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Old 04-22-2005, 03:19 PM
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brakes

I'm having a hard time figuring out what could be the problem. Let me explain since last sat my front brakes have been locking up on me. I figured that the caliper piston was getting stuck so I replaced both calipers along with brake line hoses and rotors. Yes I did bleed the brakes but I'm still having the same problem. I actually have to pull over and relieve pressure at bleed screw on the front wheels. Master cylinder is the only part that I havn't replaced. Please give me some input. Thanks mj
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:22 PM
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wrong pads
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:37 PM
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how can that be when new pads are the exact replacement as the old ones. Forgot to mention I replaced front brake pads as well.
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:40 PM
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have em checked for sure
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:50 PM
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I'm needing a caw
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You have abs?? I could well be the master cylinder. I've not heard of this particular problem though.
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:57 PM
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Yeh me either this is real strange. I don't have abs. The master cylinder is probably a year old. It was someting else seeing the rotors glowing from all that heat.
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Old 04-22-2005, 05:43 PM
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well Im thinkin that since you said that the master cylinder was replaced that who ever replaced it did not adjust the pushrod on the booster correctly. If they did not adjust it correctly with an H-gauge, then the pushrod could be out too far and possibly self applying the brakes. Something to try and see if that is what it is would be to loosen the nuts on the master cylinder bolts and if the master cylinder pops out away from the booster as you loosen the nuts, then its likely that a misadjusted pushrod is the problem. Give it a try and see how it works out. Good luck
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Old 04-25-2005, 06:59 PM
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mod or sell?
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did you get bare calipers or loaded calipers?
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Old 04-25-2005, 07:39 PM
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what is the difference?? I paid 18.00 for them@ discount auto, so I'm guessing bare calipers.
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Old 04-25-2005, 07:42 PM
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whoops my bad I paid 38.00 for caliper.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:02 PM
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mod or sell?
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bare is just the caliper itself.
loaded comes with the bracket, new hardware, and pads.
I prefer loade because it makes life so much easier, especially on cars that have slides on the caliper (most cars)
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Old 04-26-2005, 02:41 PM
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ive been wondering what are the best type o pads to get?
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Old 04-26-2005, 02:50 PM
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mod or sell?
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depends on your driving habits.
a lot of people recommend the axxis Metal Masters (which of course I sell)
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Old 04-26-2005, 06:17 PM
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What about with cross drilled slotted?
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Old 04-26-2005, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by OBEEWON
ive been wondering what are the best type o pads to get?
The best type of pads to get to get the best stopping power would be pads with a coefficient of friction rating of HH or more. The SAE uses these codes on the sides of brake shoes and pads to describe the....well the coefficient of friction of the material. For instance if you get a set of pads with a rating of CC or something that early in the alphabet, then the stopping power is less than say a set of pads with a rating of EE or FF because of the amounts of metal in the material. The first letter is the rating when pad or shoe is cold and the second is rating when hot. There are mixed letters, like EF and whatnot. So basically its kinda like the further down the alphabet you go then the better the stopping power. Although, the further down you go then the more material you use, so youll go through pads with an EE or FF rating quicker than a set with a CC or CD rating.
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Old 04-28-2005, 04:53 PM
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When you changed the calipers, did you grease the slide pins that the calipers attach to? If not, they might be stuck and the pads would drag against the rotor.
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