doomtoo

I've been working on making my own grounding kit... just becuase I wanted to use one with 4 AWG wire instead of 8. I've searched around the net, and I've found places where people ground out the negative - anywhere from 4 to 11 spots! Not to helpful info on which ones work the best, but I found that the throttle body ground is almost always used, and it's also plainly visible on my car.

While down at autozone yesterday, looking for copper ends for the wire, I found battery upgrade kits! They range from 4 AWG wire for $6.99 to 2 for 8.99.

It might be worth trying to ground one of these from your battery to the throttle body... Thats the only one I've put in so far, and I really noticed a difference! (not like sports car, but seems to run through the gears a little quicker, and shift slightly better). There might be a more efficient ground point, I'm going to try multiple as I find them, but it seems like a "inexpensive" DIY for a basic ground.....

Just a suggestion-

goon9

iTrader: (13)

Good deal. All you need to do if look at a wire diagram to figure out where EVERY ground is. Just make sure to use high end connectors on a large surface, other wise the 4gauge won't be effective.

doomtoo

You wouldn't happen to know where a wiring diagram for the engine bay would be ? I was just going to search around, find ground points, test to make sure... but if I allready knew where they were, it'd ake things easier
O:-)

~thanks

Wiking

Making u own makes testing cheap. Wire thickness is irrelevant, currents are minuscle, one hairthin wire could be used to ground any electron charges.

TB? What could that achieve, pls gimme the factual physics behind. Then give us numbers, not feelings:
- Give your TB ohms reading to the engine gnd, with/without wire
- then u accelaration with/without that wire...
Still sceptical: What could ever cause any charge buildup in TB?

Rotating metallic masses always create electricity; one critical issue is VG distributor that contains high voltage rotator and steel axles alongside angle sensor in one not so well grounded assy. That gnd has to work; the std pin is nogood.

Use contact grease between contact surfaces.

doomtoo

Actually, my ohm meter isn't sensitive enough (it's a cheap one). I couldn't get an resitance reading before - just rounded to none. I think the reason why it does work, is just the amount of metal it cuts out, which gets closer to some of the sensors / other devices using electricity/ running depending on it's internal resistance. There's probably a better place to ground it, which will shorten down the amount of metal between it even more signifigantly, but it seems to do a much better job there than the stock wire (and is actually on top of the stock ground wire, so the nissan engineers most likely found an advantage to grounding there, and hopefully their decision was not too dependent on price)

Wiking

Cannot get u explanation. Snake oil hlps always, no arguing.

Anyways, dont get me wrong: grounding has to exist, well done in star fashion. --->Star center connected to zero potential. Never to be mixed with electronics gnd [xpe]. How TB could become charged needing grounding, cannot figure out. Test and give acceleration data, please.

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