1. jeff: trying to hookup the motor out of the 89 camaro (TBI w/ electric fan)into the 80 camaro(wiring? that's for headlights!), sounds simple doesn't it?
the "89" motor (it's actually an 86 block, don't ask) had all the sensors and crapola. we're removing all of them because we aren't transferring over the computer.
right now I'm trying to find a Vaccum fitting for the booster, a radiator fan switch that's temp adjusatable and doesn't go into the radiator fins.
hookup a fuel pump we were going to do electric but that's gonna be a b!tch, so now We're gonna try mechanical (86 block so it looks like we can use one) we just have to worry about accessory interference because we kept the serpentine drive system off the 89.
I had an easier time doing the 80 camaro V8 into my 83 impala V6

2. Wiking:
a. I have done a test to see if an air filter affects gas mileage , and it does.
b. I also know that the pumps around here are accurate, the same MPG is attained regardless of who I fill up at. also we have inspectors here who go out to every station and verify the amount pumped. If the pump were to be off by even 1 gallon, it would make a seriuos difference in calculated mileage.

 

Read the arTicles about these gauge scams, theyre not mine to defend... The law dictated measurement test points fillup is ok even in the programmed scammer chips. Between those points, may be off one gallon. Good gauges are good gauges. [nonbribed] inspectors will surely jail the scammers.

Mpg with a engine becomes only from consumed gas: ECU makes sure every 13 measures of air is given one measure gas. ECU cannot know how air arrives to cylinders. Problems aside, energy (gas) needed is pure math of frictions, masses moved, humidity, etcetc variables. MOVEIT1.: give this amount of air, ECU gives exact amount of juice. MOVEIT2.: give less air, ECU calculates exactly how much less juice is injected. MAF does the measurement; O2 closes the verification loop.

When u change parameters, accel speed etc consumption will never be the same: less air = less hp. The mass/hp parameters have changed as air input is reduced... this is what u have measured. But flat road, steady 50mph, restricted/nonrestricted airflow: mpg using a electronic flow gauge will show same mpg.

I am NOT saying that its wise not to replace filters.

 

...........

 

Did you check Wiking's cardomain pages for the vacuum repair walkthrough? Sounds like you did not...

Another few things to look at would be your alignment, tire pressure and tread. Are you running winter snows on steel rims by any chance?

 

Maybe it's not your engine. Have you considered tire pressure?

Otherwise.. this is a good topic for the Wiki.

 

I confirm that the air filter makes difference in MPG. I used an aftermarket one and was not happy. Replaced it with Nissan filter and the gas had simply froze in the gage.

 

Feel free to contribute these great ideas:

"Gasoholics Anonymous" section created

 

Tire pressure affects measured mileage just like actual wheel diameter. Stock vehicle gauge mileage measurement itself can be wrong up to 10% (1-4% error is common).

Hypothesis (simplified example) with oversize BIG wheels: u could have -10% error in distance measurement:
1. your mileage is thus 10% less than actual
2. your speedo is showing 10% less, so actual speed is goin to be 10% more (=consumption up maybe 5%)

...total mpg could be down up to 15%, not to speak of tickets.

Next take into account all the other error sources... too blk pic?

 

i agree with you on small error margin, wiking

adub's air filter is aftermarket but it seems ok in good condition, and if many usual things have been replaced in the engine bay to help gas mileage then i would think that its the wheels that drag it down.

it may seem unreasonable but analogously an axle has to move more solid material. those wheels are damn sweet though...

 

I confirm that the air filter makes difference in power. I used an Nissan and was not happy. Replaced it with FRAM filter and the rubber had simply been burning ever since...

 

I've taken the worst case -aspect on the error margin -table.

Good point: quite little brake pad drag takes mpg down... Check out that rear wheel is free.

(Biggest consumption wheel is still between the drivers ears.)

 

try to use your overdrive & cruise more often for one of those long roads even if they're not hw and you gotta cruise at 40, then do it. i did that and went up from 15mpg all the way up to 21mpg for all city driving.

 

The Maxima A/T gears 3/4 lock mechanically in steady drive; with cruise on, youre making sure it stays that way (about 10% better preformance). The lock feature needs 20min warmup first. This and short drive overall kills mpg, especially A/T.

On hilly grounds cruise might still actually increase consumption as it tends to be always late in 'pushing pedal'.

 

So could you tell a difference in gas mileage in a cone k/n air filter mounted straight to the maf vs. a stock new k/n filter in stock housing

Which one would produce better mileage

Also if you think your rear brakes are draging just a little....... Do you think i could stop them from draging by taking some brake fluid out of the brake fluid container.

Currently i have the fluid level in the brake contianer at the max line

Any suggestions Thanks guys

 

You need to have sensitive electronic fuel gauge (or go dyno) and test. Before that, its not possible to be sure which type is best. Maybe smbdy has tested these in dyno, dunno? The filter question is not only cone -shape, but also the quality of filtering paper, square area and accumulated dirt.

