Any reason to be picky about a battery?
03-11-2005, 07:10 AM
#1
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Any reason to be picky about a battery?
Just spent close to $500 to get my timing belt+water pump done, but now it appears my batery might be dying. It wouldn't start yesterday after school - we took it to checkers, the said it charged quick, and it was holding a charge, but the battery would only charge up to 420cold cranking amps, and it was rated at 5** cold cranking amps. So they charged it, and it ran fine, but said it's likely that it could do that again pretty soon.
I just have a medium amp (about 550w 5 channel), and sometimes park with the radio just barely on for a little while... could I just get any battery, or is there some battery that would work exceptionally well?
I just have a medium amp (about 550w 5 channel), and sometimes park with the radio just barely on for a little while... could I just get any battery, or is there some battery that would work exceptionally well?
03-11-2005, 08:01 AM
#3
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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If you do not have any custom stereo equipment and would like to keep the car for a long time - go for an OEM battery. If you want to keep it for a couple years I'd say go to COSTCO, their's are cheepest ever. If you have lots of Watts to feed then Optima is the way to go.
I personally saw way to many Interstate batteries on a roadside that looked reltively new, to recommend them.
I personally saw way to many Interstate batteries on a roadside that looked reltively new, to recommend them.
03-11-2005, 08:07 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by Tarzan
If you do not have any custom stereo equipment and would like to keep the car for a long time - go for an OEM battery. If you want to keep it for a couple years I'd say go to COSTCO, their's are cheepest ever. If you have lots of Watts to feed then Optima is the way to go.
I personally saw way to many Interstate batteries on a roadside that looked reltively new, to recommend them.
I personally saw way to many Interstate batteries on a roadside that looked reltively new, to recommend them.
)
03-11-2005, 08:42 AM
#5
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And also one thing I was wondering - with the grounding kit, it decreases resistance V=IR R=V/I , so that the bigger the amps, the less resistance in the system. If I bought the grounding kit, but only use a medium/smaller sound system, how powerful of a battery should I get? The optima red top is $109 at autozone, the duralast is like $60..
03-11-2005, 09:28 AM
#6
Originally Posted by doomtoo
And also one thing I was wondering - with the grounding kit, it decreases resistance V=IR R=V/I , so that the bigger the amps, the less resistance in the system. If I bought the grounding kit, but only use a medium/smaller sound system, how powerful of a battery should I get? The optima red top is $109 at autozone, the duralast is like $60..
the standard battery should be fine. the alternator runs the other stuff when the motor is running...battery is more for back up/reserve when that happens.
03-11-2005, 09:46 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by DanNY
not having to get your car towed due to a dead battery = priceless
the standard battery should be fine. the alternator runs the other stuff when the motor is running...battery is more for back up/reserve when that happens.
the standard battery should be fine. the alternator runs the other stuff when the motor is running...battery is more for back up/reserve when that happens.
Cold battery takes charge in only fraction what warm does. So short drives with all tingies on, drains battery, be it whatever... Short drives: Buy batt warmer.
Then, one night, smtg is left on, and batt is dead. In this situ, it is better that the dead batt is cheap. This is what I tend to achieve always: kill my batt. Never again will I buy expensive as my experience says that they die as heroe$, but that is only for north koreans...
03-11-2005, 09:51 AM
#8
Originally Posted by Wiking
Yes, just make sure your charge voltage is above 13.8V. Mine is 14.5-14.7 at the moment.
Cold battery takes charge in only fraction what warm does. So short drives with all tingies on, drains battery, be it whatever... Short drives: Buy batt warmer.
Then, one night, smtg is left on, and batt is dead. In this situ, it is better that the dead batt is cheap. This is what I tend to achieve always: kill my batt. Never again will I buy expensive as my experience says that they die as heroe$, but that is only for north koreans...
Cold battery takes charge in only fraction what warm does. So short drives with all tingies on, drains battery, be it whatever... Short drives: Buy batt warmer.
Then, one night, smtg is left on, and batt is dead. In this situ, it is better that the dead batt is cheap. This is what I tend to achieve always: kill my batt. Never again will I buy expensive as my experience says that they die as heroe$, but that is only for north koreans...
