Max Broke Down(Very Weird) - Please Help
#41
From the moment I read this I thought timing belt, and you said you checked it that night, I found that a little hard to believe (no offense) because it's covered and I thought it may be a pain in the a$$ to take off the cover on the street, although not impossible. First and foremost check your timing belt, unfortunatly if it's off and was cranked, Im pretty sure the valves are going to be shot. After my belt was changed I drove it a bit and it started bucking badly, I immediatly turned off the car and got a tow to my real mechanic (not the crackhead friend of a friend who originally did it) and he said it was one tooth off and if I didnt stop when I did the engine would have been shot. He fixed it (for $70) and I havent had a problem since. Just my 2 cents.
#44
87 chevrolet celebrity 2.5 I yhink the vin code was U
stupid non-metal gears.
we pulled the whole motor to pull the cam on that one
of course 2 weeks later one of the mechanics had the bright idea to just lower the cradle a little on the one side ans notch the inner fender to be able to remove the cam while it was still in the car
that car was faster than my first max though :-\ (the car it replaced)
stupid non-metal gears.
we pulled the whole motor to pull the cam on that one
of course 2 weeks later one of the mechanics had the bright idea to just lower the cradle a little on the one side ans notch the inner fender to be able to remove the cam while it was still in the car
that car was faster than my first max though :-\ (the car it replaced)
#45
Okay.. To be able to take a look at my timing belt, should I
1)jack vehicle?
2)remove engine under covers and drain coolent from rad?
3)remove R.H. wheel?
4)remove following belts, alternator, power steering, compressor?
5)loosen crankshaft pulley bolt?
6)remove crank pulley with suitable puller?
7)remove upper radiator hose and water inlet hose?
8)remove compressor drive belt idler bracket?
9)remove water pump pulley?
10)remove front upper and lower belt covers?
Am I missing anything? Or would it be wiser just to do a compression test, and if theres no compression, then Im done for? Would the compression test really help diagnose a ripped timing belt? I was looking at a compression test kit today and it was like $37, so I don't know if it's worth getting if it's still not gonna tell me Im 100% finished with this engine. Thanks.
1)jack vehicle?
2)remove engine under covers and drain coolent from rad?
3)remove R.H. wheel?
4)remove following belts, alternator, power steering, compressor?
5)loosen crankshaft pulley bolt?
6)remove crank pulley with suitable puller?
7)remove upper radiator hose and water inlet hose?
8)remove compressor drive belt idler bracket?
9)remove water pump pulley?
10)remove front upper and lower belt covers?
Am I missing anything? Or would it be wiser just to do a compression test, and if theres no compression, then Im done for? Would the compression test really help diagnose a ripped timing belt? I was looking at a compression test kit today and it was like $37, so I don't know if it's worth getting if it's still not gonna tell me Im 100% finished with this engine. Thanks.
#46
doesnt your motor have to run or compression test??? dunno how it works....to look at timing belt, i think, not sure but i think, you remove the 3 belts, and basically anyhting in your way of gettting to the belt. i htink alternator, upper radiator hose, maybe water pump.
#48
ohm your spark plug wires over, they should all be within a few ohms of each other, if not replace then check your coil, sounds like an ignition problem, if that dont work disconnect your o2 sensor and try cranking my wouldnt turn over and when it did it ran rough till i diconnected the o2 sensor. these motors are solid and can take alot more neglect than domestic cars, stick with your ignition system the problem is there, follow the fsm and check every aspect of it till u find the fault.
#50
ok do me a favor go get new plugs and wires and try to start the bish.......youve said 3 wires didnt even spark...... if you still have a problem, then you need to move on to checking the fuel pump, does it gush fuel?? ok there then you need to get the timing belt looked at.
so lets recap
1. new plugs and wires
if ok then drive like you did
if not then chek fuel pump
if pump ok then move to timing belt
good luck dude.
so lets recap
1. new plugs and wires
if ok then drive like you did
if not then chek fuel pump
if pump ok then move to timing belt
good luck dude.
#52
Originally Posted by internetautomar
a compression test can be done as long as the motor cranks
Originally Posted by ron4291
ohm your spark plug wires over, they should all be within a few ohms of each other, if not replace then check your coil, sounds like an ignition problem, if that dont work disconnect your o2 sensor and try cranking my wouldnt turn over and when it did it ran rough till i diconnected the o2 sensor. these motors are solid and can take alot more neglect than domestic cars, stick with your ignition system the problem is there, follow the fsm and check every aspect of it till u find the fault.
Originally Posted by tripleGmax
ok do me a favor go get new plugs and wires and try to start the bish.......youve said 3 wires didnt even spark...... if you still have a problem, then you need to move on to checking the fuel pump, does it gush fuel?? ok there then you need to get the timing belt looked at.
so lets recap
1. new plugs and wires
if ok then drive like you did
if not then chek fuel pump
if pump ok then move to timing belt
good luck dude.
so lets recap
1. new plugs and wires
if ok then drive like you did
if not then chek fuel pump
if pump ok then move to timing belt
good luck dude.
