so this idle problem has been going on, but tonite i drove without my a/c on and no idling problem, once i turn on the a/c the idling started up again. it only happens when i drive and go to neutral. what's the deal with the a/c?thanks

 

A/C draws its energy from the engine - rpm's drop. ECU should compensate.

However, if the IACV it uses, is dirty, it cannot. Clean...

CLIC: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/4

 

I had a similar problem a while back. There is some solenoid (or relay) inside the compressor that let's the ECU know when the compressor is engaged. The ECU then adjusts timing and mixture to compensate for the drag of the compressor. When mine failed, I would idle at 750rpm without AC and 450rpm with AC.

The part was about $100 and $150-200 labor (required disassembly of the compressor - according to Nissan techs.)

 

StealerShip Fairy tale$.

ECU controls compressor via one Relay. Compressor is a stupido, just one plus12V wire energizes clutch, starts jumPing and cold pumPing... However, ECU has some inputs from 2Fans (ctrolled by ECU) and pressure sw 4a & Thermo Ctrl Amp 4b.

Take a luki:http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/7

 

the idle does indeed drop to 400 but it'll compensate and up the idle back to 700 again. so exactly what should i do? replace the seleniod or clean it out?

 

Again CLIC: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/4

 

is your battery strong enough?

 

i think my battery is pretty old also. but i'll change it... but imma clean out whatever wiking said to clean out.. problem is i dont know where it is since mine is a VE.. i don't see that big motor and valve anywhere.. any suggestions?

 

Mine idles at about 1000 rpm's when AC's not engaged, kinda rough idle as well. But when engaging the AC the idle drops to about 800. Haven't really cared so much about it, but if I did I'd definatly go with Wikings instructions.

You should read them, and try to understand. They really are the solution to your problem

 

No motor but compressor, front left. Dig in... Read your maint manual, theres also VE sections & fault finding guides, see links on my page.

 

Phatsta: You should try the vacuum hose repair procedure from Wiking's cardomain pages and then adjust your idle RPMs, if you never repaired your vacuum hoses yet.

 

what's the best possible way of removing the iacv, from what i see the easiest way is to remove the TB first and then go to the iacv. thanks and how long does this take to remove and clean. much appreciated i've already looked at autozone guides but it doesn't provide enough visuals as i would like. im' one of those visual learning people.

 

Why are u STILL looking at that... I suggest again that u clic on the LINKS on my cardomain page.

Some do whole IACV cleanup by squirting cleaner spray into IACV air input hose; needs attached extension hose bit with a small hose to squirt intake cleaner spray in while idling.

 

haha sorry i completely missed that part of your guides on your page, which tube is it that i need to spray into on the VEs? is it the tube that is attached to the intake manifold?

 

If I'm right, thats for PCV (other end comes from cam cover). I suppose thats in the manual...

Start from IACV: there is only one thumb thick AIRfeed hose, plus one smaller, ...and water in&out. That airhose is taken out and then there is installed an extension with a possibility to inject cleaner into idle air input flow. (Note that a infinidesimal minuscle leak in there will result in idle problems.)

VGE IACV eats those idling blue ***** from between MAF and TB:

 

thanks alot! i put it in the pcv pipe and the pipe that comes from the intake itself and connects to the iacv. its acting up much less, but still there. i've been using TB/intake cleaner. maybe i should use something else or would that be sufficient enough?
oh btw... i can't seem take off the tube without the car turning off, is it suppose to turn off since its a huge vaccum leak?

 

My VGE dies instantly when that hose is taken off. Minuscle leak =idle at 1500.

The only way for true clean is open it up. But if that works, why do it... I'd try to soak it to get all soot runnin down.

 

thanks i'll try some seafoam to clean it up i'm sure that'll clean it up real good
i appreciate all your help Wiking!

 

i ended up taking the IACV out since it was only 4 screws and cleaned it up real well. soaked it in intake cleaner. and replaced the gasket. the problem is partially gone, i've noticed that when i drive and put it in neutral the rpms dont' drop as fast. it'll hoover around 1krpm and then drop to 700. but when i come to a stop and wait for a 3-5 seconds, the idle drops to 500 and then pop back up? what's up with that? vaccum leak?

btw. i've changed all my cracked coil packs, changed temp sensor. thermostat and obviously cleaned the iacv.

 

I had the exact same problem except it went away when i replaced the fuel injector. I wiped out the IACV, but no cleaner or anything. Probably isn't your problem but it may be worth checking.

 

Maybe the IACV stepper motor valve jams ...adjuster screw (1b) needs still lubrication, small squirt of lithium spray?

After IACV is ok, the fault may be anythin keeping the engine weak... Vacuum leak, fuel filter (check pressure), bosch plugs, oxidized connectors: Cam sensor, ECU, SMJ's AND the mentioned injectors...

Start from checking voltage levels from batt, then at ECU...

 

it might be the step motor itself because i'm still having the same problem after cleaning up the IACV. it still falls to 500 after reving and goes back up to 700. this only happens when the temp is extremely hot. it stopped acting up when it started raining. thanks

oh btw what's the best thing to use to deoxidize sone connectors i do see some oxidized connector plugs.

 

If your idling at 700 with the ac on, then your fine. but 500 in drive and the ac on, is a bit too low. You can simply bump the base idle 100rpm, by turning the idle screw one full turn CCW.

 

it doesn't idle at 500 when the ac is on, but the idle drops to 500 when i go to neutral and it'll jump right up to normal. it was working normally for a couple of days after i cleaned it up but its starting to act up again.

 

you need to be more specific, it starts at what? then drops to 500? and what does it do normally? in terms of rpm.

for the rpm to jump for a second or two after putting it in N is normal.

 

do you think this would help if you had the same problem but only when the car is placed in drive and not the ac pulling down the motor, my problem is that when the car is in drive the idle is very rough but once you give it gas it calms down. on the highway i have no trouble will still do 110 mph easy.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....1&goto=newpost

try this for that hesitation problem.

 

okay, to be more specific, i drive a 5spd Ve, and when i go from from any gear at any RPM to neutral, my RPM needle would drop continuously to 500 and up right up to 700. this was the problem before i cleaned my IACV, removing it and replacing the gasket. After i cleaned the IACV the car acting normally, from any speed and any gear going to neutral, my RPM would drop to about 1000rpm hover for a second and drop down to 700, but when i come to a complete stop the engine would suddenly drop its rpm from 700 to 500 and then immediately back to 700. after another day of driving. my old symptom has reappeared. the RPMs would drop continuously down to 500 when i go to neutral at any gear and any speed. i suspect its the step motor but not sure. i'll check the voltage asap and try to clean all the connections, but i don't know if it'll work because the symptoms come and go. oh and also, the symptoms appear only when a/c is on. thanks

 

I think best is electronics cleaner spray, leaves no residue. Spray & soak. After that, wait&dry, add minuscle bit of contact grease (use a 'toothpick'). Check out my cardomain page...