03-11-2005, 09:54 AM
#9
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I've never used one before... but in the past (maybe 4 times), I've accidentally left some of the interior lights on overnight... but for sitting with the radio on for like 3hrs, like 2x a week, would a standard battery be ok with that?
03-11-2005, 10:28 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by DanNY
i personally have an optima red top that's been in the car for over 8 years. drained it a few times and it still starts up perfectly after a charge. have you personally used an optima in the past?
I think one of the bright moments for me was when I 'invented' gnd wire to the alt: probably nonews, but news to me. Happened to measure that fluctuating voltage once upon a time... The oxidized alt destroys batt and voltage reg. Now add on Gnd wire keeps all my oldies running...
doomtoo: its easy calc.
if u have 1amp device, leave it on for a day. 1x24=24amps gone. From full 60Ah batt, that means 60-24=36 left. Now take -20 weather, batt cold after two days, u get only one quarter out: that means 8Ah. Will u start with 8Ah??? Take THAT batt in, warmit (nocharge), and u have that 36Ah back. All is well, letsgo.
For this reason truck drivers always leave some lights on: keep batt warm.
Calc eaxample:
Amps x Volts = Watts
--->60 watt main bulb / 12Volts = 5 Amps per hour is drawn from batt.
Leave lights on: Two headlights plus all others, draws maybe 20Amps
--->60Ah Warm, full Batt is about dead in 2½hrs.
03-11-2005, 08:34 PM
#13
My car came with a Champion spiral cell (similar to an optima) and I have been very happy with it. Two years and zero problems. It was pretty expensive. The receipt was for I think $129, but that was about five years ago.
I had a Wal-Mart Everstart battery in my Celica. I had it in there from the first week I bought it until the engine blew. The battery was around $30 and I drove the car well over 100k miles with it in there. I would still buy a spiral cell battery, if you can afford it.
I had a Wal-Mart Everstart battery in my Celica. I had it in there from the first week I bought it until the engine blew. The battery was around $30 and I drove the car well over 100k miles with it in there. I would still buy a spiral cell battery, if you can afford it.
03-12-2005, 10:46 AM
#14
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I read what you guys have been talkin about, but still havin a bit of trouble understanding. So whats really the difference between the expensive batteries and the cheaper ones? Slower discharge on the expensive batteries, when having the radio on for instance with the engine off? Ultimatly longer life? Why? The "Optima Red" battery that has been the talk of the town for example, whats so special about it...? Thanks.
03-12-2005, 02:40 PM
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 50
with the red top and spiral batteries, they are considered "dry cell " batteries. they require little to no maintence and can handle alot of abuse from draining to jumping. the most common need some type of maintence ie checking fluid levels. if you're running normal and don't have too many "accesories" a regular battery is fine and will cost you alot less. if you plan on stereo upgrades and the like a dry cell red top is your way to go. hopoe this helped some.
03-12-2005, 03:15 PM
#16
the yellow top is esentally the same as the red top, but deep cycle. the optimas are great because they are completley sealed. they can be mounted in any direction. resista vibration alot better and the yellow will take more abuse than the red. less cca's but mor ca's (i think thats it, but i cant read the #'s on mine)
06-04-2005, 03:37 PM
#18
Originally Posted by bvtran
anyone got a Red Top model number that fits our ride, 3rd gen cuz pepboys catalog didn't listed them, neither does any autostores?
06-04-2005, 08:47 PM
#19
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 88
If you don't go optima then get the walmart everstart. It is the same battery as Autozones and Diehard because they are all made by Johnson controls. Don't get the advance auto battery which is made by gmb(something like that) because they suck and they give you such a hard time to replace battery under warranty.
06-05-2005, 05:22 AM
#20
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Location: EU Scandinavia
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My 6 months old Varta batt just died. I suppose this was the reason (See pic), or then condesator /grounding at the gnd wire alternator end. Bought new 28€ batt... now constant 14.0-14.2V charge. The 14.7V mentioned earlier was bs.=just dont buy voltage gauge toys... clic: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/10
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