VG UDP Installed.
04-12-2005, 07:56 PM
#1
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 511
VG UDP Installed.
Got this used off jaemax! It was in great shape. He sent me belts, udp, and a new crank seal.
Jaemax sent me a new crank seal along with it, but i couldn't figure out where in the he11 it went. plus the crank isn't leaking so i think im ok for now.
EDIT: yes it is very dirty
Probly because my dad was in the car I only noticed a slight gain. However the throttle was much more responsive and the rpms jumped really quick.
PS. Waiting for my wiring harness to get hear so i can install my e36 headlights.
Jaemax sent me a new crank seal along with it, but i couldn't figure out where in the he11 it went. plus the crank isn't leaking so i think im ok for now.
EDIT: yes it is very dirty
Probly because my dad was in the car I only noticed a slight gain. However the throttle was much more responsive and the rpms jumped really quick.
PS. Waiting for my wiring harness to get hear so i can install my e36 headlights.
04-12-2005, 11:16 PM
#3
its in there, its hard to get at cause you have to essentially pry it out without scratching the metal around it. my original lasted 9 years, in the south, decatur, GA - no rust... hope you had yours replaced at some point - if so, you're probably good for a few years.
04-12-2005, 11:29 PM
#4
black, nice. i ordered black and they sent me red... red is not black 
i got flamed for this before - but a mechanic told me that you could (remove the battery connections) pour water into the #1 cylinder, or whichever cylinder is down and about to go into the fuel/air compression phase.
screw the spark p back in. the crank won't turn over, and the piston cant hit the valves.
i did it myself, before i was warned against it, (while doing timing belt and UDP at same time) and it worked really well. got the crank on to the specified trq. - unscrewed the #1 spark p and turned it over once more by hand and SHOOSH the engine squirted a long stream of water right in my face. i got a vacuum cleaner with skinny extention i taped on, vacuumed out the remaining water, gave it some time to dry and it was perfect.
who knows, maybe its not a bad way - i'm just putting it out there to see again.
i got flamed for this before - but a mechanic told me that you could (remove the battery connections) pour water into the #1 cylinder, or whichever cylinder is down and about to go into the fuel/air compression phase.
screw the spark p back in. the crank won't turn over, and the piston cant hit the valves.
i did it myself, before i was warned against it, (while doing timing belt and UDP at same time) and it worked really well. got the crank on to the specified trq. - unscrewed the #1 spark p and turned it over once more by hand and SHOOSH the engine squirted a long stream of water right in my face. i got a vacuum cleaner with skinny extention i taped on, vacuumed out the remaining water, gave it some time to dry and it was perfect.
who knows, maybe its not a bad way - i'm just putting it out there to see again.
04-13-2005, 11:59 AM
#10
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 511
i used liquid wrench and an impact wrench to get it out. After a couple of minutes of soaking it came out easily.
***. Im to lazy to go back and do that now. it looked good for now, hopefully ill be ok.
Originally Posted by DanNY
umm you ladies do realize that the crank seal is BEHIND the timing gear. that means you'll need to remove the t-belt, the lower t-gear, and the backer plate to get the crank seal.
04-13-2005, 05:01 PM
#11
Originally Posted by DanNY
impact wrench...10 seconds and it's out.
I dont have an impact wrench..how about this method: attach a breaker bar to the bolt, and then cranking the engine while the bar is on the ground..
would that work??
04-13-2005, 05:06 PM
#12
Originally Posted by aminus21
I dont have an impact wrench..how about this method: attach a breaker bar to the bolt, and then cranking the engine while the bar is on the ground..
would that work??
would that work??
04-13-2005, 05:19 PM
#14
like as in you crank the motor, the breaker bar slips under the torque, and you impail yourself. You may not hurt yourself since you'd be inside turned the key, but there is a possibility of messing something up. If you do try it, post the results, because I may do it too 
.
.
04-13-2005, 05:22 PM
#15
Originally Posted by aminus21
health insurance????? plz explain..
Use Jeff's idea. Please. It's safer.
04-13-2005, 10:39 PM
#19
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 511
Yeah i felt a slight gain, but nothing like what i got from my ypipe. The rpms do rev much faster, and they drop a lot quicker also. It was 92 degrees outside today and i ran the ac, couldn't even notice a loss; it was still very cold. The washer behind the bolt makes it look like the udp wobbles, kinda frightening at first.
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