3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994) Learn more about the 3rd Generation Maxima here.

Rotor button

Old Aug 9, 2005 | 11:16 PM
  #1  
str8max's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 417
Rotor button

How the hell do you replace this thing...I cannot it off

thanks
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 12:28 AM
  #2  
souporman's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 17
There's one screw holding it down in the back. You just have to take out the screw and pull straight up. Don't forget to mark the position of the button before you take it out. And a word of warning when you put on the new screw, when it gets tight and is torqued to spec, stop screwing! I keep going and broke the head once.
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 01:29 AM
  #3  
str8max's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 417
Ok the one that was on there was hard as crap to get off....so i got it off and replaced plugs, wires, dis. cap, rotor button and now the car will not start.....got any ideas?
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 01:35 AM
  #4  
Phatsta's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 465
Originally Posted by str8max
Ok the one that was on there was hard as crap to get off....so i got it off and replaced plugs, wires, dis. cap, rotor button and now the car will not start.....got any ideas?
I'm assuming it does crank anyway?

1. How did you put on the new wires? Rip them all off and then put in the new ones or did you go one by one? What I'm asking is are you sure you got them in correct order?

2. Did you get the dist cap on alright, the right way etc?

If the car started before you did this, and you haven't done anything else then just go over everything again and again until you find your problem. As a last resort replace dis cap and/or rotor with the old ones and see if that works, you might have a faulty, even though new, part.
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 06:07 AM
  #5  
Geerhed's Avatar
Moved on to BMW's :(
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 268
From: Kittery, Maine
As I recall, the distributor cap and rotor are both "keyed" so they can only go on one way, yes? Check that.

Wires: check that the plug wires are going to the correct cylinders. One switched pair of wires can really screw up the engine, if it fires at all.
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 08:19 AM
  #6  
str8max's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 417
you are correct about them being keyed they can only go one way.....I was very careful changing plugs and wires I have done that many times.....but like i said the rotor was hard as hell to get off!!!

I did pick up another rotor today and it looks more like the one that came off....I got is a NAPA where as the other came from Autozone.

I am at work so haven't had a change to install.

any other suggestions
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 09:29 AM
  #7  
customcracka's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 18
Take your cap off and crank the motor to make sure the rotor is turning. Maybe because it was so hard to get off you damaged the dist?
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 01:26 PM
  #8  
aminus21's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,019
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Geerhed
.... One switched pair of wires can really screw up the engine, if it fires at all.

what kinda damage can it do. I accidentally installed wires the wrong way (switched 6 with 4), and it ran like crap for about a 200yards. Then I found out, and switched them back..any long term damage possible??
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 02:58 PM
  #9  
str8max's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 417
GOT IT......Bad rotor button!!....Damn Autozone
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 03:02 PM
  #10  
camron21's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 69
Bad Rotor Button, is crucial
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 03:02 PM
  #11  
camron21's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 69
Originally Posted by souporman
There's one screw holding it down in the back. You just have to take out the screw and pull straight up. Don't forget to mark the position of the button before you take it out. And a word of warning when you put on the new screw, when it gets tight and is torqued to spec, stop screwing! I keep going and broke the head once.
Yeah I had 1 break off too!
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 03:03 PM
  #12  
camron21's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 69
Originally Posted by Geerhed
As I recall, the distributor cap and rotor are both "keyed" so they can only go on one way, yes? Check that.

Wires: check that the plug wires are going to the correct cylinders. One switched pair of wires can really screw up the engine, if it fires at all.

Are all of them keyed??
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 04:01 PM
  #13  
Geerhed's Avatar
Moved on to BMW's :(
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 268
From: Kittery, Maine
Originally Posted by aminus21
what kinda damage can it do. I accidentally installed wires the wrong way (switched 6 with 4), and it ran like crap for about a 200yards. Then I found out, and switched them back..any long term damage possible??
If it fires, the plug can start combustion in a cylinder when it's not "ready" for it. Usually, combustion happens when both intake and exhaust valves are closed, and the piston is at or just past top dead center. At this point, even though it's quite a little explosion in there, the energy from the blast is safely dissipated in three ways: heat, sound, and kinetic energy forcing the piston down into the cylinder (and thus turning the crankshaft, passing the energy out through the transmission and to your tires). That part of the four-stroke cycle is called the "power stroke."

If the cylinder detonates at a time OTHER than the power stroke (i.e. when the cylinder is on its way UP, just before the normal compression time, the valves are open, or in the process of opening or closing, etc.), you can bend or break valves and/or valve springs. You can bust a hole through your piston (did this one myself), bend a connecting rod, destroy your piston rings, score a cylinder, bend a crankshaft... All nasty stuff. And, all "worst case scenarios."

However, if you only went for a very short distance, corrected it, and the car seems to be running fine, you probably got away with it. Telltale signs of damage would be white or blue smoke out the exhaust, a lot of "tapping" from under one of the valve covers, any other unusual noises, overheating... Usually, if there's that level of damage, there is no "I wonder if it's OK" about it. These problems make themselves known in obvious ways.

Glad you figured out your problem.
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #14  
aminus21's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,019
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Geerhed
If it fires, the plug can start combustion in a cylinder when it's not "ready" for it. Usually, combustion happens when both intake and exhaust valves are closed, and the piston is at or just past top dead center. At this point, even though it's quite a little explosion in there, the energy from the blast is safely dissipated in three ways: heat, sound, and kinetic energy forcing the piston down into the cylinder (and thus turning the crankshaft, passing the energy out through the transmission and to your tires). That part of the four-stroke cycle is called the "power stroke."

If the cylinder detonates at a time OTHER than the power stroke (i.e. when the cylinder is on its way UP, just before the normal compression time, the valves are open, or in the process of opening or closing, etc.), you can bend or break valves and/or valve springs. You can bust a hole through your piston (did this one myself), bend a connecting rod, destroy your piston rings, score a cylinder, bend a crankshaft... All nasty stuff. And, all "worst case scenarios."

However, if you only went for a very short distance, corrected it, and the car seems to be running fine, you probably got away with it. Telltale signs of damage would be white or blue smoke out the exhaust, a lot of "tapping" from under one of the valve covers, any other unusual noises, overheating... Usually, if there's that level of damage, there is no "I wonder if it's OK" about it. These problems make themselves known in obvious ways.

Glad you figured out your problem.

thnx geerhead. i noticed that I had the 4 and 6 wires crossed after about 5 minutes. the engine was sounding really bad, and it was backfiring when I revved it up. I switched the wires, and it ran fine..(except for a lack of power...which i am still trying to figure out..this was happening before the wires)
Old Aug 11, 2005 | 06:06 AM
  #15  
Geerhed's Avatar
Moved on to BMW's :(
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 268
From: Kittery, Maine
Originally Posted by aminus21
(except for a lack of power...which i am still trying to figure out..this was happening before the wires)
Check the compression in each cylinder. I'm not sure what the specs are, but I'm sure somebody here on the 'org can.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tarun900
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
19
Dec 20, 2021 06:57 PM
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
Apr 16, 2020 05:15 AM
worldwiderecognized
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
0
Sep 30, 2015 01:16 PM
Socalstillen
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
1
Sep 26, 2015 12:01 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:27 AM.