Nick93SE

Well this hasn't happened in a while but the past 2 weeks whenever i go to start my car after it has been siting for a while it wont crank over without 5 mins. of trying. It will just keep cranking and cranking untill it will finally start. But, it will idle rough and sometimes die. Again, having to force it to start.
In the past, every time i've fixed something the problem would stop for a good 2 months or so then do the same thing again. So far ive changed the vaccum hoses, MAF, and replaced the starter(went 201K on a stock one and replaced it with a stock one) Also when i replaced the starter, i got a tune up at the same time so.
Another problem is that the car is very sluggish. I went away for 6 days and it was fine. It didn't move for those 6 days so i kinda expected it to be slow for a few. But, today after i finally got it to start and let it get to idle right(around 800-900) i just revd it a little and it sounded like it was mis-firering.

sorry for this bein a little long but i tried searching for it(will donate soon) but couldnt find something that fixed my problem(there are some i found but they all told me to replace the maf which has been done.)

kc10fish

iTrader: (1)

change fuel pump and ck for vacume leaks-good luck

DARHAW-MAX

Since you have a VE engine, here are some things to check:
• Check ALL vacuum hoses—some are very hidden and can be easily missed
• Check ignition coils for resistance and cracks
• Check spark plugs for fouling—if not already replaced
• Check, fuel injectors by checking resistance
• Check EGR valve for sticking—as per FSM
• Change fuel filter.
• Ensure that throttle body is clean.
• Get an FSM and check pages EF & EC-155 thru EF & EC 339
• Although the O2 sensor is not related to starting problems, it is a very good idea to check it out anyways—make this last after you have fixed your starting problem.

Wiking

...for the point 8, goto bottom of page: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1

...Repair or Replace ---> the TPS: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6

...when this NOSTART condition is ON, check that u really get the SPARK. Without SPARK, its sometimes difficult to start ...If this is the condition, ign sw might be worn (ECU does not receive ON -signal). Take one coilpack off, install spare plug, ground it, observe.

...when this NOSTART condition is ON, check that u really get the iNJECTION. Listen for injector click: mark campos sensor, take off, put ign on, rotate...

Nick93SE

well i cleaned the TB, with no luck. So now we've pretty much got it down to the Power transistor. The sucky thing about trying to read this thing is you can only do it for 10 min before it starts up then you have to wait an hour or 2 so it can cool off enough so it wont start again.

But, the PS costs alot of money and hopefully it fixes the problem.

Wiking

U may also replace ECU, MAF, gas tank etc... as nobody mentioned those. It will also cost honey and NOT hlp. Good Luck.

Nick93SE

lol i have about 3 or 4 MAF's sitting around after replacing them to find out that wasnt the problem. Luckly i got them from junkyards and found a good one to keep in the max.

Nick93SE

problem is back..not as bad as before but still there so this weekend im going to check out all these problems(cheaper ones first, and see if that does anything.

Nick93SE

Does it go knock sensor when cold, then to o2 or when its cold it uses the o2 then goes to knock?
Because, i found out from the previous owner that the ks hasnt been replaced in a while and the o2 also.

With the MAF, i unpluged it and it wouldnt let me go passed 2500 rpms, and when i replugged it it allowed me so im pretty much positive that thats not the problem.

also, what kind of spray should i use to check vaccum hoses?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

o2 and knock are both used when warm

subs1000w

check fuel pressure that will confirm your pump and regulator are fine

Nick93SE

i thought one of them was used when you start the car when its cold? But, anyways they haven't been changed in a while so i might change them.

Also, the fuel pump is working properly, got it tested and the pressure was great..also can hear it turn on when the key is on the on position.

Wiking

And the problem returned - is the long crank time before start?

Measure +12V from MAF rightmost pin while starting: tells if ECU is alive. (if so, your pwr supply to ECU & ign sw is ok)

Spraying to troubleshoot leaks when engine idles: 'anythin' goes. Water is thicker and will enhance the leak when u hit with water. Oil is better, but messy. Some use starter gas (I dont) and get rpm boost. Still I think u should have very big leak not to crank (PCV?).

Nick93SE

well, if i get it right it will start up right away. If i dont, it will go to like 300 rpms, then die. Will take anywhere from 5 to 10min with the key in the on position to get it started(will the occasional trying to start in between) then after that, you have to let it sit for another minute or two to let it warm up, then it runs perfectly.

Also, in the morning it will start with no problems(actually any first start of the day will run fine)

Im not sure where the rightmost pin is, but ill will take a look today after school or work. But, im going to replace the KS and the O2 anyways because they havent been done in a while, also the ign coils aswell.

Wiking

TPS is used cold. After O2 has been warmed enough, it is used instead. (A/T uses TPS all the time)

Now I dont think its MAF pwr supply; still may be acting MAF. But if u already swapped, the no.

"actually any first start of the day will run fine" --->heat related.

Heat related:
? No mention of IACV clean or its cold air choke tst. Cam Pos sensor is ok? Coilpacks? Oxidized Connectors ('thousands' pins to check), Groundings. ...some already suggested by Darhaw...

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

In some ways your symptoms sound similar to mine. I have a two part problem. The first is like yours and the second is surging idle up and down. My starting problem is like yours, but it seems to me it is flooding. I can smell unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust. If the engine doesn't fire up right off the bat, I might as well forget it.

If you are going to try a new power transistor, find someone with a parts car. They are expensive new. Also, other possibilities are going to be IACV, like I think my problem is. I am also going to swap in a new coolant temp sensor and see if that helps. Jeff also thinks an injector is a possibility. I am hoping this isn't it, but it may be something you should look into as well.

I have a couple of spare throttle position sensors if you are interested shoot me a PM.

Please keep updating the thread if you find a solution.

chris

Nick93SE

thanks chris and wiking. I already got the Pwr Transistor and that wasnt the case lol. I have the surging idle as you mentioned, but that is only after i miss the start up the first time and i have to wait till it warms up on its own, then after that its perfect.

I cleaned out the TPS and that didnt do anything so i might have to get a nother. Ill check out the coolant temp. sensor and the IACV(although, the idle is fine after the car warming up, around 900-1100)

But with that point right there, sounds like i should replace my tps.