When I'm accelerating from about 2,000 rpm's and up I can hear a slight rattling rattling (from the heads?). I'm assuming the timing is off. Should I just go ahead and change the timing belt? Or could I be looking at another problem?

I just bought the car 2 weeks and have no service records so I don't know how long it's been since the timing belt was changed. The engine has 130,000 miles on it, so I'm assuming it has been changed at some point. All of the belts looks relatively new with no glazing that I could see. Any help would be appreciated. This is a great site, searching around on this forum has been immensely helpful so far.

 

may be a good idea to change all wear parts like belts, plugs, oil etc before anything goes wrong that you wouldn't know beforehand. especially since there are no service record of the car.

about the rattling noise I don't know, I'll leave that to the more experienced guys

 

Suppose he's got the rattling VE VTC's - and maybe chain? Lucky we with the VGE, withOut coilpack$... Yes, lets leave this forever to VTC prbl solvers

Smbdy was juts ripped off with 700$ coilpack change at stealership (maybe one bad?). Maybe. Possibly ? also lost his airbags...

 

sorry, this person has a VG. so no VTC problem.
could be lifter noise, rod knock, etc...

 

oh eh not ? possible. Then its probably lifter noise.

= Replace oil and use proper filter... some say that might be cured with cleaner fluid, into the oil.

 

So, it's probably not a timing related issue?

 

I did notice the oil was BLACK...yet all the other fluids look great Anyways, thanks for advance. It getting a oil change and transaxle oil change this week.

I'll post back if there's a change.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

...read the stickies for THE filter. I suppose it needs to have right pressure to keep lifters going. Also gum blocking small channels surely causes problems.

 

What makes you ask this, did you advance your timing?

 

No, I didn't advance the timing. I assumed that the timing could be off due to belt slippage. But, based on the other replies I'm assuming it could be oil/filter related.

 

If belt is tight, belt jump is almost impossible. To sleep well, U can check its tightness by prying upper cover a little. Put big screwdriver on the mid belt, push down with 20lb force =ok if about half inch movement down.

Mechanical noise can be located with a 'scope': move screwdriver onto diff engine parts, ear on the handle.

 

...When I hear marbles, I think throw out bearing. Does the sound change when pressing the clutch?

I know it seems a lil off from ur prediction, but I had this a 'marble' issue.,

 

Is the throw out bearing a common thing to go on the VE max's. I think I heard mine the other day but then the sound went away.

 

No, definitely not the throw out bearing. I can replicate the noise (raising the rpms) and it's coming from the engine bay.

 

don't overlook the waterpump

 

you mean when I change the timing belt?

 

waterpumps can start to sound like marbles rattling around when they go bad

 

....Is the tranny not in the engine bay? lol

 

Im thinkin it may be the exhaust manifold studs. It can also be caused by usin the wrong grade of gasoline. I know whenever I put 87 in, I get a nasty knock upon acceleration. You might be hearing knocking and thinking its "marbles", but the hood and surrounding metal might just filter it to sound that way.

Also, if your timing belt were to slip I would worry about more serious things rather than a rattling noise. The timming belts are toothed so they shouldnt be slipping..........assuming everything is functioning properly.

Good Luck

 

I had same noise, i had my timming done and it stopped. My spring and sprockets were off and they made hell of noise.

 

Go ahead and do all of the maintenance that you plan on doing since you received the car w/out any maintenance records.

Now for your rattling problem: Is the rattling synchronized with engine RPM? If so, then it could be your lifters or some other rotating engine part as they move in concert with the engine. If the sound is NOT necessarily synchronized with engine RPM, then you will have to investigate elsewhere. Second question: does the rattling continue after the engine is revved beyond 3k? If you answered “no” to both question, the rattling may be coming from an exhaust leak due to bad/cracked/broken/missing exhaust studs. It could also be from a loose or rested heat shield. (this was my issue)

Since you have obtained a VG engine w/out any records, you may want to:
• 1st, get an FSM (Factory Service Manual)
• Replace timing belt, tensioner, and water pump
• Replace spark plugs, cap and rotor
• Inspect plug wires and replace if bad—or just replace them
• Replace all filters to include fuel filter
• Do the Seafoam treatment a couple of times to clean engine
• Check resistance of fuel injectors
• Drain, flush and properly refill coolant
• Flush brake and clutch fluid
• Look into replacing both the clutch master and slave cylinders (total cost of parts is < $50.00)
• Replace PCV Valve
• Replace all vacuum hoses
• Clean throttle body.
• Inspect upper and lower ball joints
• Inspect CV boots along with steering bellow boots
• Inspect all bushings in the front and rear suspension

 

I had same noise, i had my timming done and it stopped. My spring and sprockets were off and they made hell of noise.

