Rear end droning
#1
Rear end droning
Hi all,
This is pretty confusing but I'll try to keep it concise. My SE has been making a droning noise that goes away when you make a sweeping right corner on highways; it gets more audible at higher speeds (not too bad at 35, very annoying at 65+) This problem has been the same no matter what tires are on it. I've just done rear rotors on it and I thought that one of them was locking up on it because it had locked up the first run and I heat treated the rotor (ouch). The passenger side rotor looks like it's barely getting used yet it is hotter after driving (so I'm thinking that they are all working now and none are locking up). I really don't think it's bearings (or if the rear end has bearings that would cause this kind of noise). I've been looking in the forum and I haven't really seen a thread that matches mine. If anyone has any idea as to what might be causing this noise please let me know.
Thanks,
John
This is pretty confusing but I'll try to keep it concise. My SE has been making a droning noise that goes away when you make a sweeping right corner on highways; it gets more audible at higher speeds (not too bad at 35, very annoying at 65+) This problem has been the same no matter what tires are on it. I've just done rear rotors on it and I thought that one of them was locking up on it because it had locked up the first run and I heat treated the rotor (ouch). The passenger side rotor looks like it's barely getting used yet it is hotter after driving (so I'm thinking that they are all working now and none are locking up). I really don't think it's bearings (or if the rear end has bearings that would cause this kind of noise). I've been looking in the forum and I haven't really seen a thread that matches mine. If anyone has any idea as to what might be causing this noise please let me know.
Thanks,
John
#4
Originally Posted by john93se
...it's bearings (or if the rear end has bearings that would cause this kind of noise)....
Each wheel gotta have a functional bearing or u are in trouble, and its not ust noise. Jammed brakes have a possibility to fry the bearing.
login to autozone.com
...these are free:
#9
Originally Posted by john93se
Is there a way I can just get the bearing, I'm sure the stealership will want to see the whole hub. Thanks for the info
1b Go to shop and let em do it (5$?)
2. Insert bearing into pocket
3. Hop to bear ingsHop, ask, show ol bearring
4. Swipe u Visa... (5-50$?)
5. Push new bearing into the assy
5b. Go to shop and let em do it (5$?)
#10
I can only hope that they stock it in the parts department. The run around I usually get with them is rediculous. Well we suggest that you have it done here for 1,000 dollars because your car has some "other problems". Thanks for the advice, guess I was trying to make sure that they were allowed to sell just the bearing if that is the issue with the noise. Thanks again
#11
Originally Posted by john93se
...just the bearing if that is the issue with the noise. Thanks again
Bearing noise is connected to bad roll: turning the hub/bearing should be easy and free. If any sideways play or sticking, replace.
Actually its the 'only' place which may make the noise except smtg scrathing to/in brake assy.
#13
Originally Posted by 915spd
i have the same problem. i've been driving on it for like 2 years now. it's annoying, but it hasn't affected my driving any. i'd rather not pay the $109 per side just to have a little noise gone. just turn up the music.
When bearing is shot, u get a glimpse (maybe) of u stunt freewheeling rearwheel from mirror. Then dive into ditch.
Stop now an' think.
Whats left if that trigger point happens to be at 100mph?
#14
Originally Posted by 915spd
i have the same problem. i've been driving on it for like 2 years now. it's annoying, but it hasn't affected my driving any. i'd rather not pay the $109 per side just to have a little noise gone. just turn up the music.
- Poorer fuel economy.
- Increased tire wear (due to erratic rotation).
- More wear and tear.
- Possible damage (from abrupt failure).
#15
3 for me
I don't have the cash now, sometimes it's easier to pay for damage in incremental amounts until something really bad happens. Guess I can only hope the stunt would kill me so that I wouldn't have to pay for it all.. heh heh Yeah I guess I should go get it all checked out... The only reason I haven't was because I could turn the stereo up. But with the stock bose speakers and the volume increase of the bearing its hard to ignore... Thanks for the advice
#17
Originally Posted by john93se
... I could turn the stereo up. ...
The wheel may clunk for years, or maybe YOU KILL smbdy -intentionally- tomorrow. Luckily we've got inspection that really keeps klunkers on junkyard where they belong to.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
How about just doing what wiking said and just get the bearing replaced? If you have to order the bearing no biggie, you'd be driving around on it any way. And if you cant do it yourself, just take it to a shop to press out old and press in new bearing. And your on the road again. Not to hard.