#54
I vote timing belt. I think some people are shying away from it because you mistakenly told us that you had 'checked' it earlier in the thread, when you had in fact been checking an accessory belt. My dad had a Buick, I was driving to my aunt's house with my learner's permit, when I floored the thing pulling out of a gas station on a fast road. I then experienced the exact same symptoms you describe. Turns out, the timing CHAIN had snapped (so much for GM quality).
#55
Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
I vote timing belt. I think some people are shying away from it because you mistakenly told us that you had 'checked' it earlier in the thread, when you had in fact been checking an accessory belt. My dad had a Buick, I was driving to my aunt's house with my learner's permit, when I floored the thing pulling out of a gas station on a fast road. I then experienced the exact same symptoms you describe. Turns out, the timing CHAIN had snapped (so much for GM quality).
#56
Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
I vote timing belt. I think some people are shying away from it because you mistakenly told us that you had 'checked' it earlier in the thread, when you had in fact been checking an accessory belt. My dad had a Buick, I was driving to my aunt's house with my learner's permit, when I floored the thing pulling out of a gas station on a fast road. I then experienced the exact same symptoms you describe. Turns out, the timing CHAIN had snapped (so much for GM quality).
And if this engine is done for, it maybe kind of a relief for me, since I have been feenin for a VE with a 5-spd ever since I started learning about these cars, BUT Im really not lookin to buy another 3rd gen. I like this one I have a place to do the swap, and some good help when I need it. Can you recommend the best place for looking for this engine+tranny? Ebay? Thanks.
#59
yes they say change it at 60k.....but it could go a a little longer or it could crap out at 40....fords VG i think said to change the belt at 105,000 because it was made to be non-interference. So you can see why it should be changed at 60k.
before you go and get a ve 5spd swap "kit" just know for sure whats wrong with your current car....since its been this long and you havent figured out the problem dont you think you should take it to a trusted mechanic??
before you go and get a ve 5spd swap "kit" just know for sure whats wrong with your current car....since its been this long and you havent figured out the problem dont you think you should take it to a trusted mechanic??
#60
Originally Posted by tripleGmax
before you go and get a ve 5spd swap "kit" just know for sure whats wrong with your current car....since its been this long and you havent figured out the problem dont you think you should take it to a trusted mechanic??
#61
haha, well if you can fix it then fix it, but to me you dont even have a clue at whats wrong with it, so i dont see it getting fixed anytime soon. when i said trusted i meant trusted, you have to have a good mechanic around you. I care about my car and i take it to a mechanic, one i trust. im sure even some 4DSC enthusiast in NY would look at it as well if you refuse to take it to a mechanic. good luck man.
#62
Originally Posted by tripleGmax
haha, well if you can fix it then fix it, but to me you dont even have a clue at whats wrong with it, so i dont see it getting fixed anytime soon. when i said trusted i meant trusted, you have to have a good mechanic around you. I care about my car and i take it to a mechanic, one i trust. im sure even some 4DSC enthusiast in NY would look at it as well if you refuse to take it to a mechanic. good luck man.
All I have to say about the mechanic thing is, they seem to compare our cars to other cars since they work on many different models, and most cars all require different needs. Many think the 3rd gen has only one engine slash don't care. One man can't know everything. Plus I go to tech school, so I could use the practice.
Edit: And alot of the time(at least here in NY) the mechanic himself doesn't actually do the job. He assigns it to one of his little henchman, who has no respect for his nor your car. My favorite was overtorqued wheels, every time a wheel came off. I once caught a flat. Tried to change tire, pulled my back, broke my spare tool, broke a second lug wrench I bought from the nearest parts store.. Never got the tire off I later found out it was a bit over 120 ft.lbs. Mechanic clean for 8 months now...
#63
I definatly hear you on that mechanic situation, I know that my mechanic Ive been using for years is pretty good but he also passes the work off to cronies. I try to do most of the work myself, but when it came to the timing belt I left that to the mechanic, I didnt want to screw up the timing and blow my engine. I know he always makes up for any mistakes he makes, so he's good that way. That's why I consider him a "trusted" mechanic. To check the timing belt I think you could just take off the top cover which I dont think is all that involved, but then again I never did it myself.
#64
Originally Posted by greggie195
I definatly hear you on that mechanic situation, I know that my mechanic Ive been using for years is pretty good but he also passes the work off to cronies. I try to do most of the work myself, but when it came to the timing belt I left that to the mechanic, I didnt want to screw up the timing and blow my engine. I know he always makes up for any mistakes he makes, so he's good that way. That's why I consider him a "trusted" mechanic. To check the timing belt I think you could just take off the top cover which I dont think is all that involved, but then again I never did it myself.
#65
You should be able to see the timming belt, to know that it hasn't snapped right? (I dont' have a vg). And the likeliness that its jumped a tooth or more is verrrrry slim. You also said that the engine cranks (so your not smashing valves into the pistons because you'd hear all sorts of terrible noises), I think its electrical, ecu, mafs, ignition relay etc. fuse(s)
#66
Some1 H.E.L.P. please... I have a 92 MAX SE that I am in love with and my baby is sick. Drivin to casino and lights made a bright flash then car died. I popped the hood and saw that battery was cracked, split, and smokin. Replaced batt. and alternator and now blowin the electronic start fuse when the switch is moved to start position and no headlights, no fog lights, but i got park lights. I've done all that i know. PLEASE HELP ! ! !
