Problem started on Monday afternoon. Left for lunch and car was running great – park it and it sits for about 45 mins. Ready to leave, start it up and dies right away. Start again and dies again. Start again and must keep running with gas pedal. Manage to limp back to work with stuttering and stalling at low rpm – 1,000 to 1,500. Surging and not much power during accelerating, then all of a sudden it decides to run steady and rpms climb strong as long as foot is pushing the accelerator. Then back to stuttering and stalling when slow back down. Holding steady speed I can feel slight surging, hesitation when push pedal in order to accelerate to higher speed. Then at the next stop light, the car is running fine holding a good idle (750 – 800) and off I go with no hesitation. Next light I am back to stalling.

It was raining Monday and I thought maybe the deep puddle (2-3 inches) in the parking lot I went through got something wet, but 3 days later and all electrical contacts under the hood got a good cleaning, new di-electric grease and it is still acting the same. Not a heat related problem since temp has been in 70’s and 80’s these past 3 days.

Replaced less than 7k miles ago: 6 injectors (all new), knock sensor (new), fuel filter (new), NGK platinum v-power plugs, replaced all fuel lines, replaced all vacuum lines looking cracked or worn.

Coil packs are all crack free.

I was thinking maybe fuel pump is deciding to go bad. Any thoughts or suggestions??
Car has 100k miles

Thanks, Paul

 

Pull the rear seat off (bottom part), check the fuel pump harness for resistance (check FSM or autozone guide for pins to test). If the resistance is greater than 0.5Ohm, pump is probably bad. My pump just went out on me a few weeks ago and the car just behaved erratically, stumbling randomly and hesitating at times. Good luck.

 

also check MAF

unplug it and start it up if it idles fine thats your problem

 

As, when, if MAF is bad, ECU drops engine into safe mode (only low rpm). When the fault is on, it may be diagnosed with multimeter. (link below)

 

does your "CEL" comes on?????

check your 02 sensor....try disconnecting it (harness is in the passenger side mounted in the engine mount) and driving the car...if it runs normal then theres your problem.

fyi......
if your "CEL" is not lit up....disconnecting the 02 will make it turn on.

 

Can you detail the symtoms a bit? Mine will act like someone shut off the engine!

 

No CEL on.
I have a new O2 sitting on toolbox waiting to be installed - I will try that as well as the fuel pump.

Thanks for all of the tips.........

 

Paul: why do you want to replace an O2S? Did you read the online diagnostic codes? You should be getting at least 10 flashes of the green LED in 5 seconds. If you are, your O2 is okay and you can save the new one until your old one goes bad.

 

Did you check the ECU for codes?

That's the first thing I would do. Something like this will probably send a code.

If it's not your fuel pump, it's probably one of the sensors (MAF, o2, tps, coolant temp sensor, etc.)

 

Seldom ECU gives Cell o'solos...

Measure primary/secondary resistances for all coilpacks(compare). Electronics inside, no cracks or resistance problems needed for malfunction.

 

CEL showed code 33 for O2 sensor.
New O2 sensor installed and car still won't idle right and sputters and eventually dies unless I keep running with gas pedal.
Read ECU again and it said 33. Do I need to clear it out to rid the original 33 code?
Giving up for the evening.

 

Air leak?

If I now take IACV air input hose out, engine dies. Pressing gas pedal over 1000rpm, no problems. see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/4

 

check your wiring, maybe the sensor was fine, but the wiring to the harness is bad

 

its the maf sensor cuz i had the same prob with my 92 gxe i had to put it in nutrual so it wont cut of and it has slow reaction when the pedel is pressed then you will need to replace that.

 

MAF sensor solved my problem of the dying - at least I can drive the car now.
Still a little lumpy idle, so continuing to troubleshoot. Also running rich.

Does the ECU need to be reset (disconnect battery cable or something) once it starts displaying a code?

Thanks everyone for the help....

 

hey im having the same problom with my 91 gxe i had chaged the rear valve cover gasket and put everything back together in one day i did not start it that day becuse i draned the oil and i was going to get the next day.so i put the oil in and new filter,plugs,air filter,cap,but have not chaged the rotor or fuel filter so i leave it siting for 2 weeks becuse battery was old and did not hold charge so buy the time i got the new one i start it and it cuts off right away its not the mafs its not the plug wires and i just want it to get this back up and runing at least does any one know why is this happening ????plez i would apreceate it thanks.

 

Try repAiring some of these: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1