Changed out those coil packs, and still have the same problem.

Rough idle, bouncy at times, and trying to maintain a steady speed at anything under 55mph or so and I get hesitation/surging (not a big surge, just enough to feel like a rough ride) 'til I mash the gas a little more.

I'm debating on what to buy next - TPS? O2 sensor? Timing issue perhaps? Fuel pressure regulator?

 

check your vacuum lines

 

I've like gone over those lines a couple of times, if there's a leak I can't seem to find it.

Sigh.

I'm beginning to wonder if I should've just bought another altima.

 

sell it and buy another one

 

did you ever check it for codes?

I would be leaning toward IACV or something vacuum related. I would also change out the coolant temp sensor, since it cost $20 and takes 2 minutes to swap in.

 

Sorry if someone has already suggested it, but have you checked your MAF sensor?

 

I did the MAF check, but apparently that doesn't mean much (disconnect while the engine is runnning and it shuts off). Maybe that's my next step.

Coolant temp sensor I probably will change just because it's inexpensive, but I don't want to buy too many new parts with no results.

 

- plugs?
- IACV dirt ruins Idle Adj Ctrl Valve -operation ...open, clean
- TPS affects only on cold engine (plus always A/T)
- If MAF disconnect kills warm engine, O2 possibly bad
- fuel pressure... verify
- If connectors oxidized, nothin hlps (except cleanup)

 

You didn't answer my question...

Did you check for codes?

That could be a big key. Your engine can throw codes and not show a CEL.

 

Hey I know this is an old thread now but have you checked the timing? My car also felt rough at 2000rpms which is the most it would rev to, and would only reach 45-50 slowly. Perhaps you need a new timing belt..

 

It just seems like it's missing, with my Dynomax exhaust I can definitely hear it going put-put every few seconds or so; driveability is ok other than cruising in gear at 2000 rpms or less. I figure that's either timing or maybe the O2 sensor?

Oh, and btw cliff, I DID check codes, I just got a 5-5, and that was it. I figured the MAF would give me stuttering/bucking throughout the driving range, not just below 2000 rpms....or would it?

 

JUST TAKE IT TO A SHOP MAN AND MAKE THEM FIND OUT WHAT'S WRONG. SOMETIMES THIS MOVE WIlL SAVE YOU A lot of time and money. Find out what's up and go home and fix it.

 

Thats what I usually try to do but sometimes at shops they're like "there's a charge for checking on the computer" so if you're real cheap and looking forward to free estimates you might have trouble finding a shop for that. If you're ok with paying then I think its between 40-60 bucks for computer diagnostic. He's right though it could save you time. Even if you dont do the diagnostic the mechanic might say according to your description of the problem, "oh that sounds like bla bla bla" thats where you can start searching

Disregard the lil icon, I just felt like clicking on it and go lazy to delete it.

 

To check the vacum lines, spray on/around them with carb cleaner or any other flamable spray, if there is a vacum leak, the idle will rise and smooth out, as the spray acts like extra fuel to richen the mixture (it gets sucked into the manifold). toyota 22RE truck motors are bad about that, they will idle like crap with the tiny-est of vacum leaks.
Yeah, maybe also check/ have someoneelse check the TPS or O2.

 

yeah, oh second thought it may just be a spastic IACV. (I like tater tots)

 

^^^^ hadn't thought about that. Hmm.

Yeah, I worry about the "diagnostic" thing, I've been to many a shop that was inept, and they'd just plug in the computer/check the ECU and tell me they don't see what's wrong, it might be this. I did so much work on my old car myself, I'm confounded by this one but hate to give up.

It is driveable though, no more sudden deceleration, no more cutting off, just hesitation at certain rpms. And I can't quite seem to manage more than 22mpg.

 

Hey be happy you get 22mpg, I get 17-19 city and 20-24 highway about 22 mixed. and thats on a crappy 2.0 89 Accord LX. for being a 3.0 maxima its pretty good IMO

 

are those coilpacks new? or have they been at least verified to work properly? a coil can look fine and still give you drama. I have noticed that the front three coilpacks will give hesitation...while the rear three give the stalling. Make sure you have NGK Plugs old nissan tech told me that non NGK plugs have a tendency to make the coilpacks "spike" and in some cases gives the bad coil symtpoms.

good luck

 

yeah, well, I didn't try NEW coilpacks but I did buy some off of a member here, and the issue was exactly the same, like I hadn't changed them at all. I am running NGK coppers as well.

