maxi-freak

This post is for 3rdGene. He doesn't have an ISP at the moment. Anyhow,
there's some grinding when going into second gear on his manual tranny. I'm guessing syncronizing rings. It's a `91 SE. I made sure that the clutch has the proper free play. Shifting into other gears are fine.

Brad92SE

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, most likely its the synchros. Does it grind more when the car is cold?

maxi-freak

I'm not sure if it does or not - being the son's car.

maxi-freak

Actually I just spoke with 3rdGene and he says it doesn't grind cold. The higher the RPM the more the grind. If he lowers the RPM between shifts then it won't grind.

Wiking

One reason is water in fluid: when hot, the produced steam compresses in the work cylinder, piston movement is less and clutch will not disengage. Change fluid.

= there is a reason for suggested maintenance intervals.

Cannot say this is u problem, but cheap to tst.

Phatsta

My newly installed manual trans sound exactly the same as you are describing. I'm giving it a bit of time before making any troubleshooting though since it's only installed yesterday. Hard to belive mine is due to water in the oil though since I changed oil yesterday and the old oil was not miscolored or white in any kind, and now there's new oil in there.

With old cars you can alomst count on noises and grinds and I've learned to just ignore that since it's just one of those things and it doesn't affect the car any way it seems. Could it be the same for these trannys?

I'll keep an eye on this thread though!

Wiking

Limitations were/are:
1. Grinds only when hot
2. No fluid change during last 3yrs

If yours grinds always, possibly worn synchro. It should not. Tst try some other oil...

Phatsta

I don't know just yet if it only does it while hot or all the time since I havent really driven that much yet. (Gotta pay the government it's road tax and take it through emissions first)

I'm running on the oil it said in the FSM, well the closest I could find though... API GL5 80w/90 (from Biltema I might add ). In the manual it says to run an API GL4 oil and to choose an oil that's fitted to outside temp, hence the 80w.

Here it is: http://www.biltema.se/products/produ...&iItemId=91277
"Transmissionsolja för växellådor, slutväxlar, bakaxlar med hypoidväxel m.m.; där en olja av nivå API GL-5 föreskrivs. Ger ett bra korrosionsskydd och tillåter långa bytesintervall. OBS! Ej avsedd för automatväxellådor"

= Transmission oil for trannys, endgears, driveaxles with hypoidgears etc; where an oil with API GL-5 is recommended. Gives a good corrosion protection and allows long change intervals. Warning! Not for use in automatic trannys.

What other oil should I try, any suggestions?

Wiking

I know the dogs start to bark, but this was opinion of my business mate, a Gear/Hydraulics R&D guy given for my bluebird - Great idee:

The oil specs given to ur oldies were given in the 80's (remember, car design time used to be 5-8 yrs...), current synthetics were not available for reasonable cost. New synthetics motor oil quality surpasses the oldies, work better as thinner, still lubr better.

If u want, go googling articles on the oil classifications and what they represent.

On his rec, I have used 8yrs synthetic oil, biltema grade (AD shop). Great oil if u count the weather factor.

heck out the word THINNER: this has a relation how your synchro plates freewheel = grinDing...

Phatsta

Yeah synthetic oil is better from what I've read (the oil bible). Especially in temp differring countries as ours.

But what I also read is that this transmission oil contains some degree of parafin and therefore creates a protecting layer on all inside moving parts. My thought is what happens if you go with a non parafin oil?

Is it synthetic motor oil you mean?

Wiking

I think u know more than me of oil ingredients. I just told I beleived this guy*, and was happy. Synthetic Motor oil, Mobil Rallye-1. Cannot argue, but immediately I liked how gear change became smooth. And has lasted with me...

(This guy* was a materiel marvel databank: he could design in an instant needed bits with AUtoCad and 'throw' piec of 'junk' (to my sight at least), and out came a part where Olympys OR Nikon products were pale... It was sent to overseas customers same day. Created hydraulics systems on applications where nobody had ever reached... Then came Honeywell =moneyHell and bought the company, its owner shareholder value -pensionerfund/quarter system junked the local company which held 80% of world markets: 500ppl lost jobs, and their stupidotrial to send this Co. to california was a big joke. Well, ABB gulped this market seqment...)

Phatsta

Well thanks, if you have tried it and like it, that's good enough for me! I'll do an oil change, which I have planned anyway, this coming monday. I wanna do en extra oil change to flush out all potential stuff that doesn't belong there. Costly, but effective.

Sorry about your friends job, he sounds like a genius. Too bad to see those go. But that's what capitalist-wannabes do. I say wannabes because they really don't know how to earn the long-run big bucks, they can only see 6 months ahead and need to almost plunder the company in order to get what they want. They only dig a hole underneath themselves. If you wanna see how to really run a company, look at IKEA for example... Ingvar Kamprad really knows the secret, and he's just one in the bunch.

Wiking

True. Whats this txt doing at max -forum? Simply to give idea how companies work. A global company (like nissan) is a fightin arena of egos, cost reduction & whatever human stupidity. Thereby the solutions we find in vehicles, can always be done better this or that way...ALWAYS. The solutions we see, are the cheapest available solution at certain production moment to get money from customers; who cares anythin else that your OWN position in a organisation at the end of the quarter (3month)...

IKEA bought a piece of land in Esbå to build their shop 1967. The first shop opened at 1994 ...all this time locals could block out 'their' competitor. Now, thanks to IKEA, our furniture prices are 1/3 what they used to be...

Pervis Anathema

iTrader: (8)

My understanding is that GL-5 attacks the brass synchros in our trannys and is therefore not recommended.

Wiking

Yeah, all I know that u must be careful what u put in a gearbox. Do u have any more specific info? (I'm imbecile also in this issue).

Q2: is this max box different from nissans others?

Pervis Anathema

iTrader: (8)

I use Redline MT-90. Great stuff.

The Fluids and Lubricants forum has some good information.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=225766

maxi-freak

Well...I'm leaning towards the syncros in the transaxle. I replaced the axles on that car 6 months ago so the gear oil is new. He's gonna change it anyway just in case maybe some water got in there. If that were the case, you would think that it would crunch with other gears as well.