OnTheRoad

I have a new Nissan tranny -- or 5,000 miles on it. Do I need to flush out before changing over to synthetic. Jippy lube will do it on their flushing machine but need 12 to 15 quarts of the syn $$$ and $20 for using their machine. One of the local tranny said just pull the drain plug and put in 4 or 5 qt. That's how he changes the fluid. Since Nissan metal screen is on top with no access, except by flushing what way is good for a 5K mile tranny?

OTR

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't recommend the drain and fill method, it will leave you with about 50/50 mixture between the two. Pulling the plug only drains 3-4qts but when I had drop my VB it took about 8-9qts to refill. Why didn't you refill with synthetic when the tranny was install, is it best to break in the tranny with regular ATF?

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

the ve holds about 10qt of tranny fluid, whenever i change the fluid i get about 5.5 out of it. if you change the fluid once you will replace 50%, then do it again and it'll be 75% syn. that will be a good way to go. then sometime in the future do it again.
A while back I called redline and they told me that this was a good way to go.
I hope your adding a tranny cooler, or replacing the stock radiator to protect the life of your new tranny.

OnTheRoad

Nissan dealer installed a new Nissan radiator($400) saying they would not honor the warranty without a new one added. They reused the old antifreeze and shifting bushings @#$#@#. There by increasing the labor charge to reuse the antifreeze and requiring me to replay labor for changing the worn bushings ($2 parts and 45 mins. labor) and for new antifreeze plus labor. The tranny came with the ATF inside. The ATF was reddish brown and smell like a burnt resisistor or brake pad. After about a week the smell when away. Nissan also didnot honor their 10% off on your next service coupon.

Is there a drain for the torque converter? After a complete change, do you replace 5 qt. every 30K miles? I've been told Castrol synth. is the best, but can't find anything other than Pennzoil ATF where I live (in the sticks).

How do you tell if the ATF is synthetic or Dyno juice? There a lot of confusing with real 100% synthetic and premium oil with synthetics. Lots of mech. here think the latter is 100% synthetic.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunatly the torque converter does not have an accessible drain. So yes after a full change in 30k (or maybe even a bit sooner) do another 5 qt drain and fill.
As for where to buy synth. ATF you either have to find a speed shop or buy online. I'm about to do some work on my tranny ( cooler, transgo VB shift kit, new stainer and piolet filter, flush the radiators' tranny cooler with kerosene to remove the build up ) Since I'm going to do all this I've decided to go with synth. ATF (Now I've got to return the regular ATF I just bought). So I got a free shipping coupon from Carparts.com and they carry royal Purple synthetic ATF at a good price $7/QT, 77/12QT the second deal gets you one QT free. I wanted to buy redline ATF, but any synth. ATF should work well.
If the stuff in your tranny is brown and smells burnt then definitly change it (new tranny fluid is blood red)

Tick Tock

I have run synthetic now for about 30K miles and just did another flush (machine) yesterday. The full rebuild capacity on this trans. according to the factory service manual is 7 7/8 qts. Most machines require 15 qts. I would fill the machine to capacity to maximize the flush benefit.

I run Mobil 1 ATF and pay a between $4 and $5/qt depending where I buy it. I paid $4.29 yesterday.

Hope that helps...

OnTheRoad

Where did you get it for $4.29?

Usually there is a lot of metal shaving with a new transmission. Will the flush/fill method get rid of this metal? I removing the plug, do you have access to the magnet to wipe off the metal?

Tick Tock

Got it at Bumper to Bumper. Most places it's $4.97 or so.

brubenstein

When changing fluid I pull the plug first to clean the magnet and get out the fluid below the pickup. Then I refill, dissconnect the return line, and begin the pump/refill stage. Another reason I perfer to do this myself.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

How do you put the fluid back in?

Do you tube off the aft end of the return line (i.e. does it "suck" the fluid in using a tube), or do you just refill the old fashioned way through the McDonald's straw?

brubenstein

The straw. There's no suction on the transmission side of the return line. Everything on the transmission is push, no pull. I just pump 2 quarts, shut it off, refill, pump 2 more, etc., and keep going until the fluid is clean, or I'm out of new fluid. Attaching a piece of clear tubing makes it easier to do and see the color of the fluid. Too bad Tygon tubing can't take the heat and pressure to leave it attached all the time to see how the fluid looks.