Tonyklem

iTrader: (1)

when i start it up it can pull like hell, but after a few minutes and it warmed up it has barely any pull at all, i have an exhaust leak and a vacuum leak SOMEWHERE but i dont kno if that would effect it because i would think those would both affect it from startup. lemme know what u think.

Drivin Maxima

iTrader: (7)

Well the cars' comp will activate different sensors and components as the vehicle gets to proper opperating temp. So it could very well be a sensor or acctuator problem. However, it could still be a vacuum leak, so start cheap and check all vacuum lines and move on from there. Good luck

mtnbikeair

iTrader: (4)

Never underestimate a vaccum leak. A leak is a leak and it can only hurt you, it will probably never help you. So start there.

Tonyklem

iTrader: (1)

grrr thats the worst answer i wanted to hear lol, id rather hear a blown head gasket or something... i looked for 3 hrs and listened and couldnt i find crap. i replaced like 6 lines already and they werent the problem.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I would first tell you to do a tune up. Check the ECU for codes too. I am pretty sure your Knock Sensor is dead. When they start to die, they will retard the timing and you will suffer a huge loss in power once the motor warms up. After you do a full tune up, if you are still experiencing a slight loss in power (5hp or so), then that is just due to the VE being known to have "heat soak". It's basically a term that we use to say that the VE sucks if it gets hotter than 200 degrees.

The secret to getting rid of all heat soak is, get a good KS, make phenolic spacers, wire a manual fans switch, and don't let your coolant get above 190 degrees and you will never experience heat soak. But for starters, do a tune up, then check your codes, then replace your KS and subharness wire.

CyMax

iTrader: (5)

I can totally vouch for pheno spacers. I had a set on my 94PGT and WOW the difference , even to the touch on the IM was night and day.


Hey Aaron92SE, know anyone who makes pheno's for a VE??

DARHAW-MAX

In addition to the leaks, you probably have a bad knock sensor. Very, very common, and it will cause the symptoms that you described. Somewhere in the stickes, there are a couple of writeup referencing that issue.

mtnbikeair

iTrader: (4)

Why would you be hoping for a bad head gasket???

Wiking

1. U dont know what hell is like... dont get there; only one way to avoid.
2. Cold engine is controlled via TPS input; seems ok.
3. Hot engine does not use TPS, but switches to O2 & MAF
4. Exhaust leak before O2 makes a difference, after O2, no diff
5. Vacuum leaks affects mainly idle, anyways equal be it cold or hot. Easy to seek out.

IF your harness, connectors &groundings have been serviced:
- Check voltage att batt, ECU
- DIY O2 selftest
- Check that MAF voltage output is linear
- Check camshaft sensor cold &hot
- Plugs, coils are affected with engine heat; check
- Block =crimp PCV hose to tst PCV condition.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Mine had this problem until i grounded my vtc's......

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Sorry. Nobody makes upper or lower intake manifold spacers. I think Matt93SE makes a nice throttle body spacer.

CyMax

iTrader: (5)

Thinking ahead I emailed www.outlawengineering.com they are the folks that make them for the PGT and a dozen other applications. Not to ***** for them but the set I had was sweet, longer studs with pheno spacers for them as well, a perfect fit. If they get enough emails they will produce them for the VG / VE. So email them at tech@outlawengineering.com and let's not let them say no!!!

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah, they already make a great product for the SR20DE motor. Also, I've already seen spacers out there for the VG30E Maxima motor. But absolutely nothing for the VE. But the SR20DE throttle body spacer is identical to the VE30DE spacer.

Wiking

My uneducated opinion of the spacer-snakeoil is that there exists no technology on earth which can differentiate the airtemp (With/Without snakeoil) - at full throttle =600mph airflow. (Air temp is provenly one pwr factor.)

But if theyre nice color, cannot argue against ah the feelin...

NewEngSurf

Hey back to the ks talk. I experience a great loss of power in my car , and i only feel the "pull" about 1/5 of the time when I punch it, or like a few seconds after I punch it. I figured it was my ks but i have never had a check engien light on. Can i go to autozone and pull codes from my ecu even tho the check engion light isnt on. btw, engien timing has been checked, full tune up, tps, and I recently blew my cat but got it replaced. Should i just go ahead and drop the 100+ bucks on the knocksensor?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

1. AZ can only check codes on a 96 or newer vehicle
2. it won't set a code anyhow
3. use a meter to check the resistance and you'll be on your way to an answer

Tonyklem

iTrader: (1)

can somone post pics of where exactly the contacts are that i need to test? im still kinda learning where stuff is on the max

Wiking

...done it already. Needs only smone to read... if wanna learn, read all pages.

click: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/9

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

there most likely wont be a code, i never got one and mine was fried.

NewEngSurf

Well i tested my KS and got no reading at all, tried it with the car running and still got no reading on my multi. Looks like mines gonzo. That would expain why my car has sucked down gas and is very sluggish. How hard is it to replace the ks. Im going to be doing it myself now i am a newbie but my bro is the opposite so we are proby gona designate a nice day to do it on. Should i think about buyin the factory service manuel for instructions? find some online?

Wiking

Ks swap =PITA. If u got VE, its more than PITA, its pure madness. Read somewhere t here stickies, I read the other day of smbdy installing KS to a reachable place. Now thats an great idee; but is there a writeup?

Find some on line?:...Needs only smone to read... if wanna learn, read all pages.
click: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1 ...see Links

Duckman540i

iTrader: (12)

If your flooring it before the engine temp is up (mainly letting the RPM's go up past 4000), that will be very hard on your Engine & it will not last you very long. Also if the engine is overnight cold then that explains the "*****" when you floor it. Your engine temp is much cooler thus making more power. But that will go away after the engine has fully warmed up, And your engine will be making full (warmed up) power which will be like all VE's. This may not be your problem, but I know that flooring a non-warmed up engine is bad news, Dont do it. Let your temp gauge go in between the "C" & "H" before even thinking of revving your engine high. Also dont floor it in higher gears @ real low RPM's, Slowly build it up, or downshift, cause the engine wont get enough oil pressure & that also is bad. (Doesn't apply in Auto's cause you dont have much of a choice) On a cold engine generally try to keep it under 3500 RPM. Also the Oil Pressure Issue is always, not just when its cold. There are much more detaills to all this, that I dont feel like typing, so just practice the basics up top & take my word for it.

Tonyklem

iTrader: (1)

by flooring it i mean just punching it for a short time, not long enough to rev it up real high, i can just feel the complete power loss after its warmed up.

NewEngSurf

Aight so I think im gona replace my ks myself with the help of my bro and friend. I figgured i will probly need some new gaskets seeing last week i took of my throttle body the tb gasket fell apart. probly find some cracked hoses that need to be replaced. The instructions on the acticles section on www.4dsc.com seep pretty good, although i may just go to the dealer and pick up a factory service manuel, how much do they charge for those? and i was also thinking, would a fried knock sensor result in an poor start up. It seems like it takes my car a second longer to turn over