#67
Originally Posted by scutdaddy
Some1 H.E.L.P. please... I have a 92 MAX SE that I am in love with and my baby is sick. Drivin to casino and lights made a bright flash then car died. I popped the hood and saw that battery was cracked, split, and smokin. Replaced batt. and alternator and now blowin the electronic start fuse when the switch is moved to start position and no headlights, no fog lights, but i got park lights. I've done all that i know. PLEASE HELP ! ! !
#68
Originally Posted by scutdaddy
Some1 H.E.L.P. please... I have a 92 MAX SE that I am in love with and my baby is sick. Drivin to casino and lights made a bright flash then car died. I popped the hood and saw that battery was cracked, split, and smokin. Replaced batt. and alternator and now blowin the electronic start fuse when the switch is moved to start position and no headlights, no fog lights, but i got park lights. I've done all that i know. PLEASE HELP ! ! !
#72
Originally Posted by scutdaddy
don't get mad bout the jackin fellas. we should be here to help each other instead of being concerned w/ minor things like that..come on we do share the same interests.
#73
in all honesty joe youve been given 3 pages of help....put yourself in his shoes. i mean you acted like seeing a message in this thread is like a golden ticket to fix your car. you have to check the stuff that people suggest.....ya know since you wont trust a mechanic....
#75
Originally Posted by tripleGmax
in all honesty joe youve been given 3 pages of help....put yourself in his shoes. i mean you acted like seeing a message in this thread is like a golden ticket to fix your car. you have to check the stuff that people suggest.....ya know since you wont trust a mechanic....
#77
Originally Posted by tripleGmax
my bad man, im not trying to rag on you, and no i dont want my thread jacked just like you.
you gonnna have time this weekend to check your timing belt?
you gonnna have time this weekend to check your timing belt?
#78
Don't put it off for later if you can do it now - Or this will happen!
Well, what can I say? Unfortunatly it was the timing belt afterall.
Yesteraday, as I was troubleshooting, the reason why I would only get spark from one of the wires is because the distributer was stuck in that one position that gives spark to that specific wire. The distributer won't rotate if the timing belt isn't there, is the conclusion me and my friend came to. Also, as I kept cranking, we heard a crazy whistle come out of the engine bay. We figured it was a bent valve not sealing. Super fast cranking as well gave me another reason to think it would be the timing belt. But I had to see it to believe it. To be sure, I went in this morning. Above is what I found.
Oh, and one more thing.. For those who knew, thank you very much for letting me know that I wouldn't need to do all that crap that I posted on doing, which I copied out of my FSM, just to get a sneak peek at my timing belt. Cool, I was actually about to do all of that stuff too.
To get a glimpse of my T-belt, all I needed to do was remove engine under covers, drain the coolant, remove the upper radiator hose, the one next to it, loosen some mounted hoses to get my hands close to the belt cover, remove most of the bolts of upper T-belt cover(major PITA.. couldnt even reach the one on the lower right no matter what I tried) And finally, just bent the cover a bit out of the way to reveal my nice shiny naked sprockets with a torn T-belt hangin out right over them. I knew I shoulda replaced the belt when I had a chance.
Well, thanks alot for all the help/feedback guys. As always, much appreciated.
P.S.- Is it a 100% thing, that when the T-belt breaks, my engine is finished? And yes, I've cranked it many times after the incident.
#79
I snapped a timing chain on my old LT1 camaro (forgot to put the harmonic balancer back on after putting the UDP on ) and 2 cylinders came up and slammed against the vavles. Unfortunately both heads had to come off and had to have the bent vavles replaced. I was lucky I didn't bend the rods otherwise I would've been totally screwed.
Same thing in your case. you just need to find out where the pistons came up and hit the vavles. You might be lucky and need only one head to come off instead of two.
Same thing in your case. you just need to find out where the pistons came up and hit the vavles. You might be lucky and need only one head to come off instead of two.
#80
Originally Posted by 5 ltr. beater
I snapped a timing chain on my old LT1 camaro (forgot to put the harmonic balancer back on after putting the UDP on ) and 2 cylinders came up and slammed against the vavles. Unfortunately both heads had to come off and had to have the bent vavles replaced. I was lucky I didn't bend the rods otherwise I would've been totally screwed.
Same thing in your case. you just need to find out where the pistons came up and hit the vavles. You might be lucky and need only one head to come off instead of two.
Same thing in your case. you just need to find out where the pistons came up and hit the vavles. You might be lucky and need only one head to come off instead of two.
One of these days, when Im bored, I'll take it apart and see what happened. When you say heads, you mean the valve covers? What would I need to take off to take a look at the damage done? Intake manifold, valve covers...? What else? I know Im probably gonna need that tool to take the valves out of those springs. If possibly I may get lucky as you said, how much you think it would run me just for parts?