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Seized rear brake: caliper or e-brake?

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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 07:26 AM
  #1  
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Seized rear brake: caliper or e-brake?

Alright, after doing a little searching I still need some clarification. My rear passenger brake froze today, giving me a nice odor to smell on my way to work. By hitting the brakes hard and pulling the ebrake multiple times, I managed to get it unfrozen. Now, ordinarily I would diagnose it as a frozen caliper and be done with it. However, back in the winter on a particularly cold day, my rear driver brake froze up for a minute as well. I chalked that incident up to the cold and ice, as it didn't happen again. There is a good chance both calipers are on their way out, as they looked a little rough when I cleaned and greased them a year ago. However, it could be my e-brake cable going as well. My stainless steel brake lines appear fine, and are only a year old so I doubt it is them. How exactly would I diagnose the problem between caliper and e-brake cable? When I pull the e-brake cable there is tension, and it returns to the bottom when I release it. I'd rather not buy reman'd calipers, only to realize that it was the e-brake cable all along. Anyone know of a way to diagnose the problem? Thanks so much.
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 07:30 AM
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take the caliper off the car and test it
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
take the caliper off the car and test it

Well, I was hoping someone could tell me a way to eliminate the e-brake as a culprit without removing the caliper, honestly.
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
Well, I was hoping someone could tell me a way to eliminate the e-brake as a culprit without removing the caliper, honestly.
No other way but to separate those for diagnosis: cable is loose when loosenEd...
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 08:18 AM
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My ebrake freezes up in cold weather also...Might try taking the cable out and spray some penatrating oil in the cable. {I am going to try this before next winter.hope it works.}

I've also had my left rear caliper freeze up on me this spring...Replaced it with a pick a part salvage caliper for $35.
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 08:21 AM
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Pull the e-cable connection off the caliper and see if it slides easy. How was the fluid when you switched to the ss lines?
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Pull the e-cable connection off the caliper and see if it slides easy. How was the fluid when you switched to the ss lines?

Dark, but not disgusting. Honestly, I think I am going to buy 2 reman'd calipers regardless, just wondering if I should do the e-brake cable while I'm at it. I'm gonna need new rotors and pads as well. Sigh.
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 08:42 AM
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You probably have to pull down the cat+catback to access the cables. ugh.
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 09:49 AM
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Damn that sounds like a lot of work which is what I don't think Mike wants to do.

My handbrake never freezes, I forgot I have a heated garage for the winter

-D
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 01:46 PM
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its probably just the bracket that holds the caliper. sometimes the rubber arount the bolts tears and all the grease leaks out causing it to freeze. so it gets stuck up or down and you dont get free travel. you can get just the bracket from a junk yard for 5-$10 bucks.
Old Jul 12, 2005 | 10:47 AM
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Well, after 3 trips to Autozone in a span of 18 hours (lazy employees refusing to unload the daily shipment, of which my calipers were buried at the bottom of), I am in possession of 2 rebuilt calipers ($70 each + a $60 core). They are really nice! I wish I hadn't been so poor when I cleaned up my old ones last year, I definitely would have benefitted from just replacing them then. They even came with banjo washers (no trip to the dealer!). Next step is to call NAPA and order some 300zx rotors. Anyone know of an auto parts store in Mass that carries Axxis or Raybestos pads? I used NAPA pads last time and regretted it.
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