BML94GXE

iTrader: (1)

soo i'm on my way back from my lunch break and sitting at a light and all of the sudden everything goes dim, a\c controls, clock\ radio, bose amps turn off and the back on and it did it twice. then i pull into parking lot and it takes like a minute after i turn the car off for the power locks to respond. the lights were on so everything was dim, but when this happened everyhting got dimmer, like couldnt read clock dim. help please!!!

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

def. power issue, check your battery and alt for corrosion and if you find some, remove it.

Tarzan

I would start checking the fuses, than relays, than harnesses. Sounds like one of two: short circuit or bad connection somewhere. Took me a year to figure the similar problem with the engine control.

ronal404

This happened to me after my battery died and I replaced it.

Your battery is not producing enough power because the alternator has gone bad. Have a reputable shop test your charging system before you pop for a new battery

915spd

go to autozone or the like and get the alternator tested.

BML94GXE

iTrader: (1)

i just got a new battery in january, a red top optima, i'm going to check the alternator when i get home.

garbury

iTrader: (4)

When i had dimming and radio turning off it was due to my voltage regulator on the alternator. I was blowing through headlights like crazy though, and my amp went into protection mode, but its probably your alternator or battery like everyone else said.

Wiking

Follow the charge voltage while driving: fluctuation may also be oxidized gnd & connectors. This alt gnd bolt is seen only after opening; all is shiny new from outside... New alt does not hlp.
Can u see the dead battery tHere?
clic on http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5

Minty91GXE

iTrader: (3)

that reads dying alternator all the way to me. had it happen before

dtahsee

If it was the alternator shouldnt the battery light on the Dash have come on?

maximapitko

Alternator....Let me tell my story when my alternator died. Of course it happened on one of the busiest intersection right by a target store. I barely made it to the store's lot and parked away from everybody in a distant corner under one of the lights. Luckily, I work right across the street so it wasn't a big deal. I have a parts car sitting some 40 miles away, so after work (8pm) I drove there, removed the supposedly good one and went back to my car. It's close to 10 pm now and kind of dark. After 1 hour the "new" alternator was installed. Unfortunatelly, it turned out to be a bad one as well. The following morning I got a reman. one and went to work. At 8pm i closed down and started walking towards my car which I could see with no problems. As I was getting closer and closer I start getting the feeling that something is not how I left it. 2 min later I start seeing glass in front of the car and right away start cusring in my mind the nasty "hood" I was in. When I got to the car though, all windows checked out fine and i couldn't really see anything wrong with the vehicle. But still, something is weird...At this moment I saw an envelope under my wiper. As I turned out, target corp. was reaplacing the parking lot lights and they accidently dropped the one I was parked under on my car. The damage was not realy that big-just a hood and a fender. Anyways, I called them up right away and a week later I had a check for $1200 in my hand. I never fixed it since the car has more rust then paint and I simply couldn't care less plus it drives the same with zero problems. Anyways, just thought I'd share...

BML94GXE

iTrader: (1)

nice. I'm gonna try and get a chance to look at it tonight and check it with my multimeter and ill get back to you guys, thanks for the help and info

Chris91SE

iTrader: (1)

i know mine didn't...

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the light only comes on if it detects a voltage regulator failure I believe

Minty91GXE

iTrader: (3)

where is the voltage regulator? that sounds like it could be the issue on my SE

rawmax1

I had the same problem on I95 en route to nyc in south carolina. It was raining so wipers started going slow and fast lights started to dim and radio went in and out. Changed alt under warranty but it took 6 tests to show a failure. On the other note on a 90 honda accord I had. I replaced the ground bolts and wire to alt and car was like new again. So I would check what wiking said first and then go to town on the alternator

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it's internal to the alternator. I don't recommend trying to change it yourself because you may reassemble it wrong and then you'll have serious problems.

Minty91GXE

iTrader: (3)

i wouldnt, i'm replacing the whole alt. i was actually hoping it was in there (since i've bought a diff. one). the problems i'm having aren't like this guys', i'm getting spikes/drops, god-knows-what, electrical insanity. mtnbikeair gave me his old VE alt. for a good deal and i'm praying it solves at least 1 of 3 ongoing issues.

MAXI

In regards to the above.....had an alternator failed on my other car... so i took it out of the car, took it to autozone...they said its still okay. i installed it again....same thing happens, took it out of the car again, went to pepboys this time....the guy hooked it up on their machine...came back OK! what????? i asked why then, he suggested maybe the ECU...okay, so i went for a third shop, this time, he tested it while hooked in the engine...he said its bad. so i ask why did the other two places said its still good....he's reason was the machine (to test the alternators) they have inside runs less rpm than the engines rpm...therefore getting a misdiagnose....we replaced it..everything is runs good now.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

also the machines don't check the load, or at idle (750-1k rpm) charging
they normally check it at 2k-3k .

mine is still undergoing diagnosis, it's only putting out 13.5v at idle :-\

rawmax1

I usually make them check it numerous times until it goes bad.

BML94GXE

iTrader: (1)

Update***

Yeah so i got lazy and didn't bother and so anyways its ahhhhh what the phrase im looking for, oh DEAD AS AN F*ING DOORNAIL yeah than goodness that it didnt happen on my 15 hours of driving on tuesday. So now i am in a bit of a dilemma about what to do. Because i have a 800w amp on there and want to put another 300w on and then probably another 800w next summer. Oh and i also have an aftermarket car alarm, e36 headlights with silverstars, and some other things that are not as power consuming, so do buy another normal alternator or do i beef it up with a more powerful one? Oh and i need to know what, if any dangers beefing it up would have cause i have no garage, no driveway to do it in so i have to take it to a shop, not happy about that, and i need relability cause i make trips to orlando often.

Thanks for reading the novel and please help, i have to do this soon!

Thanks

Brandon

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

run an extra battery in the trunk with the amps and a voltmeter.
just monitor the rear battery and recharge as neccessary.

or just realize that you don't need all those watts, unless you are an SPL competitor and then I think you're a fool for doing it with an old max.

just my .02

BML94GXE

iTrader: (1)

yeah, but can our OEm one handle the 800w and 300w one? I have a 2.5 farad cap?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the cap is nothing more than an overpriced device designed to replace a battery.

Our OE alternator will handle whatever you throw at it, un less you plan the system incorrectly

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I've got a 2500W system in my car.. running an optima orange (red) top in it. 225k old factory original alternator. no problems there.

Wiking

Its here... easy DIY replacement. Brushes swap ½hour (plus alt R/R), 5$:
Reg assy = brushes in the pic.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23


Mine was cracked (see yel arrows); here reg. view behind.