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shift solenoids on a VE

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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 11:43 AM
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shift solenoids on a VE

well i finally finished my overhaul on the SE, looks pretty good and gets up well. but i have one nagging issue. while cruising on the high way (and this only happens at higher speeds, 40 mph+) the transmission (AT - last time i buy one!) disengages the gear and the RPM go racing, after 1-2 seconds, it reengages 4th gear... smoothly, but its annoying as hell! happens once a minute or more.
i was wondering if it were the shift solenoids, I don't have any diagnostic equipment to check the resistance, but I thought maybe I'd just replace the solenoid...

- would it be the lock-up solenoid? or one of the two shift solenoids? (A+B)
- i thought it might also be overdrive engages without being prompted, but it feels more like it has shifted into neutral.

i know this is going to be a real ***** - wiking you know this stuff pretty well dont you?
thanks
tom
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 11:50 AM
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Maybe a valvebody problem or clutchpack problem.......Thats all I could think of, wiking should know.
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 03:17 PM
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It might be just you shifter bushings. there is one at both ends of the cable (nylon) they usually break and fall of the car. there is one where the cable meets the tranny and one above the cat. convertor heat shield. It sounds like your just falling out of gear, then re-engaging.


edit: BTW the tranny solenoids are in a pack and goes for around $130 or so, pretty cheap if you ask me. I've been wanted to replace mine just for the heck of it, but haven't had any other reasons to drop the pan.
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 06:39 PM
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that's interesting - i know the bushing below the shifter is gone due to having to 'pull' the shifter back further to engage... but i tried holding it back and had no results... the other end, is a bushing i have not messed with before - i will check it out - thanks.
tom
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Minty91GXE
that's interesting - i know the bushing below the shifter is gone due to having to 'pull' the shifter back further to engage... but i tried holding it back and had no results... the other end, is a bushing i have not messed with before - i will check it out - thanks.
tom
replace both of them, its like $4 or so. when you buy them, just to let you know they are different, the one under the shifter is bigger.
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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I bought a solenoid pack back in the fall after running the self-diagnostics. I want to install it soon. How easy is it to do this? Also, I have a small leak that drips onto the driver side CV boot while it is rotating. This creates a BIG mess. Any idea what seal is up there leaking? Diagnosing the leak has been an ongoing issue, and I don't want to drop the tranny unless I have to.
Old Apr 13, 2005 | 10:23 AM
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well i ran the auto diagnostic and came up with 10 even blinks, no indication of anything wrong with the solenoids. i rechecked the trans. fluid and it was a little low... but low enough to do that? i dont know. i'll find out eventually
Old Apr 13, 2005 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by maxitech
I bought a solenoid pack back in the fall after running the self-diagnostics. I want to install it soon. How easy is it to do this? Also, I have a small leak that drips onto the driver side CV boot while it is rotating. This creates a BIG mess. Any idea what seal is up there leaking? Diagnosing the leak has been an ongoing issue, and I don't want to drop the tranny unless I have to.
The leak is the rear main seal (I think at least), and the tranny has to be dropped . Never had a leak there (Knock on wood).


On the VE tranny the solenoid pack is pretty easy. You just need to make sure everything goes back, for instance the spring in the line pressure solenoid. One max member (candyman) if I remember corectly forgot it and burned out his tranny. It is rather difficult to get the soleoids to sit in place since its a tight fit and care needs to be taken to not cut any of the o-rings. Did the solenoid pack come with new o-rings??? If not, you will need new o-rings.
Old Apr 14, 2005 | 06:36 AM
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Thanks for the advice. Is there much of a difference between the VE auto and the VG? Mine is a VG.
Old Apr 14, 2005 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by maxitech
Thanks for the advice. Is there much of a difference between the VE auto and the VG? Mine is a VG.
The tranny has its id number, check what u have. Suppose www.autozone.com has its location shown.

VE tranny is totally different from VG, its more robust with bigger oil capacity etc. I suppose the cotrl box TCU is the same ? but dunno really.

Somebody said I know the trannys. That is untrue, but electronics is my specialty. The tranny ctrl has lots of that... Never even opened a AT myself, well dropped and changed seals on a rambler... Anyways, check and clean the contacts. =ALL.

Edit:
- Check the bushings as suggested above
- check oil color and replace as/if necessary. Low oil will surely drop tranny off and cause oil /cavitation &tranny wear
- check groundings (all, esp. TCU gnd)
- check overall voltage level at TCU
see: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15
Old Apr 14, 2005 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by maxitech
Thanks for the advice. Is there much of a difference between the VE auto and the VG? Mine is a VG.
yes, the VG got a RE4F02A and the VE has an RE4F04V (higher torque capacity) the VE trans was used behind the VQ as well, BUT they are not Physically interchangeable (different bolt patterns IIRC)
Old Apr 15, 2005 | 08:34 PM
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I don't think I want to f#@$ with an auto tranny, too complicated. Any idea of how much it would cost to replace the rear main seal and solenoid pack (already have it).
Old Apr 16, 2005 | 05:41 AM
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do a 5 speed swap....
Old Apr 16, 2005 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by maxitech
I don't think I want to f#@$ with an auto tranny, too complicated. Any idea of how much it would cost to replace the rear main seal and solenoid pack (already have it).

I'd say $700, even with your parts. Makes you wanna live with the leak, huh
Old Apr 16, 2005 | 10:07 AM
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Holy Hell!!!!!!!
Are you trying to tell me that one lousy seal and labor would total $700? I'll drop it myself for that price.
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