Max Broke Down(Very Weird) - Please Help
08-01-2005, 01:52 PM
#82
I miss my VE
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
one question: how long had that TB been there? for how many miles I mean, do you know?
08-01-2005, 09:45 PM
#83
I don't know man, the timing belt looks pretty new, the teeth are pretty new, and there are no visible crack on the belt, no glazing either. Looking at the picture, I'm thinking that the mechanic who did it last did not tensioned it right, but then that brings another problem, if it wasn't tensioned right, wouldn't it snapped cam sprocket first, before self destructing itself?
08-08-2005, 03:57 PM
#84
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Originally Posted by disgruntled
I don't know man, the timing belt looks pretty new, the teeth are pretty new, and there are no visible crack on the belt, no glazing either. Looking at the picture, I'm thinking that the mechanic who did it last did not tensioned it right, but then that brings another problem, if it wasn't tensioned right, wouldn't it snapped cam sprocket first, before self destructing itself?
Anyway... To the rest of you......
I wanna pull the heads tommorrow. It doesn't need to be perfect, since Im probably going to get rid of the car anyway. Just wanna take a look at the damage I have done. Who knows, maybe I got lucky. Anyway, I got the FSM, but they don't say how to take it off step by step. Does anybody have any hints on performing a job like this, so I wouldn't end up taking off a million unnessacary things at once, and leaving myself clueless on where those freakin hoses go? Basically, whats the easiest way to check the damage I have done when my timing belt snapped is what I wanna know. Rip off the intake manifold, etc? If there is too much to list, forget it. I'll figure it out myself. I just don't know how hard it can be, since Im a first timer. Thanks.
08-08-2005, 05:03 PM
#85
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Sorry, about you timing belt man I know that it sucks. If I had seen this tread sooner would have told you that was exactly what it was, because it happened to me on a 93 ply. laser. it had f***ed up the heads bad, but I got em reworked and the car ran GREAT for about 3 more months and then the 2nd cylinder came apart on me i guess from the valves hitting into it so that is something you might want to think about if you do decide to keep the car. I spent like 600 for that work and then another 1800 for a new motor. BTW the Haynes book will tell you how to remove the cylinder heads.
08-08-2005, 10:05 PM
#86
I miss my VE
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Originally Posted by Burn MF Burn
Sorry, about you timing belt man I know that it sucks. If I had seen this tread sooner would have told you that was exactly what it was, because it happened to me on a 93 ply. laser. it had f***ed up the heads bad, but I got em reworked and the car ran GREAT for about 3 more months and then the 2nd cylinder came apart on me i guess from the valves hitting into it so that is something you might want to think about if you do decide to keep the car. I spent like 600 for that work and then another 1800 for a new motor. BTW the Haynes book will tell you how to remove the cylinder heads.
08-09-2005, 10:12 AM
#89
I miss my VE
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Originally Posted by kiyakerz
take a look at the heads and see how bad it is. Then take it to the desert (where I live) and blow it up. Don't forget to invite me. Then you can get a VE 5-spd 
... if you decide to revive it good luck
... if you decide to revive it good luck
08-09-2005, 12:22 PM
#91
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Originally Posted by Burn MF Burn
yea, you will see some damage to the valves maybe, maybe not and the pistons looked fine i didnt see where they were hit or anything but if you come across a good ve for the right price yank out the vg and drop it in
08-09-2005, 06:18 PM
#94
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Damn, Im stuck...
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As you can see it's stripped. Anybody know how I can get that out? I really don't have a drill or anything. Also those bolts are on really tight that the ratchet wasn't enough. Had to use the torque wrench. Thanks.
08-09-2005, 06:49 PM
#95
you should be spraying a pentreating oil, like liquid wrench or PB blaster when removing old rusted bolts like the one above. If you dont have a drill, and dont plan on getting one, the only thing i can think of is some vise-grips. But you should spray some PB Blaster first, on those bolts and tap with a hammer before trying to remove in the first place.
you are using a 6mm hex socket right...not a regular allen wrench.
you are using a 6mm hex socket right...not a regular allen wrench.
08-09-2005, 07:06 PM
#96
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Originally Posted by aminus21
you should be spraying a pentreating oil, like liquid wrench or PB blaster when removing old rusted bolts like the one above. If you dont have a drill, and dont plan on getting one, the only thing i can think of is some vise-grips. But you should spray some PB Blaster first, on those bolts and tap with a hammer before trying to remove in the first place.
you are using a 6mm hex socket right...not a regular allen wrench.
you are using a 6mm hex socket right...not a regular allen wrench.
08-10-2005, 04:18 AM
#98
I don't know about the other side of the bolt, but from what I can see, the bolt is only stripped at the top, and the bottom of the hex bit hole is still in good condition. May I ask what hex bit did you use to remove that bolt? When I replaced my valve cover gasket, I got those bolts loose on my first try with a 6mm hex bit and a regular craftsman ratchet. I know the bolts on my intake manifold cover were on there since the day the car was assembled, and this is a northeast car, so rust is a problem. I don't know if my reply had helped you some, but it's from my personal experience.
