new intake and some questions
new intake and some questions
recently I just installed a new intake... it was a real quick job by my dads friend. Basically we mounted a big cone on the end of my MAF and made sure it was sealed. Now the cone sits where the air box used to be. I'm wondering if having it setup like that will make me lose power stay the same or gain? My car is definately louder, but alls I really wanted was for the car to breath better. I'm noticing my car is running a bit slower. Could that be because its sucking in hot air? I mean at times my car feels normal but others it just feels like really slow. Reason I'm asking is because I think my exhaust manifold studs are broken on the front and even though the exhaust leak noise goes away after I've been driving for a while the car still feels slow. Could the broken studs have anything to do with my power loss? I'm tempted to put back my stock air box to see if that makes a difference, but I wanted ot know if my position was bad first.
cone filter will make very little if any at all improvement at all versus stock, but it does allow the engine to breath a little better, and the sporty sound is a bonus. The broken exhaust stud WILL cause the car to loose some power, and thus the lack of response.
Originally Posted by kiyakerz
but the cone filter will never make me lose power, correct?
I did what you mentioned above and noticed a slight increase. Maybe 1 or 2 hp. The low range torque improved. Maybe it's the filter you are using. Or as said above, it may be dirty.
Also... where is the general location where you secured the filter. I noticed that attaching it to the old air box mounting bracket gave the best results. Click on the Maxima link below, and go to my Engine page to see pics
Also... where is the general location where you secured the filter. I noticed that attaching it to the old air box mounting bracket gave the best results. Click on the Maxima link below, and go to my Engine page to see pics
Originally Posted by kcidmil
I did what you mentioned above and noticed a slight increase. Maybe 1 or 2 hp. The low range torque improved. Maybe it's the filter you are using. Or as said above, it may be dirty.
Also... where is the general location where you secured the filter. I noticed that attaching it to the old air box mounting bracket gave the best results. Click on the Maxima link below, and go to my Engine page to see pics
Also... where is the general location where you secured the filter. I noticed that attaching it to the old air box mounting bracket gave the best results. Click on the Maxima link below, and go to my Engine page to see pics
Originally Posted by vansskaterfreek
is it beter if i woudl make a custom job to go right behind the bumper, will that increase HP a little more???
vansskater, the one that goes behind the bumper is called a CAI, and the one that sits where the stock airbox used to be is called a HAI, and quite a few people who had them on have written reviews on them. To sum it, the gain is so small, you most lilkely will not notice it at all.
vansskater, the one that goes behind the bumper is called a CAI, and the one that sits where the stock airbox used to be is called a HAI, and quite a few people who had them on have written reviews on them. To sum it, the gain is so small, you most lilkely will not notice it at all.
I like my cai. BTW. The behind the bumper one is not commerically available unless I decide to make them again. At least for the VE. I don't think anyone is making the VG versions anymore either.
In the winter, cai, hai, bah all the same really. Summer time, I've noticed a much more consistent low end power from my cai. Especially from a stop.
I can drive on the hottest days, open the hood and the piping is actually cold. But stop at a light and the pipes really heat up. Takes some time to cool off the pipes again. Nothing really to make of this. Only to say, the underhood temps really get up there while at a light. So for a short time, your maf/ecu is going to read some pretty hot air and fuel/ign time accordingly until you get moving. All of this takes time. However short. But since I do alot of stoplight stuff + the VE needs as much low end it can get, I think my cai is a good thing. Minor but IMHO there is a small diff. Plus since it sits higher than the traditional cais and because it sits in a much cleaner area, the filter stays drier and cleaner much longer.
In the winter, cai, hai, bah all the same really. Summer time, I've noticed a much more consistent low end power from my cai. Especially from a stop.
I can drive on the hottest days, open the hood and the piping is actually cold. But stop at a light and the pipes really heat up. Takes some time to cool off the pipes again. Nothing really to make of this. Only to say, the underhood temps really get up there while at a light. So for a short time, your maf/ecu is going to read some pretty hot air and fuel/ign time accordingly until you get moving. All of this takes time. However short. But since I do alot of stoplight stuff + the VE needs as much low end it can get, I think my cai is a good thing. Minor but IMHO there is a small diff. Plus since it sits higher than the traditional cais and because it sits in a much cleaner area, the filter stays drier and cleaner much longer.
