Hey guys, just wondering what everyone used to stop rattling on the rear deck. I know most of you are gonna say just use dynamat or peal n seal etc. But I don't think that will be enough, my rear deck shakes way too much. BTW I'm running 2 12" solo baric L5's in a sealed box, nothing too much but enough bump to extremely shake the deck. I'll be home for winter break next week and was hoping to cover the whole trunk with sound dampening and atleast try to stop the rear deck rattle.

Thanks,
Pat

 

pull the rear deck up and strategically place some small pieces of thin carpet or felt on the places where the deck is rattling against the sheet metal.

dynamat will help, but it won't remove the rattles if you have things bumping into each other and rattling. gluing thin carpet strips back there will fix that.

 

carpet padding works just as well a dynamat and it is only a fraction of he price. gotta get that at home depot or a place like that. but like matt93se said you have to stop the contact where it is. pull out the rear seat and crank up the bass see if you can actually see where it hits

 

Q.: "just wondering what everyone used to stop rattling on the rear deck. "

A.: I told my son to move out. The day he moved, all rattling of our kitchenware was gone...

Btw, he dreamed he was to be the scandinavian winner in pressure contest, his whole volvo was one big bass box = whole rear, one inch thick walled veneer box... Luckily his gearbox exploded, that cooled him somewhat. Granparents promised a better car -if no more music contest- he accepted.


Pls. Do Enjoy, but let others also enjoy. If one's enjoyment deliberately disturbs others, its pure evilness, not enjoyment. Be it in wilderness or at home patio... Somebody joked of my C-cassette. Maybe u know now why its enough for me...
I used to enjoy loudness, now enjoy quietness. Thoughts have clean place to roam. My Maxima is maximized for that purpose: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/17

 

Yeah I completely agree with disturbing others by listening to your music. I always turn my system down in residential areas, stop lights, and at night and usually only have it bumping on highways, etc. Eventually I'll get the whole car sound dampened so you won't barelly be able to know my car is bumpin besides the shakin mirrors, and maybe alittle noise outside but not much. My friend has a car that he has entered in SQ comps and you can't even hear his car outside when hes bumpin at like 120 decibles. I would like my car to be somewhat like that, but first I gotta finish getting everything in, next thing is a good set of comps for the front and a amp for em.

 

My son did not understand or listen. Now ok.

I think getting resonances out is not how thick insulation is, but how clever u are. Critically isntalled glue patches work quite well. Disturbing the expanding sound (energy) wave, be it in metal or air is one of the goals: that causes it to bend and somewhat kill itself as the bends waves meet in opposite phase. The outmost layer should not be able to mechanically touch, plush fabrics 'short hair' is ecellent in that respect.

If the resonances can be felt by finger, then one may find and possibly damp the sound source totally off.

One interesting resonance was in one car antenna (rooftop edge) which started whizling on certain humidity & speed. Like clockwork. Installed a minuscle piece [barely seen] of rubbertape in the middle, that killed response and self amplifying mechanical vawelenght for the antenna.

 

wiking are you like a genius or something man?? everytime you respond to someone you sound so, intelligent, has anyone found key points that need to be padded to suppress the rattles

 

Maybe too maximized [noiseless] thinking area? Should I just add noise to dampen the thoughts off... But didnt the wise men teach that our whole existence in the eleven dimensions is just vibration... Cannot grasp that, but simply, the steel structure is one vibration medium. While vibrating itself, its conducting that energy any place it can. It has certain characteristics, where the form also affects how it plays.

Adding into critical point something which does not fit 'its wavelenght', the noise propagation in metal sheet might become totally killed. Typically the stock 'glued in' dampening panels are too hard and sadly take part in the concert. The better soft mattresses on the other hand are not glued in, contain large holes.

I have no means to verify, but I suspect that superlon (car store sold insulation foam) characteristics does not fit well on the chassis noise wavelenghts. That is because my empirical [=not enough pennies] noise insulation tests show that very thin [two layers of plush] with glue on 30% on the metal, kills absolutely 'all' road noise on chassis.

One example from metallic characteristics of its form: on the 740-series sedan volvo some come with an intermittent clunk noise from rear chassis. Needs certain speed & bump. My friend went mad waiting for next clonk. He later was able to produce the clonk at will by pushing the rear bumper down. No that is easy from dampening point of view: just travel u finger on chassis metal parts as noise is produced. Bingo! I found my spot [the interference wavelenght was killed], noise gone. I bent that metal structure [in trunk above wheel well], with my finger, juts a little. Noise gone. Never been heard since.

Now this what I mean by hitting the sweet spot with some glue. Its easy dumbly to add lots of glue, if that general noise area is known...

 

yea the problem is just finding that spot, may take weeks even months to pinpoint the exact spot though

 

take the deck out and coat the intire underside of it