Jack.

Whenever i'm stopped, my engine starts studdering like it wants to stall and causes the car to vibrate horribly. It dips from 700 RPM to 400 while idling in park and drive. When i first start the car and move it continues to bog down till i hit 2500 RPM then it acts normal until I come to a stop again.

What could it be? Injectors? Plugs? O2 Sensor? MAF? help plz.

Wiking

...it could it be Injectors, Plugs, O2 Sensor, MAF, ...and the some!

Hight Time for PM: First swap plugs DO REAL wires, swap cap [if any], clean some 1000 connector pins, make add on groundings and clean existing ones....

I suspect air leak in u rubber hoses; take all out and inspect. Whattodo next check out first: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1

DaWifey's90

iTrader: (3)

all valid starting points but why not start on the cheap and easy before getting into any costs....

sorta sounds like your engine is being suffocated for air at idle...

at or around your throttle should be an air bypass valve
9i think nissan calls it the AAC) which opens when the engine is at idle - i.e. the throttle is not open...make sure that this is clean and operational...there's a somewhat involved process to adjust idle speed depending on your skill level...i belive the chiltons and heyes manuals also describe the process...

Wiking

all valid starting points but why not start on the cheap and easy before getting into any costs...

--->that is reading what is said. Pls do. And FYI, its IACV...

btw. chilton is bs.

so u also, please, clic on:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/4

DaWifey's90

iTrader: (3)

easy there...i was just suggesting checking the idle valve BEFORE doing anything with wires, plugs, connectors and grounds as opposed to the reverse which is how your post read

Wiking

IACV is easy there...

No sir. Plug swap, ign wires plus cap (and connectors cleaning) is dirt cheap, basic tuneup for any car, and its not an option. IACV is after that, only once in 60-100k...

The right order, pls read u FSM - NOT the crap chilton:

1. Plugs swap every 10k if std plugs,
2. sootbag wires every 30k, [or DIY everlasting real wire]
3. IACV 60-100kmiles...
4. Connectors clean for all harness every 5yrs
5. Belt
6. Hoses swap every 10 yrs
7. etc...

...or just dont do and keep woNdeRin why o why...

Everyone who wants spotless idle does this, others complain:

clic: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/12

aminus21

iTrader: (14)

How do I clean the IACV?? Your site just says to take it off and spray it with some solvent. Is it that easy?? where exactly do we clean it?
And would carb cleaner work??

Wiking

It is even easier... liberal soak, and dirt flows off, well maybe a rag sweep. U see where to cean as u open it up. Open, clean the TB also. Carb cleaner is made for it... 'anythin' goes.

The dirt is actually 'pure' carbon particles that have come through the filter. Very small grained blk soot. Thats the soot that we breath behind hondas...

91 Maxima Girl

My car does the same thing when stating it hasnt done it when I am stopped though My fiance cleaned some connectors and it hasnt done anything he even replaced them. So when you find a fix PLEASE let me know!

Nickpisp

Mine just started doing this too.............

4dscPat

Could the IACV have anything to do with stumbling up to 2500 rpm? Or does that sound more like ignition? When I blip the throttle ever so slightly by hand, I hear a Hisss from the IACV. Is that normal?

Wiking

Idle Air Control Valve says all; only idle. IACV is typically silent... are u sure sound comes from there? Is Idle ok? Clamp the input air hose and test again (needs some throttle to keep running). Open and clean, test the steppermotor as FSM suggest (also on my web page)

It may be ignition, but also TPS (cold) or MAF, maybe tachometer, and/or groundings. Test them. If u have not done anything for plugs, Wires, cap, replace them.

daltongc

Wow, this must be an epidemic. My car started doing this after lunch today. It coughs and sputters at idle (400-500 rpm) but will clean out and run smoothly after you get moving and get up to 1500 rpm or so. I've watched in the mirror and know that it's putting out black smoke like it's running really rich. I removed and cleaned the 1 month old air filter and even vaccuumed out the air filter housing. I've read this thread and the other one about the idle problem, but this one is closest to my problem. Is it possible that this is the O2 sensor? Do they go bad instantly? How would I check this?

Thanks

VEvolution

is there like an easy way to check all these sensors and wires? i have this little thing that tests for ohms, volts, etc. and an FSM and some basic mechanic skills, very good interior repair skills, and very very basic electric skills. do i got what it takes to repair all these sensors? do not want to see another mechanic's face for repairs as long as i live. thx

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

FSM, decent multimeter, and ability to follow instructions. You have those, you should be set for diagnostics. As for repair.... you might have better luck replacing any bad ones.

Wiking

My mirror was like that...

IACV, small hose airleaks, ign affect idle most. Bad rpm's over idle:
- If engine was cold; TPS http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6
- After Warmup; O2 and MAF
- If u have VGE, I'd go first after CAP, plugs wires... see how
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/12

They go bad gradually and/or instantly. Depends on MSwindows stocks, wind direction and...