~Alex
~Alex
#19
I plan on replacing it shortly, going to look after work today if I don't leave too late. I just wasn't sure that the droning was a bearing to begin with. As a general rule I wouldn't be ignorant and drive with something defective to try to "-intentionally-" kill someone. And inspection has never said anything about my car being a klunker. After having two mechanics not see anything wrong with the noise I considered it closed until the volume increase just recently after replacing the rotors. But I do appreciate the information provided and I'll look into bearings tonight.
#20
I only know how lax inspection is in Colorado: actually ONLY engine emissions... I say terriblese.
Pls raise the wheel and grasp it. No free play, no noisy ro***ion: keep drivin. If noisy etc, it just may be a real danger.
Have a safe day!
Pls raise the wheel and grasp it. No free play, no noisy ro***ion: keep drivin. If noisy etc, it just may be a real danger.
Have a safe day!
#22
lol: the autoeditor did not like the word ro_ta_tion...
Well, if its checked, then no real risk.
Swap your rear wheels to front, just for a tst.
If the noise is continuous, it has to come from rotation. Cannot be but the bearing, and/or smtg brushing the wheel or brake (there should be a real scratch to be seen).
If the bearing seal is viewable (never opened max rear bearing), u may try to lightly to pry it open for adding some lithium grease spray.
Well, if its checked, then no real risk.
Swap your rear wheels to front, just for a tst.
If the noise is continuous, it has to come from rotation. Cannot be but the bearing, and/or smtg brushing the wheel or brake (there should be a real scratch to be seen).
If the bearing seal is viewable (never opened max rear bearing), u may try to lightly to pry it open for adding some lithium grease spray.
#23
Originally Posted by Wiking
Thats what ppl tend to do, not to think whats life about, but turn volume, rock until the end.
When bearing is shot, u get a glimpse (maybe) of u stunt freewheeling rearwheel from mirror. Then dive into ditch.
Stop now an' think.
Whats left if that trigger point happens to be at 100mph?
When bearing is shot, u get a glimpse (maybe) of u stunt freewheeling rearwheel from mirror. Then dive into ditch.
Stop now an' think.
Whats left if that trigger point happens to be at 100mph?
#24
Originally Posted by aksansai
Lest you forget that additional friction in your wheel hub assembly equals:
- Poorer fuel economy.
- Increased tire wear (due to erratic rotation).
- More wear and tear.
- Possible damage (from abrupt failure).
#25
Originally Posted by 915spd
...be realistic. ..
Wheels are connected to vehicle via the bearing: When connection is lost, wheel will not follow the vehicle any more. This seldom happens in P. And some ppl get killed like this yearly, death is realistic, happens only once and cannot be started over.
So pls think.
#26
Originally Posted by 915spd
i still get 30 mpg. what's your point? sorry not to come off like an a-hole but my has 226,xxx on it already. it started a long time ago. if it's going to break, it's going to break. i'll just go out and buy another 3rd gen. they're everywhere.
30mpg? damn my car is messed up then. I get 25 highwayish and 20-22 combined city. I've seen up to 27 but no more than that. 168k on my max
#27
Originally Posted by john93se
30mpg? damn my car is messed up then. I get 25 highwayish and 20-22 combined city. I've seen up to 27 but no more than that. 168k on my max
Btw. Go get 'new' wheel hubs from junkyard.
#28
Originally Posted by Wiking
Lost wheel rollin to u 40mph is a killer.
Wheels are connected to vehicle via the bearing: When connection is lost, wheel will not follow the vehicle any more. This seldom happens in P. And some ppl get killed like this yearly, death is realistic, happens only once and cannot be started over.
So pls think.
Wheels are connected to vehicle via the bearing: When connection is lost, wheel will not follow the vehicle any more. This seldom happens in P. And some ppl get killed like this yearly, death is realistic, happens only once and cannot be started over.
So pls think.
#31
Originally Posted by kcidmil
Not if your car is lowered. My friend lost his wheel on his sentra while driving... that was cool
As u know, lost truck rearwheel nuts nad or wheels are missiles... My RV had real problem keeping the rear wheelpair nuts locked, one of the biggest pains.
#32
Originally Posted by 915spd
keep up on the tune ups and oil changed?
#33
Originally Posted by john93se
30mpg? damn my car is messed up then. I get 25 highwayish and 20-22 combined city. I've seen up to 27 but no more than that. 168k on my max
26.5 MPG... w/ the AC on. Some of that was even doing 85-90 MPH on the interstate. About 3/4 of the trip was doing 70 MPH though, and all of it was with the AC... Driving around with the AC never looked so good on my pocketbook.
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