08-10-2005, 11:59 AM
#99
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Originally Posted by disgruntled
I don't know about the other side of the bolt, but from what I can see, the bolt is only stripped at the top, and the bottom of the hex bit hole is still in good condition. May I ask what hex bit did you use to remove that bolt? When I replaced my valve cover gasket, I got those bolts loose on my first try with a 6mm hex bit and a regular craftsman ratchet. I know the bolts on my intake manifold cover were on there since the day the car was assembled, and this is a northeast car, so rust is a problem. I don't know if my reply had helped you some, but it's from my personal experience.
08-10-2005, 02:32 PM
#102
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Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Well, what can I say? Unfortunatly it was the timing belt afterall.
Yesteraday, as I was troubleshooting, the reason why I would only get spark from one of the wires is because the distributer was stuck in that one position that gives spark to that specific wire. The distributer won't rotate if the timing belt isn't there, is the conclusion me and my friend came to. Also, as I kept cranking, we heard a crazy whistle come out of the engine bay. We figured it was a bent valve not sealing. Super fast cranking as well gave me another reason to think it would be the timing belt. But I had to see it to believe it. To be sure, I went in this morning. Above is what I found.
Oh, and one more thing.. For those who knew, thank you very much for letting me know that I wouldn't need to do all that crap that I posted on doing, which I copied out of my FSM, just to get a sneak peek at my timing belt. Cool, I was actually about to do all of that stuff too.
To get a glimpse of my T-belt, all I needed to do was remove engine under covers, drain the coolant, remove the upper radiator hose, the one next to it, loosen some mounted hoses to get my hands close to the belt cover, remove most of the bolts of upper T-belt cover(major PITA.. couldnt even reach the one on the lower right no matter what I tried) And finally, just bent the cover a bit out of the way to reveal my nice shiny naked sprockets with a torn T-belt hangin out right over them. I knew I shoulda replaced the belt when I had a chance.
Well, thanks alot for all the help/feedback guys. As always, much appreciated.
P.S.- Is it a 100% thing, that when the T-belt breaks, my engine is finished? And yes, I've cranked it many times after the incident.
08-11-2005, 09:03 AM
#106
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
of course they can. but expect them to be making noise first
R.I.P
08-11-2005, 05:56 PM
#109
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Originally Posted by camron21
It was at 216,000. So I guess it was about that time. I heard the ticking sound it was making like in the mornings, but I didn't pay much attention.
08-11-2005, 11:46 PM
#110
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Originally Posted by aksansai
But enough teeth jumped will prevent your motor from starting (lack of compression when fire is lit). It would explain the starter moving without turning the motor over. Check it, replace it, and drive it.
What? No matter what, if the starter spins the engine will spin as long as it's engaging. The starter not turning the mill over will have nothing to do with the belt, Unless you're hitting the valves and is seized!
08-12-2005, 06:12 AM
#111
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Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
A ticking sound that wasn't VTC related? How confusing...
08-13-2005, 12:31 AM
#112
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Originally Posted by camron21
Yeah, the ticking sound was the sound of that loose link hitting on the head cover as the chain spent!! It sucks, because I knew something was up, but not to that extreme!!
08-13-2005, 10:38 AM
#113
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Man, those GM chains are snapping left and right. So when your valves slammed the pistons, weren't your pistons also damaged?
And as far as the pistons go, they just got nicked a little. It was no biggie. Everything was fine.
08-13-2005, 05:56 PM
#114
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Originally Posted by 5 ltr. beater
No, they aren't snapping left and right. LT1 and ESPECIALLY LS1 chains are VERY sturdy. But like I said, i forgot to put the harmonic balancer back on when i was doing the UDP and the crankshaft was just vibrating itself to death when i would drive it.
And as far as the pistons go, they just got nicked a little. It was no biggie. Everything was fine.
And as far as the pistons go, they just got nicked a little. It was no biggie. Everything was fine.
So your pistons took the hit well, eh? What kind were they? Steel/Alum?
08-13-2005, 07:06 PM
#115
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Originally Posted by 5 ltr. beater
No, they aren't snapping left and right. LT1 and ESPECIALLY LS1 chains are VERY sturdy. But like I said, i forgot to put the harmonic balancer back on when i was doing the UDP and the crankshaft was just vibrating itself to death when i would drive it.
And as far as the pistons go, they just got nicked a little. It was no biggie. Everything was fine.
And as far as the pistons go, they just got nicked a little. It was no biggie. Everything was fine.
How exactly did you drive it without a balancer?????????? Didn't you notice that there were no pulleys for the belts? I'm just asking cause I think it would be pretty obvious?
08-13-2005, 07:15 PM
#116
Originally Posted by Red89maxima
How exactly did you drive it without a balancer?????????? Didn't you notice that there were no pulleys for the belts? I'm just asking cause I think it would be pretty obvious?
so that whole deal still doesn't make sense to me.
08-16-2005, 12:02 AM
#119
Originally Posted by internetautomar
the UDP should be a replacement for the harmonic balancer , I'd think.
so that whole deal still doesn't make sense to me.
so that whole deal still doesn't make sense to me.
08-16-2005, 12:04 AM
#120
Originally Posted by Red89maxima
How exactly did you drive it without a balancer?????????? Didn't you notice that there were no pulleys for the belts? I'm just asking cause I think it would be pretty obvious?
Keep in mind I was 19 when I had my LT1 camaro and I thought i knew it all.