Testing: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/9

Wiking

At least u have right attitude! With that, u become the mech... Wouldn't it hlp if u saw only the foreman at a $tealership and paid all and loaned?

I've been DIY since one mech deliberately ruined my steering; was lucky to survive and pay 10x to repair that. I was teen, could not do any thing, but decided its cheaper to ruin my car myself.

Like nelledge says, go for it.

VGE sensors tst, see: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1 ; VE has 'about the same' but locations vary.

Nickpisp

I sprayed some TB cleaner into my IACV today and it cleared it up for the most part. I guesss I need to take it apart and clean it.

VEvolution

if that would happen, then perhaps stealerships would all go out of buisness, and as for mechanics... im surprised they are still IN buisness, after some of the things they do on a regular basis....

i notice you call them stealerships, why is that? because everything there is overpriced? or at least i heard the prices they have there are rather higher then after market parts. much higher.

btw, have you ever heard of a place "E4 Sweden"?

daltongc

I'm convinced my problem is my MAF sensor. When I start the car, cold or warm, the idle sputters from 4-500 rpms, but will rev up fairly well when parked. When in gear (auto trans) it's horrible at low rpms, like from a stop sign or light, until you get a little speed, then it runs great. I did some checking with the car idling. I found that by tapping on the MAF sensor the idle will jump to about 600 or more and smooth out completely. Wiking, I read your page on your testing of the MAF sensor and you said you took the screens out completely. Can the sensor be cleaned some to make it work again, or is it a dead item at this point? The car will stay running smoothly until I shut it off and restart it, then it's back to the same sputter. Sounds almost identical to your issue Jack.

Jack.

Plugs did a lot of good, although i still havn't even changed the cap and rotor yet. My idling, with new plugs, is steady but studdering still exists on take off (i own an autotragic). Running accessories definately puts the problem back into play but since I've been involved with my leaking rear valve cover gasket I've yet to have time to really search out and destroy the rest of this problem.

Wiking

Btw. The nissan auto is one of the best. Tra-gig is the electronics side: wirings, connectors , groundings (that u have not yet serviced?) Buy 3$ engine plast spray or any el lacquer spray for u cap, stops stutter and bad feelins. I am not buying any more 7pipe plast cracks, just renew spray...

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/12




JoeF:
...stealer$hip is not my 'invention' but a nickname (used here) because of what they do: Take a 1000$ nissan for a service, and u come out with a 1500$ bill... even if the reason is one bad plug, 3$.

Of course, there are some good nice exceptions. Try and find out those...

E4 is the highway, kinda address to live. E4 Used to end in the harbour, here: http://www.vikingline.se/ ...dunno the poliTics, maybe route has changed for some other floatin shoppincenter; (my boat has been on the dock for 2 long...)

kiyakerz

iTrader: (7)

do these fixes apply to a VE manuel as well? My car was idling rough for a while, I replaced the fuel injector and now it runs great, but only when the AC is on. When the AC is off, there is a slight hesitation to the idle. I also think I have an exhaust leak which i can hear all the time, its a high pitched fart noise that is suddle at the same time. Can a simple exhaust leak cause my hesitation? I'm waiting for my dad to replace a gasket that may fix the leak, but who knows? He hasn't had a chance to take care of it. Also my A/C whines like no other, but only after the car has been running for a bit.

Wiking

Yes, up to a point. If no ign coil, distr cap, hi voltage wires - no way them to go bad ... But then VE 100$ coilpacks x6 that may leak (seldom). If cracked, lacquer most probably helps; if resistance out of specs, replace.

Otherwise 'all' about the same; diff locations.

IACV cleanup time?

AC should not affect engine; however, AC is also controlled by ECU. I suggest u clean all sensor, injector, coil, connectors, ECU connector and go throgh groundings. Check sensors and then after conn cleanup DIY selftest. Go through pages http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1 and also download u manual, see the links, and check the sensors.

daltongc

Jack, I went to the salvage yard and got a MAF sensor for $40 and it fixed my problem. I tested my old MAF by taking it off the intake tube and air filter, then setting it on the fender well. With the car started and stuttering, the needle in the maf was glowing red. When I tapped the MAF sensor with a screwdriver handle, the engine would run smoothly and the needle stopped glowing. I believe mine had a short in it. This might give you something else to check. My car runs fine now.

VEvolution

yeah, so i downloaded a 100MB video a few days ago, of a guy in a helmet, in a bmw m3 going through the E4 in the yr 2000 with an average speed of 250 km. went through it in 11 min and 31 seconds. don't they have speed limits there?

rawmax1

I just fixed that problem this weekend. Replaced upper intake plenum gaskets/tb&iacv gaskets. Cleaned TB and IACV. I also replaced my V/C gaskets since I was down there. Then I did a BG induction flush. Car runs like a dream. There was so much stuff in the TB & IACV. I also did coolant flush too.