No heat
No heat
I've got a 90 SE that I bought as a winter driver. The problem is it doesn't throw heat. At best it will throw lukewarm air. I've checked the heater core and it is clean and open. Oddly, if I take the lines off of the heater core and leave them hanging in the engine compartment (straight up) and start the car no coolant comes out. Obviously if there is no coolant flowing, how would the heater core ever heat up, but I don't understand how there couldn't be any flow??? The temp gauge on the dash shows that the engine warms up and I've replaced the thermostat. Any ideas would be appreciated... a winter car without heat really sucks.
Originally Posted by White90
I've got a 90 SE that I bought as a winter driver. The problem is it doesn't throw heat. At best it will throw lukewarm air. I've checked the heater core and it is clean and open. Oddly, if I take the lines off of the heater core and leave them hanging in the engine compartment (straight up) and start the car no coolant comes out. Obviously if there is no coolant flowing, how would the heater core ever heat up, but I don't understand how there couldn't be any flow??? The temp gauge on the dash shows that the engine warms up and I've replaced the thermostat. Any ideas would be appreciated... a winter car without heat really sucks.
Your car is a summercar...
The main water valve is vacuum powered, electronics controlled. Check vacuum & applied voltage to the valve, under the hood... and bleed as said already, for example by driving one hour over 2000rpm while bleed screw ajar.
To get a winter CAr,
see: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/7
.
What is a 39" car?
I don't believe it is the vacuum valve, as that is external to the engine. I have had the hoses that connect to the hard lines on the engine disconnected and there still is no coolant circulating. I really think it is something internal to the block/cooling passages.
I will try bleeding for an extented period of time and see if that helps...
I've looked through the stickies, but still can't come across the one that details the coolant system bleeding. Can someone point me there?
Thanks
I don't believe it is the vacuum valve, as that is external to the engine. I have had the hoses that connect to the hard lines on the engine disconnected and there still is no coolant circulating. I really think it is something internal to the block/cooling passages.
I will try bleeding for an extented period of time and see if that helps...
I've looked through the stickies, but still can't come across the one that details the coolant system bleeding. Can someone point me there?
Thanks
Originally Posted by White90
...I don't believe it is the vacuum valve, as that is external to the engine. I have had the hoses that connect to the hard lines on the engine disconnected and there still is no coolant circulating. I really think it is something internal to the block/cooling passages.
Btw. Youre not the first one telling this. If I understood right, you took the hose off before the valve, and did not get any flow?
Some say that pump blades has been rusted off. But cannot see how that would not result in engine overheating.
Maybe the seal or smtg else is blocking at the thermostat assy?
see also: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/8

.
a 39" car is the early 3rd gen maximas that don't have a bleeder valve, you are supposed to lift the front end of the car 39" up with the radiator cap off and the car running to bleed all of the air out of the system
Originally Posted by yelowd
Has anyone with the no / little heat problem replaced that vacuum valve on the firewall and noticed more heat?
easy bypass tst is to disconnet from the valve, attach the hoses together with a hose joint connector.
Originally Posted by Wiking
Btw. Youre not the first one telling this. If I understood right, you took the hose off before the valve, and did not get any flow?
Some say that pump blades has been rusted off. But cannot see how that would not result in engine overheating.
Some say that pump blades has been rusted off. But cannot see how that would not result in engine overheating.
I will try bleeding the system better once I get the car put back together again (currently apart awaiting injectors). My other option is since the engine is half apart to take the water pump off and inspect. I really didn't want to put this much effort into my winter car, but it is kind of intriguing at the same time. If I don't get it fixed the car is going up for sale... because a winter car without heat is a cold ride!
BTW... 39" raised in the front to bleed the coolant??? Is this for real? That's the craziest thing I have ever heard...
Originally Posted by White90
BTW... 39" raised in the front to bleed the coolant??? Is this for real? That's the craziest thing I have ever heard...
Driving one hose loosened [barely leaking] gives air chance to escape. Needs good circulation 2000rpm or more and some time. But then, u need a working pump.
Originally Posted by White90
BTW... 39" raised in the front to bleed the coolant??? Is this for real? That's the craziest thing I have ever heard...
but that is the actual FACTORY Recommended method for earlier ones.
Originally Posted by internetautomar
only happens on cars where the heater core is higher than the t-stat or radiator cap.
but that is the actual FACTORY Recommended method for earlier ones.
but that is the actual FACTORY Recommended method for earlier ones.
I bet the de signers have been pretty desperate while explaining this to the FSM manual editor... like being totally lost fighting each other on the TPS full open throttle switch -documentation.
had same problem no need to lift 39'' anymore nissan dealers have made a speacial funnel for removing air our of system(friend works for them)drain and refill with funnel and all air is gone. also heater **** can be stuck its a small cylinder shaped mech on firewall net to brake booster pull on a little lever a few times and it should work.
Originally Posted by internetautomar
do you have said "special" funnel in your garage?
Originally Posted by yelowd
9ton RV? Do they even allow such things in europe?
lol. I take it you're not a fan of the EU. That's hilarious that an RV is so rare that you can get it into places that are "bus only". Do people look at you as you drive by? How about the maxima? is that frowned upon with kyoto and everything?
Originally Posted by yelowd
lol. I take it you're not a fan of the EU. That's hilarious that an RV is so rare that you can get it into places that are "bus only". Do people look at you as you drive by? How about the maxima? is that frowned upon with kyoto and everything?
? a fan of the EU. - 70% are against it and its maniac nomenklatura: it tells what shape bananas are allowed, outlaws our lakes for swimming as they are 'too cool' etcetc sick regulations. In fact we were hijacked to this national socialist system [hitler won...] via treason [=most nations constitutions are just unlawfully bypassed]. From common people money earned , 90% ends to the state coffers : love thy taxes... gas is 3x what u pay. The real jobless rate is above 30% (state secret).
? kyoto hoax: we have only one state truth, kyoto is incl because somehow the money ends up to certain accounts at cayman's...
Yes this is maxima forum: maxima is as rare as white elephants, its nice to use auto-kickdown and show the pwr for volvos trying to eh... - its like candid camera...
Its funny how the 90's about 300 maximas were annually sold. Nissan subsidized its price artifically low (about -50%) to get that minimum sold for statistics purposes, but still people did not buy more. As we pay 3x the price of cars in US, the maxima price is about the same, even now. This 'population' base was used by Nissan to test & report their mfg R&D of the cars, as just abour every owner went always to stealeship maintenance regularly.
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