5sp swap reverse lights
#4
I've got the fix for you, just don't have the time to write it out now - I'm at work. I'll try to check back in this evening and tell you how to make it all work. When I did my tranny swap, I mapped out the electrical so my reverse lights, cc, and clutch switches worked just like they are supposed to.
#7
Originally Posted by 4dscPat
Not terribly hard. It's pretty straight forward, just somewhat labor intensive.
Thanks alot 90pearlSE, I really appreciate it.
Thanks alot 90pearlSE, I really appreciate it.
no seriosly tho, did it bolt right up? i know u need to get the manual tranny first with all it's equipment, and then u gotta reprogram ECU
#9
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
cool.. so was there custom work in involved?
no seriosly tho, did it bolt right up? i know u need to get the manual tranny first with all it's equipment, and then u gotta reprogram ECU
no seriosly tho, did it bolt right up? i know u need to get the manual tranny first with all it's equipment, and then u gotta reprogram ECU
#10
Originally Posted by xnyc
might be harder for you considering your in nj. bottom of your car should have a good amount of salt getting on it every year. all your bolts will prolly be really hard to get off and watnot
#12
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damn i need help on this as well cuz i need my reverse lights to turn on.
Joe Fontinyatz: the swap is not hard just like rest of the guys said. u don't even need to change ur stock ECU. it bolts right up and everything so have fun.
Joe Fontinyatz: the swap is not hard just like rest of the guys said. u don't even need to change ur stock ECU. it bolts right up and everything so have fun.
#13
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
damn i need help on this as well cuz i need my reverse lights to turn on.
Joe Fontinyatz: the swap is not hard just like rest of the guys said. u don't even need to change ur stock ECU. it bolts right up and everything so have fun.
Joe Fontinyatz: the swap is not hard just like rest of the guys said. u don't even need to change ur stock ECU. it bolts right up and everything so have fun.
#17
Ok, so I tried to look at the wiring on my car, but I wrapped it up in flex tube and covered it with tape - so I don't really feel like tearing that all out to see. I took a couple pics of my two cars when I did the swap to show the difference in the harnesses - the F20 harness on the manual body, and the F21 on the auto's body. The first picture is of the F20 harness, which is for reverse lights and the position sensor - 4 wires. The reverse lights use the red wire and one of the green wires. In the second picture you can see the F21 harness on the auto's body, which has a 6-pin plug and a 4-pin plug. The wires that you need to use are pulled away from the others. For the reverse lights, you need the red wire and green wire from that 6-pin plug (on the left/bottom in the pic). When I did this job on my car, I just cut off the mating end on the manual's electrical harness (that F20 plug end) and spliced in the four wires I needed to make it work right. Look at the pictures closely to see which green wire you need. If you don't have the F20 plug end, you'll just have to improvise a little. I'm assuming you have a FSM - look in the back at the electrical section for refference. Hope this helps you out.
The F20 connection on the manual tranny version's electrical harness.
And these two plug ends comprise the F21 connection on the auto tranny version's electrical harness. The two wires pulled away from the plug on the left are used for the reverse lights circuit, and the two wires pulled away from the plug on the right are used for the position sensor. **When these wires are connected properly, the car will not start unless it is in neutral. I found this to be annoying, seeing as how I wired up the clutch switch/relay and CC cut switch like it's supposed to be. I'm used to having to step on the clutch to start, but I often park in gear and having to put it in neutral to start just seemed like a bother. You can just bypass that by connecting those two wires together (I think I just used a scotch-lock as a jumper, you can just cut them from the plug and use a wirenut or something if you like).
The F20 connection on the manual tranny version's electrical harness.
And these two plug ends comprise the F21 connection on the auto tranny version's electrical harness. The two wires pulled away from the plug on the left are used for the reverse lights circuit, and the two wires pulled away from the plug on the right are used for the position sensor. **When these wires are connected properly, the car will not start unless it is in neutral. I found this to be annoying, seeing as how I wired up the clutch switch/relay and CC cut switch like it's supposed to be. I'm used to having to step on the clutch to start, but I often park in gear and having to put it in neutral to start just seemed like a bother. You can just bypass that by connecting those two wires together (I think I just used a scotch-lock as a jumper, you can just cut them from the plug and use a wirenut or something if you like).
#19
Originally Posted by 4dscPat
Awsome, thanks alot. I'll have to try to get it all working tomorrow.
Somehow when I did it, I made it so it has to be in reverse to start : and never got around to fixing it. Anti-theft feature I guess.
Somehow when I did it, I made it so it has to be in reverse to start : and never got around to fixing it. Anti-theft feature I guess.
#20
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Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
cool, u got the tranny and all the components from a junkyard car right?
yeah all of my parts came from a junkyard Maxima. i paid about $240 for all the parts and paid $40 for a new clutch disc and spent about 3 days doin' the conversion.
#21
Originally Posted by 90pearlSE
{snip} I took a couple pics of my two cars when I did the swap to show the difference in the harnesses {snip}
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