I think that generally cone filter has potential for more airflow, if so, then cylinders get more air. Means more power, as proportionally more gas is fed. Mpg has direct connection to THE used power, as all power comes from gas.

Brake Fluid level has no connection in this. Stuck handbrake wirings and/or calipers may cause drag, might need repair/replacement. Raise wheels up and tst...

 

I raised the rear of the car and they feel like they are draging a little bit

How much resistance should the wheels give me when i try to push them?

It could be that the wheel actually has that much resistance!
Thanks Wiking

 

Excellent wheel will rotate by itself few sec after push. Mine do not... Its ok if u can rotate tire with one finger gentle push...

Grasp firmly the handbrake wires and bend them back&forth. If any change in rotating resistance, you possibly have rusted wires -problem.

 

My wheels almost take two hands to move them and i hear something scraping / grabing

Any simple remedy for this I am going to change the pads soon and i will be in there

Thanks Wiking

P.S. ( Wiking respond to my post on the keyless entry thread Thanks soo much )

 

could be frozen caliper. i need to replace one of mine i just havent had time.

 

A frozen caliper willl still allow the car to move?

 

Your calipers are stuck. Pad Swap: The piston position (IF u can press em in) will change with new pads, possibly changes/hlps situation. Remember to rotate the piston while pressin in...

Buy the special brake grease: get a injection plastic needle (whatever but no needle), fill it with this grease, squirt in around the dust rubber cover. This greasing should be done always when u buy a ol car...

Caliper recondition is a must if this issue will not settle with this. Otherwise the brakes heat and fry your bearings.

So u did get the keyless to work?

 

Yes, the car will still move even with a seized ebrake. I had frozen calipers and noticed that by gas mileage too a few years ago. The wheels are supposed to be easily rotated. Look into lubricating the caliper pins and rebleed. Sometimes they can seize only due to a small bubble of air that does not let the piston to be pushed out, once you rebleed and enough pressure is created, the old caliper will still work fine with the pins lubricated.

 

Ok that helps sounds like i just need to lube and exercise the caliper to see if it will work if not i will blead it out. Thanks guys

 

You'll have to bleed anyway

 

Yes, bleeding belongs to scheduled maintenance, minimum once in 3yrs. If not, car sits like yours... While in this business, inspect/view all the long brake lines by knocking them through: they might be rotten from inside (dangerous).

Why bleeding:
Air condensation seeps into brake liquid and rusts whole system from inside. Also water might start boiling and you lose suddendly your brakes to vapors.

Caliper maint:
Yes, like tarzan noted pins have to be greased. But only under the caliper piston/cylinder dust shield area needs to have the special brake grease. This shields from outside rust.

 

oK I UNDERSTAND KNOW thanks guys

 

thought I'd just chime in and tell you our gas prices over here, since you're at 2,47 per U.S gallon (I heard someone say) or something like that...

well calculated with todays rate we pay 5,86 per gallon. don't you just love that

the price is almost at 12 swedish kronor per litre. one U.S gallon is 3,785 litre. 1 U.S dollar is 7,72 SEK = 5,86 per gallon.

edit: might add that about 75% of that is tax. and tax on taxes actually

 

...towing those blk gvmt ghost sosdem -limousines, makes mpg terriblese.

 

someone told me you waste less gas if you drive with overdrive off on the freeway and then it's fine with overdrive off in the city


mpg #'s coming soon

 

overdrive is like "5th gear" for our autos, if youre running with it off on highway driving youre def. not getting the best gas mileage.

in town, just leave it on unless youre going up a steep hill. otherwise it will save you gas in town as well.

 

How so?

 

its like driving on highway in 4th instead of 5th........make sense?

 

Local gas station owner eg. your best friend? His idea: The higher your rpm, the better friend u will become...

 

Ok, i think i know what that's means but whatever

Ok, i get 225mpg

I believe that that is horrible

 

Maybe 22.5? Thats citydrive with A/C on. Steady flat highway is 28-30mpg - when all things function as they should.

There are lots points in tune-up list (maxima is loaded) that affect mpg. I've done a collection on my cardomain pages for VGE, check.

Another biggie is drivin behaviour; keeping rpm down is one point in that list.

If u have problems after 'correctin' all those, there is no other way but to buy a tiny whiny diesel... but with such dirt cheap gas u have, I cannot see any problem.

 

225 is really bad, i get usually 400

 

I normally get about 200 if I push it

 

My odometer was broken for quite a while, thus I did not have any reliable number for my MPG. But today I summed up my weekly mileage for the past few months (about 10 tanks of gas) and calculated, that my mixed HW+town with town prevailing mileage takes a tad over 10 liter/100 kms, or about 38 MPG. I am using Sunoco 91 octane with 20° timing, all stock engine with platinum plugs, Nissan filters, mineral oil and removed intake pipe. I used to keep the tranny in Comfort but switched to Normal about a year ago for the constant feeling of the lack of power.

 

i think your odometer is still broken 38 is


how many miles can you get to a tank tarzan?

 

Yes, 38 is BS! I converted liters into gallons, but forgot to convert kilometers to miles. 24 MPG that is.