Fuel Warning Lamp Issue
#1
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Fuel Warning Lamp Issue
The other day, I got stranded because I was waiting for my warning light to come on that tells me I need to fill up, but it never came on and the car died of no fuel. A few minutes ago, I removed the cluster and was observing. Im having trouble understanding what the FSM is trying to say according to checking "Fuel Warning Lamp." I figured it was the bulb itself that is no good... Pulled it out, doesn't seem bad Would there be a way to check if my problem is with the bulb or with some type of connection or something? The FSM says to check the harness I believe, for resistance but I am having trouble understanding which harness it is and how to actually do it.. I know I connect the tester to the battery positive and negative terminals and touch the wires and something is suppose to happen? Would the warning lamp come on after words if some connection is no good?
Basically, Im trying to find out what would be the best way to check if the bulb is no good, or if it's something else. Please excuse me, Im just starting out and trying to learn.
Thanks alot.
Basically, Im trying to find out what would be the best way to check if the bulb is no good, or if it's something else. Please excuse me, Im just starting out and trying to learn.
Thanks alot.
#3
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Originally Posted by DanNY
swap it with a KNOWN working bulb that's next to it. IE swap it out for cruise light or seatbelt.
i'm not going to comment on running the tank dry.
i'm not going to comment on running the tank dry.
And what do you mean you don't wanna comment on me running the tank dry? What, did I decrease the life of my engine by 50% or something?
#4
Originally Posted by Vadim-93GXE
And after I do the swap, I just wait till it's low and see if it lights up? The only way, huh?
And what do you mean you don't wanna comment on me running the tank dry? What, did I decrease the life of my engine by 50% or something?
And what do you mean you don't wanna comment on me running the tank dry? What, did I decrease the life of my engine by 50% or something?
or just not let it run below the 1/4 mark??
oh and if you used the seatbelt light to swap it out and the seat belt light works after the swap then the bulb on the low fuel light works.
#6
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Damn, didn't think of that.
Anyway, great plan. Thanks. Gonna go try it out..
Anyway, great plan. Thanks. Gonna go try it out..
Originally Posted by DanNY
well i guess you can do that again...
or just not let it run below the 1/4 mark??
oh and if you used the seatbelt light to swap it out and the seat belt light works after the swap then the bulb on the low fuel light works.
or just not let it run below the 1/4 mark??
oh and if you used the seatbelt light to swap it out and the seat belt light works after the swap then the bulb on the low fuel light works.
#7
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Yeah, they aren't very accurate. But maybe they are made to just go on and off to convserve bulb life, and you ran out of gas during it's "off" phase?
Originally Posted by internetautomar
my low fuel light only came on once. I still had gas in the tank, and it went off before I ran out of gas. that light is 95% worthless.
#8
Its real bad for your FP and injectors to let the car run out of gas, or even get that close. The gas acts as coolant for the electronics.
Also the switch that turns on the idiot light is located with the fuel pump. The contact on the switch can get a bit fould up. When I upgraded my pump I was able to clean the contact (which are just floating in gas) and then the light actually lite more brightly!
Also the switch that turns on the idiot light is located with the fuel pump. The contact on the switch can get a bit fould up. When I upgraded my pump I was able to clean the contact (which are just floating in gas) and then the light actually lite more brightly!
#10
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Now that I come to think of it, my gas gauge hasn't been very accurate.. It will be under the 1/4 mark, and will still have up to 50 miles of gas left. I was going to ask if there was a way to make this gauge a bit more accurate, but I guess I'll save that for another time. Maybe it has something to do with the warning lamp problem since it's not the bulb.
Speaking of the bulb, with Dan's help I came to the conclusion that the bulb itself is fine.. Next step please? Thanks.
Speaking of the bulb, with Dan's help I came to the conclusion that the bulb itself is fine.. Next step please? Thanks.
Originally Posted by eric93SE
Its real bad for your FP and injectors to let the car run out of gas, or even get that close. The gas acts as coolant for the electronics.
Also the switch that turns on the idiot light is located with the fuel pump. The contact on the switch can get a bit fould up. When I upgraded my pump I was able to clean the contact (which are just floating in gas) and then the light actually lite more brightly!
Also the switch that turns on the idiot light is located with the fuel pump. The contact on the switch can get a bit fould up. When I upgraded my pump I was able to clean the contact (which are just floating in gas) and then the light actually lite more brightly!
#11
Originally Posted by Vadim-93GXE
Now that I come to think of it, my gas gauge hasn't been very accurate.. It will be under the 1/4 mark, and will still have up to 50 miles of gas left. I was going to ask if there was a way to make this gauge a bit more accurate, but I guess I'll save that for another time. Maybe it has something to do with the warning lamp problem since it's not the bulb.
Speaking of the bulb, with Dan's help I came to the conclusion that the bulb itself is fine.. Next step please? Thanks.
Speaking of the bulb, with Dan's help I came to the conclusion that the bulb itself is fine.. Next step please? Thanks.
Others???
Take the measuring resistor assembly off from the tank and play with the lever while watching the lamp. Most propably its the switch [as already indicated...]
#12
Originally Posted by Vadim-93GXE
Now that I come to think of it, my gas gauge hasn't been very accurate.. It will be under the 1/4 mark, and will still have up to 50 miles of gas left. I was going to ask if there was a way to make this gauge a bit more accurate, but I guess I'll save that for another time. Maybe it has something to do with the warning lamp problem since it's not the bulb.
Speaking of the bulb, with Dan's help I came to the conclusion that the bulb itself is fine.. Next step please? Thanks.
Speaking of the bulb, with Dan's help I came to the conclusion that the bulb itself is fine.. Next step please? Thanks.
if you really want to play w/ it then take the sending unit out of the tank w/ the pump and see what's going on. don't blow yourself up.
#13
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Originally Posted by DanNY
the point is that to figure out the light issue it's more trouble than it's worth. why not just keep at least 1/4 tank of gas in the car and you don't ever have to worry about the light?
if you really want to play w/ it then take the sending unit out of the tank w/ the pump and see what's going on. don't blow yourself up.
if you really want to play w/ it then take the sending unit out of the tank w/ the pump and see what's going on. don't blow yourself up.
#16
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Yeah, sounds like a plan, but I'd have to get the light working in the first place. And I really wouldn't have to worry about being 20 miles away from a gas station, since we have one here on every corner.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Um let's say you adjust the float so when the light comes on when there is almost NO gas left. Makes sense right? Right up to the point where you realize you are 20 miles from the nearest gas station.
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09-15-2015 06:47 AM