The car was pretty warm when we did the first run- in red. we spent a few minutes running it on the machine in order to figure out the final drive ratio and such.. once that was done, they did the first run. Max of around 180 ft lb and 165hp...
we let it cool off about 10 min (I couldn't hold my hand to the valve cover it was so hot), and then we got the green numbers.. 190tq and 173hp max.

You can also see the A/F was very rich, at 12.5 the whole time. (thanks, Jim Wolf! ) Mark- SGP's owner dude- said there's usually about 25hp available on an NA Z32 just by installing an SAFC or similar toy and tuning the fuel a bit. He said 20hp more shouldn't be a problem on this car with it.

Just for grins, I had them run one with the VTCs grounded.. even though my car sounds like a deisel when they're unhooked, it's still obviously working!

The Blue run was run shortly after the green one- maybe 5 min. the engine was still cooling down obviously and we gained a bit more torque on the low end, but the high end just died altogether. As soon as the VTCs kicked in/shut off, there was an obvious 10hp loss and it got worse from there. at 6000rpm, there's about 15hp gone and at 6500rpm, there's 20hp gone.


Also keep in mind these numbers are on a Dynapack, and I was told they're about 20 lb and 20hp lower than what you'd see on a dynojet. somehow I don't believe that though, and an article I just looked over in SCC said they were within just a couple points, not 20 off.....

anyway, here's the dyno sheets.




Same thing, only high res:
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/dyno_1_lg.jpg
http://www.mattblehm.com/pics/car/dyno_2_lg.jpg

 

i cant believe some people think that it isnt a significant loss
you can even feel the loss and any time you feel the loss you know its has to be big
i grounded mine for a day and no thank you ill deal with the clacking for now
great work matt its nice that you took the time to get this vtc thing straightened out

kyle

 

That was interesting. So the gas exchange is better [as expected] after 5000rpm with VTC. Torque about 10%max, pwr bit less. I voted earlier for about 5%, but by this its proven to be more in that engine configuration. Yes, I must agree that 8-10% is noticeable and in racing sometimes crucial.

Thanks for the info!

 

nice


......

 

one of these days I'll dyno my cars.
got a guy willing to do $50 for 3 pulls

 

Matt you need to get an adjustable FPR. You could lean out the FP and lean out the AFR as well. Also you might want to try a different intake, something like a short ram instead of the CAI.

 

Pretty sure he is just running the mid-pipe + cone.

 

good numbers...what is the mod list again? i'm out of the loop

 

Mod list? yeesh...

full custom exhaust.... WSP Y pipe, B14 cat (2.5" flanges), greddy back end with magnaflow resonator and muffler
Fidanza flywheel, ACT clutch
ASP underdrive pulley
JWT ECU
Warpspeed WAI.. (midpipe from their CAI + filter)
BlehmCo ground kit
BlehmCo TB spacer
bored out TB and intake manifold

that's it for engine mods....

Ari, I'm looking at getting an SAFC and going to play with it a bit.. maybe take it back up to Mark and let him fiddle with it on the dyno and go from there.
also thinking about borrowing another unmodded 5 spd intake manifold and TB and swap them back out and see how it does against this... I think I might get some high end back.

 

nice numbers when compared to mine the reseblance is strong but you made more power but both pull strong to 6k



since you have more mods than me i bet your numbers would be quite abit higher on a dynojet

 

Did the O2 sensor fall off your exhaust or they drop it in a bucket of gasoline? (or does yours even work?)

your A/F sucks ***** man.. get that thing moved up somehow to lean out the mix, and you'll be putting down numbers similar to mine.

 

well my FP was AT 53psi plus i think with the stock ecu the A/F is really rich anyway. i bet JWT leans it out some

ive got an ADJ FPR now and will be going back shortly to see what happens

 

The only thing is that if you use the SAFC to lean out the AFR by reducing the MAF voltage, you will get less timing advance. Besides it would be so much easier to just bump the FP a few psi than use the SAFC and cheaper. Also if you get a chance we need to get a datalog of your engine too. I know that JWT tunes their ecu's for that 91 **** octane that they have in cali but that AFR is smooth.

