I'm having a hard time figuring out what could be the problem. Let me explain since last sat my front brakes have been locking up on me. I figured that the caliper piston was getting stuck so I replaced both calipers along with brake line hoses and rotors. Yes I did bleed the brakes but I'm still having the same problem. I actually have to pull over and relieve pressure at bleed screw on the front wheels. Master cylinder is the only part that I havn't replaced. Please give me some input. Thanks mj

 

wrong pads

 

how can that be when new pads are the exact replacement as the old ones. Forgot to mention I replaced front brake pads as well.

 

have em checked for sure

 

You have abs?? I could well be the master cylinder. I've not heard of this particular problem though.

 

Yeh me either this is real strange. I don't have abs. The master cylinder is probably a year old. It was someting else seeing the rotors glowing from all that heat.

 

well Im thinkin that since you said that the master cylinder was replaced that who ever replaced it did not adjust the pushrod on the booster correctly. If they did not adjust it correctly with an H-gauge, then the pushrod could be out too far and possibly self applying the brakes. Something to try and see if that is what it is would be to loosen the nuts on the master cylinder bolts and if the master cylinder pops out away from the booster as you loosen the nuts, then its likely that a misadjusted pushrod is the problem. Give it a try and see how it works out. Good luck

 

did you get bare calipers or loaded calipers?

 

what is the difference?? I paid 18.00 for them@ discount auto, so I'm guessing bare calipers.

 

whoops my bad I paid 38.00 for caliper.

 

bare is just the caliper itself.
loaded comes with the bracket, new hardware, and pads.
I prefer loade because it makes life so much easier, especially on cars that have slides on the caliper (most cars)

 

ive been wondering what are the best type o pads to get?

 

depends on your driving habits.
a lot of people recommend the axxis Metal Masters (which of course I sell)

 

What about with cross drilled slotted?

 

The best type of pads to get to get the best stopping power would be pads with a coefficient of friction rating of HH or more. The SAE uses these codes on the sides of brake shoes and pads to describe the....well the coefficient of friction of the material. For instance if you get a set of pads with a rating of CC or something that early in the alphabet, then the stopping power is less than say a set of pads with a rating of EE or FF because of the amounts of metal in the material. The first letter is the rating when pad or shoe is cold and the second is rating when hot. There are mixed letters, like EF and whatnot. So basically its kinda like the further down the alphabet you go then the better the stopping power. Although, the further down you go then the more material you use, so youll go through pads with an EE or FF rating quicker than a set with a CC or CD rating.

 

When you changed the calipers, did you grease the slide pins that the calipers attach to? If not, they might be stuck and the pads would drag against the rotor.