 

I noticed mention of the seafoam engine treatment. Dexron III/Mercon Transmission fluid also works very well as a valvetrain cleaner. Add one quart and drive around for 30-40 miles then change your oil. It will be blacker than normal (crude) and will smell bad. The benefits far outweigh the Action. The ATF will NOT affect the engine in any other way. Simply put, it's motor oil with much more detergent in it. Good Luck

 

The only risk with doing that is the potential of it destroying the valve seals if the valvetrain is pretty weak, but ANY engine cleaning substance CAN do that..and you're better off draining about 1 quart of oil then adding 1 qt of dexron 3, and driving NO FASTER than 35 mph, preferably about 20 mph as close to non stop as possible. The reason for that is ATF is very thin, and will make your oil thinner than it should be if you already use 10w-30

 

lol

Someone said something about using the wrong grade of gas, refering to 87...does this car take premium or something? The car didn't come with a manuel either, I just assumed it took 87.

 

I notice alot less engine noise when I run 93.

 

1st :: This is my first post.
2nd :: DARHAW-MAX, Good list above.
3rd ::
I myself just bought my first Maxima. 1990 SE VG. The owner does not recall ever having the timing belt changed while in his posession. It has 105,000mi on it. I believe I read on this forum that these engines have an internal 'Interference' design, meaning that engine damage will occur if the timing belt goes during a highway trip. Past experience tells me that marbles = Water pump. Especially when the 'marbly' sound is not in synch with engine RPMs.

Since I have a multi-state trip coming up, I am replacing the water pump & timing belt next week just to be safe(and have peace of mind). I'll return with the results. ( Of course, this means the timing will be re-set.)

-Jim

 

"2nd :: DARHAW-MAX, Good list above."
- first point in the list: get it just by clicking

- Yes, high time for belt. --->Make sure u get squared teeth belt - IF squared teeth. After getting it on, concentrate on the checkup tightness (=20lb downforce bends midbelt half inch). Timing will not change...

- take pics, make a writeup

 

I am experiencing a similar problem. I am hearing a metalic tap (clank) between idle and 3000 rpm. After 3000 RPMs, she purrs like a kitten. My VTCs are grounded. I have isolated the noise to the rear cylinder area near or at the VTC. It sounds like the end lifter is tapping the valve cover. I am also experiencing irractic idle after I let off the accelerator. I also leave a pleasent cloud of oil smoke when I take off from a red light.

I know with the vast experience repesented here, you guys have probably seen this a thousand times, so, if you could fill me in on what I am dealing with I would greatly appreciate it.

 

PVC valve dirty?

 

I have considered the possibility of the PCV valve causing some of my problems. If indeed it is "dirty", can I safely clean it and how?

 

replace it, they cost 5 bucks.

 

I think to buy a new is real cheap?

Use oil cleaning solvent and maybe little pressurized air blast. I think the tingie is just a flap (or ball) valve with a spring (never opened nissan PCV).

Generally as the PCV starts to freeze and play whatever with idle, I usually just have plugged them off. Then on some, I've taken long rubberhose down the engine from valve cover not to let pressure accumulate, depending the engine type. Some old carb engines without PCV were configured to suck engine oily gases into filter and thus shcmuck the air filter; stupid configuration, stealerships filter sellers dream.

 

I will purchase a new PCV valve today. I have already purchased porducts to perform an oil and filter change.

Where is the PCV valve located on the VE's?

 

...links to online manual etc ↓↓↓↓↓

 

Excellent Info....except I have the VE or dual overhead cam version! Is the a similar site for the VEs?

 

...thats why I wrote: ...links to online manual... ...links to etc ↓↓↓↓↓

...there will be a VE site after someone donates a VE.

 

I hsve been unable to locate the PCV valve on my 92 SE. I had directions to look at the center of engine compartment, towards the rear, and mounted on the intake manifold. Still, I can't find it. I must be blond...I mean blind!

 

...no pic on autozone online manual or the FSM?

PCV has smtg to do between intake and valve cover, if I reMember right.

 

No picture, just the directions. You are correct, the PVC does have something to do with the intake and valve cover. I have searched the intake and can't seem to locate anything that ties the two together. Ie, hose etc...