I was told that for sr20's that 13.3 AFR was on the edge of reliable vs power and could detonate if the engine was heat soaked. I wish my car's AFR was like yours but its like that only with n2o. Here are my dynos
dyno
dyno AFR

 

if people were making 15-20hp with a simple fuel pressure regulator we would know by now... (right?)
- i think the safc needs too be looked into alot more, if we could really get 20hp from the afc this will be the biggest thing since sliced bread.

 

Just talking about it isn't going to get anything done.

 

Matt how old is your 02? I don't remember if I had my JWT in at my last dyno. But I get great gas mileage. ie.. about 300 mil on 15 gal. And that's mostly commuter and city traffic. (read bad) And my hard arsed driving.

Great #'s though. I'm jealous.

*hint* try putting your stock mid pipe and resonator back in and get back to me. I just did this on Sat.

 

Ari, the JWT was audibly detonating even with 93 octane in the summer here.. I had to dial the base timing back to about 13 in the summer. I've got it back at 15 now while it's still cool outside..

Jeff, the O2 is of questionable age (I replaced it with one off my GXE parts car when I figured the one on the VE was bad... the VG parts car sensor was a year or so old when I swapped.). The simple fact the ECU is maintaing a rock-steady 12.7 on the A/F tells me the sensor is working fine. If not, it would be all over the place.

 

My old one was technically fine also. But when I dyno'd it just read rich also. When I dyno'd again with a new 02, the a/f was much better. I think as the sensor gets old, it tends to go rich or it gets coated etc....

 

possibly just from being coated, or slow response.
Mark said the A/F results were right on track for a JWT ecu, so I'm not too worried about it.
Changing the sensor is just another $100 to throw at the car that's not absolutely necessary.

 

As long as your o2 toggles lean-rich more than 5 times in 10 sec it is fine. What kind of FP are you running and do you have the stock fuel pump or aftermarket? If its aftermarket like walbro then it would bump your FP up by 4-8psi and make the car run rich. I'd like to hook my techtom up to your car and see what kind of readings we get. Your car is making alot of torque but it falls off alot faster than it should. Normally VQ's would dyno around 180whp if they made 190wtq, where as you are only getting 172whp.

BTW: did you add another bung to the Y pipe? If so and you had an AFPR we could use my wideband and tune the AFR to 13.0-13.5 if you wish.

 

you guys need to remember that when the car is at WOT (like when on the dyno) the ECU goes into open loop in which it no longer uses the O2 sensor for A/F correction instead it uses a preset fuel map so the condition of your O2 sensor has nothing to do with it. CPS, engine temp, MAF reading and knock are really the only things the ecu looks at when in open loop AKA WOT

 

you had the JWT on when I was there at Intec probably a year ago (so stock flywheel and clutch, no ground, UDP, old engine and resistor). Did you go again?

I've been thinking about going back to the mid-pipe and stillen filter, I have a feeling my current one is dirty.

 

Good point. Thanks

 

That is true but also you have to consider the A/F self learn as well. If your o2 sensor isn't working properly then once the ecu learns its LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) it will apply it to the open loop maps as a modifier. For example if your ecu has to adjust its preset LTFT by -7%, then it will apply that to the preset WOT LTFT. So the o2 sensor does matter up to a point that is.

I've found that even with my stock o2 unplugged my JWT ecu will maintain a steady 14.4-14.8 AFR during closed loop conditions. But it will run alittle leaner at idle than normal and it drops from 14.5 to 12.8-13.5 AFR quicker depending on engine load x TPS.

 

Nice numbers Matt. Great torque. The safc will help you lean it out some then you should be able to at least inprove them #s by 10hp I would say.

 

Check your temp sensor connections for corrosion. I lost .3sec on the 1/4 mile due to corrosion. Also for the short period of time that I had the JWT ecu and experienced detonation, I finally came to the conclusion that it was the temp sensor.