is our stock timing set to 10 or 15 degrees? I cant remember...I have a chip ready to install and the chip comes with advanted timing, so i need to time back to original timing...its on the vg30e

 

where did you get this "chip" from?

 

15 deg, +/- 2 at 750RPM +/- 50

 

its not the actuall ecu upgrade chip...it is a g-box adjusted for timing and fuel curve at WOT

 

Uh oh. I suggest you return this thing asap
http://gbox.20megsfree.com/custom.html

 

i see nothing wrong with this chip...this is probabally the best chip on the market for our car

 

People have to live and learn I guess.

 

As you say..............

Anybody posting gains (?!) for all possible applications in a single table with only 6 entries certainly doesnt know what he is talking about...............

Anybody know what exactly this wonderful little box with only 4 wires that Nissan coulndt design is supposed to do and where it gets connected to (if at all!) - perhaps its only a little box filled with Helium that you chuck in the engine compartment and therefore effects a weight reduction by its mere presence

 

That little G-box, is G-hetto. Whats inside that little box of whatnots is little resistors that tell your ECU that the engine is getting cold air so it gives it a richer fuel mixture (hence the fuel curve claim). I was a sucker and bought one of those resistor "chips" once, back when I was very very ignorant (now I'm just semi-ignorant). When i put it in, and revved the gas using the throttle body, i could tell an advance in timing, but when i drove it, it was hardly noticeable if at all (made the car sound slightly different though). I would save my 60 bucks and buy the blehmco ground wires or even an ebay CAI, you'd probly achieve better results, even power wise with one of those.

 

bummer was hoping it was a decent chip....bout to install and find out....their site had posted dyno charts showing gains of anywhere from 10 to 20 hp

 

Nissans have to fill all regulations. The boxmakers have not such reponsibilities: I do think that getting richer mixture possibly gives some hp gains compared to lean stock ECU settings. But I would not use all the time such richer setting.

Maybe one should add an extra swith to TB [max open position], and route this "miracle box" wiring through it. This would allow richer mixture only on full throttle... There are many ways to ticle ECU to give richer mixture, at no cost. Dunno really if this box will satisfy user along salesmen?

 

At WOT, the ecu goes into open loop mode. Which is rich already.

 

Right, Maxes run overly reach IMHO. It's clear from the exhaust tip forefinger test.

 

Hmm yes. My finger comes out blk from that tst. How about yours?

In the carb oldies I was used to white/yel nice burnup pipecolor, but never have got that in maxima, even on some 30mpg long trips does not happen...

 

white/yellowish = lean
black = rich.

and I sure as hell hope that you meant spark plugs and not exhaust tips.

-5 to -7% correction on the SAFC-2 makes some nice power though

 

why?


..... Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters.

 

pretty lean if your exhaust tip is white, must be a pretty strong engine or something. Or a high sulfer gas or something.

 

If the car runs richer than stock, wouldn't you lose power? I was under the impression that you want to keep N/A engines fairly lean for the most power. I suppose every car is different though as to what it likes.

 

I suppose geneRally stock car settings aim to be best mpg along with emissions, and that is achieved on the leaner side. Getting richer ensures full ignition (on all parts of the cylinder), although fills engine with soot. That is also why cold engine 'is given more' than hot engine: injection evaporation is more evenly distributed into hot intake air.

(Some direct injection engines 'are filled' with so lean mixture that only adding some extra richer mix around sparkplug, will 'get the whole cylinder' to ignite.)

 

At WOT, the ecu goes into open loop. WOT fuel maps are rich to keep the EGT down and to protect against lean burn detonation.

Cold starts are rich to help keep the car running as cold engines need more fuel. Also richer cold starts help heat the cat faster. That's why cats burn out fast if you continuely run the engine rich.

 

Back on topic (sort of) , if I advanced my CPS and I accidentaly put in, for instance 89 octance gas, that would cause the timing to retard, right?
If yes, the next time I put in 93 octance gas will I gain back that timing? Or do I have to again advance it? Or maybe there is a way to reset the timing?
The reason I am asking is because if the only solution is to advance it more, then eventually I won't be able to because it won't turn anymore. The CPS can only turn so many degrees until it stops.

 

Not by default no - its going to depend on your particular driving style and if the KS detects any knock.The way I see and read the contents of the FSM on the ignition mapping system and its associated inputs is this :

If knock gets detected timing is retarded - still have not been able to get a definitive answer on exactly by how much.
Switching ignition off, causes the ECU to revert to stock timing curves - if knock is again detected timing will again be retarded.
Cycle continues until you feed the motor gas of sufficient quality to not cause the KS to see knock and effect a timing retard at which stage your "static advanced timing setting via the cps" no longer causes the KS to see knock...........The only solution to what?

 

If the only way to get the timing back was to advance it because the knock sensor retarded it. But according to you everytime you turn off the car the timing gets reset.

 

Well - my comment is based on experience and reactions seen with the ECU and KS on the Maxima - it also tallies with the contents of the FSM.

If you have indeed gone and advanced the static timing before getting the bad gas, and then again after having filled with the correct fuel grade - ie - on top of your initial extra advance, you may very well be in a situation where at idle and non-power lugging already there may be knock detectable - hence the situation where you reach a maximum static advance possible with the cps fighting with the KS's input ........................ this situation cannot possibly be good for either economy or power if you think about it.

My advice would be to check your ECU for any codes and reset it manually and then ensure you set the static timing to factory specs before a lot of misery comes your wayCorrect - but if you choose to screw around with the timing and cause intentional knock, the KS is going to see that and cause the ECU to try and prevent stupidity wrecking the engine...........

 

will it still knock with an even higher octane gas like 110, if I advanced the timing?

 

well this chip is only active at WOT

 

My timing is advanted 8 degress i dont knock at all with 93 octane

 

Nobody can say for sure because its highly dependent on your motor's mechanical condition, state of tune etc and especially on your driving habits - IE - do you often go WOT at low RPMs .............. all of that while assuming you have a correctly functioning KS

110 Gas is not the answer here - sanity is.

You need to get the correct gas in the tank and the timing stock standard while the motor is in good state of tune - only from there on-wards can you make intelligent static timing changes

 

Says who?

Have you got a link to a site where the connection details of the box is given (or can you give it?).

 

says it on the paper work they sent with the instructions

 

even if some reason it was always on i could make an override switch

 

i mean my engine is much leaner anyways from my headers so..................yeah

 

Eh? ................

So I gather you are also located in a country where the Maxima runs whithout a O2 like I am here in South Africa?

Have you got a link to a site where the connection details of the box is given (or can you give it?).

 

i was just being a smart azz....actually i will take a photo of the instuctions that say it,,,,
it is detailed with the part i just recieved on paper....i will post it tomarrow

 

wow u dont have to have a o2 there?

 

the connection has to be cut between the ecu and the IAT Sensor

 

IAT Sensor?

 

Intake Air Temperature located at the throttle body

 

basically when the engine compartment heats up the ecu loses accuracy and the chip corrects it

 

IAT on the Maxima in the TB?