Originally Posted by disgruntled
nope, once the car is moving, the air under the hood is only a couple of degrees warmer than the ambient temperature.
Originally Posted by disgruntled
cone filter will make very little if any at all improvement at all versus stock, but it does allow the engine to breath a little better, and the sporty sound is a bonus. The broken exhaust stud WILL cause the car to loose some power, and thus the lack of response.
Jeremy
Wrong. Leaks in the exaust affect the scavenging effects and introduce odd 02 readings to the ecu. The closer the leak is to the heads and the bigger the leak, the more pronounced the effect on the engine's power.
Originally Posted by maxmaxima91
A broken exhast stud isnt going to make you loose power. all it is is a leak in the exhast. they sound horrible but how would they effect power.
Jeremy
Jeremy
Originally Posted by maxmaxima91
... how would they effect power....y
- how a leak affects O2 sensor? ...could (?) ruin the input ECU receives. Wrong input causes wrong output (here injection).
- if pressure buildup restricts engine, leaking some pressure could hlp [if O2 input is not effected]
kiyakerz: Maybe u Knock Sensor is faulty? Intermittent ignition retard... definite power loss. After ten years its a miracle if KS works.
the effects on scavageing would be unnoticeable. and besides even if it effected the o2 readings the the ecu goes out of closed loop when under heavy load. if the manifold was falling of or there was a decient sized gap in between the head and manifold then i could belive power effects.
Small leak = probably nothing. But as the leak gets worse, the power WILL go down. No question. And the closer to the head = the worse the power loss.
I had a leak in my flex pipe (more than once) each time, the low end would suffer. Each time I welded up a new flex, power comes back. I've also had a pretty bad leak from a stud. Same basic problem. Leave the leak at the manifold long enough, it will get worse and it will start affecting the power.
Also the ecu only goes into open loop at WOT.
I had a leak in my flex pipe (more than once) each time, the low end would suffer. Each time I welded up a new flex, power comes back. I've also had a pretty bad leak from a stud. Same basic problem. Leave the leak at the manifold long enough, it will get worse and it will start affecting the power.
Also the ecu only goes into open loop at WOT.
Originally Posted by maxmaxima91
the effects on scavageing would be unnoticeable. and besides even if it effected the o2 readings the the ecu goes out of closed loop when under heavy load. if the manifold was falling of or there was a decient sized gap in between the head and manifold then i could belive power effects.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Small leak = probably nothing. ...
my 1993 se did not have a stock airbox when i got it, but i cannot say if it helps or not, since the car runs like crap anyway.
i had a cai on my jeep cherokee last year, but the rubber 'bushings' between the pipe and the filter melted and got sucked into the throttle body. suxxors! i about never got that cleaned out. don't buy cheap autozone crap.
i had a cai on my jeep cherokee last year, but the rubber 'bushings' between the pipe and the filter melted and got sucked into the throttle body. suxxors! i about never got that cleaned out. don't buy cheap autozone crap.
well, i don't know if any of you recall my other post with a video clip. But that noise my car made was pretty freaking loud. But it goes away as i am driving. So the exhaust leak can't be in affect all the time... or can it? even though the noise goes away? *confused*. the noise was coming from the front of the engine towards the bottom from what i could tell. =p
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Also the ecu only goes into open loop at WOT.
Dunno. My VE redlines at 7200 rpm. If it's out of closed loop at something as low as 4800 rpm (not rpms), that would mean I'm out of c loop for the majority of the time I'm driving.
Originally Posted by maxmaxima91
The ecu goes out of close loop above certain theoretical Pulsewidths on the fuel map. varing at different rpms and is always out above 4800 rpms. just some useless knowledge. thats on a stock vg map by the way. i imagine a ve is only slightly different along those lines
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