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knock sensor and harness replacement

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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 11:17 AM
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knock sensor and harness replacement

is this something that can be replaced by the average person with novice mechanical skills or should i take it to a mechanic? If i do, how much should i expect to pay?
Old Mar 14, 2005 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MONSTERMAX
is this something that can be replaced by the average person with novice mechanical skills or should i take it to a mechanic? If i do, how much should i expect to pay?

Look at the write up and see if its something you want to try. No one else can determin your skill.

That being said its not hard but my idea of easy can be considered hard by others.

The article is here
Old Mar 14, 2005 | 12:28 PM
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I think mine needs to be done.
I'll verify with the resistor first though.
Old Mar 14, 2005 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
I think mine needs to be done.
I'll verify with the resistor first though.

Interautomart, The resistor is in no way the proper method of testing the KS. All you need is an ohm meter. Disconect the sub harness, with the half that goes to the KS in hand, prob each terminal to a ground (one terminal should give no reading because its just sheilding). Anything over 0.5 Meg Ohms, is bad. Mine was 5 Meg Ohms.
Old Mar 14, 2005 | 05:44 PM
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I know that, but it's a cheap dangerous way to test and tide me over until I can afford a sensor and to have it done.
Old Mar 15, 2005 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MONSTERMAX
is this something that can be replaced by the average person with novice mechanical skills or should i take it to a mechanic? If i do, how much should i expect to pay?

Its a good amount of work. A lot of steps, but nothing too difficult. If you have the time and tools, then yeah. The lower intake manifold has gaskets that are expensive (at least $50 a piece) and must be replaced, I'd be afraid to watch a chop job mechanic do that part. When removing the fuel rails, first measure the length of the hoses, then just cut them in the middle (they should be replaced anyway) that makes it quicker and you won't be tugging away on the hoses and possibly bending any of the pipping.


This would also be the right time to test/replace the injectors, or atleast remove them and clean the filter screans on the injectors. As long as the resistance is withing spec and the filter screen is not plugged shut then they should still be fine.
Old Mar 15, 2005 | 01:31 PM
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http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...k_sensor.shtml
^^ answer
Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by eric93SE
Interautomart, The resistor is in no way the proper method of testing the KS. ....
Btw. Using resistor is the ONLY way to make sure. Or swap in new.

Ohm measurement gives only ONE worthless point in time when it might be ok. And that blip is not really when the car is running on highway... The tingie is a piezo element under pressure; its properties vary during hot/cold/vibration/millisecond scale.

Ohm measurement does not show readings on any of those conditions.

And IT IS NOT dangerous. The humankind motors have lived 100years with that stupid KS. And that time passed without problems. Needs simply high octane gas.
The car owners problems started as computers plus KS minded designers got their stupidities connected together...

edit: having said this, the Consult nissan troubleshoot widget might be able to detect ign retard, based on bad knock sensor data signal. Dunno; based on FSM illustration, seems to be quite cheap playstation.
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