think it had something to do with it locking it in 4WD). Anyway, the dealership (this used to be a nice one, incase folks read my other posts of horrible local dealers) service writer (who I knew for last 10 years) told me that they do not rebuild trannies (it was warranty covered). Simply because he has never seen anyone locally who can re-build trannies w/o problems, and he said that getting nissan tech to rebuild a tranny will be too many hours and he said he still coudn't trust them. So I got a (supposedly according to him) a factory-new 2003 transmission installed. My Max hesitates to go into Drive from reverse for 2 seconds in REALLY COLD weather, but I don't think I'll ever get it rebuilt...

I didn't post this to say that people should get new trannies for their J30 Max (do they even have new trannies?) but I posted to say that some places have utter lack of people who can do a decent tranny rebuild...

 

well im gonna post my question here too, since this is all about auto trannys... when i first got the car, my tranny was fine, the dealer even said that it was replaced. But now, its duying on me... when i first start off say a traffic light, it fells like its gonna stall like im driving a manual... like it starts shuddering, feels like the clutch isnt working or something, but i noticed if i give it some more gas, it just spins the wheels... and this only happens if the car is standing still, but if its rolling a bit, then it starts off fine. And, when its shifting from 1st into 2nd, it takes some time, like on a manual when u shift from first to second and dont let go of the clutch after u've shifted and give it some gas, and then let go of the clutch, thats exactly what happens... i think it might be a problem with the transmittion fluid or something, since it feels like theres not enough pressure to get it to shift... ill change my fluid today and see what happens... btw what do i need to change... and wheres that filter located... i never knew there was a filter on the tranny also... nothing in the book about that... or maybe i cant read... anyways, any suggestions?

 

oh and btw, you know how u have that switch for Power/Comfort, i noticed that if i put it in Power, the tranny is working like ****, but if i leave it in the middle, its fine. but the problem is that i noticed that sometimes when i start off and when its supposed to shift from 1st to second, the power light goes on, and its not shifting at all, i just end up reving my engine up to 5k, then having to fiddle with the switch, and then it'll shift... maybe its that module thats giving me problems...

 

That sw uses one resistor to control pressure solenoid (resistor is under air filter). Clean the connectors on the tranny, add very little contact grease tips on each contact. Clean TCU connectors with electronics cleaner: all solenoid power in the tranny are controlled and driven by it via too long cables...

read all from here: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15

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