 

Knock Sensor dead =retarded ign. Buy/Lease tester from autozone -or- install 5c KS bypass resistor for tst purposes.

 

No Absolutely not on the knock sensor. He said his engine has a misfire, no knock sensor would cause that. Poor Gas Mileage and "heatsoak" but not a misfire. I would be looking at those used packs of yours. I know for fact between the sets you have you have 6 working ones. Start you car at night and see if you can see the coils glow. If its missing you will see this especially with the rear bank. Also plugging and unplugging each individual cylinder while the engine is running is a cheap way to check. If the engine doesnt act up when you pull the plug somethings not right.

Coil Packs on the VE are an enigma..they can look fine...smell fine...test fine..but under certain loads be "bad". If you know someone with a VE thats not stalling skipping swap em for a few days to see if the problem goes away. Inspect the coil packs you have for cracks...toss the ones that do ....and wrap each one in electrical tape. Use some lectra-mate contact cleaner on the ground points and internal springs. Trail and error with the coil packs you have. When you pulled your plugs which looked fouled and which looked ok. That a pretty good indication of your coil packs as well.

good luck and update me!
RH

 

Mr. italiano Spin Zone:

Yes Absolutely yes THE knock sensor.... Knock Sensor dead =retarded ign. --->..."no more sudden deceleration, no more cutting off..."

Misfire. Not caused by Knock sensor. (I did not say so). Hurricane. Not mr Bush. What actually were all those problems ? bundled in the text...

 

[QUOTE=thajones]It just seems like it's missing, with my Dynomax exhaust I can definitely hear it going put-put every few seconds or so; driveability is ok other than cruising in gear at 2000 rpms or less. I figure that's either timing or maybe the O2 sensor?[QUOTE=thajones]

I can see why you may be lead to the KS...but the above qoute dismisses that entirely. I never said that you said it or I would have qouted it.

Now the Bush thing...I dont know how that clown got re-elected...seems like everywhere I turned people thought him incompetent.

Prediction
Watch how fast he handles hurricane rita now ...one because he has practice (he has tons of of the job training with national crisis since so many happen on his watch) , and two cuz its heading for texas (his home state).

3 more years and 4 months of this moron

 

[QUOTE=96ItaliaSE]Yes, Bush was responsible of last years German floods (by die zeitung?). 150 years ago there was similar flood, must have been his granpapapapapapaaaa's fault. And if .....rats use levee money to six casinos, private jets, and bush cuts money from such levee program, of course levee breaks is his fault. His fault has been all the 300 hurricanes durin last 150 yrs. The globall warmup greenpee hoax is his fault (=below measuring error margin) http://www.junkscience.com/ ...20 yrs ago fathers moron was wasit? Reagan (eh, how come?). But because of Ronalds Pershings, my country is not occupied by commies! Here homegrown traitors to EU creates the same state totalitarialism... Do u want that? Antyhin else banned but green Fords allowed?? When no threat, its nice to sing in a spin zone chorus with no NO no! no thinking: b b b b b b ....

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Dead KS causes exactly what I said, AND that was included the original multi-fault pile. Multiple problems typically mean multiple causes. If the original text is correct, KS fault 90% certain, among others.

Exact quotation, again:
--->..."no more sudden deceleration, no more cutting off..." =dead KS

End of Spin.

 

lol somehow bush got in this thread, but not the kind I was hoping fore

I will try that nighttime thing, also try the carb cleaner thing; someone suggested Windex or something before for bubbles and I tried that and saw none.

Apparently no one thinks is the O2 so I'll throw that out. I figured between 12 coilpacks that I would have figured those to be the culprit, but maybe not - what are the odds two sets of six would produce the same results?

 

b& RR: mass media Spin Zone warping my words has to be cut off...

- One bad coilpack may produce misfire in one cyl.
- One bad injector may produce no fire in one cyl.
- Idle prob most probably IACV. ...or Bosch plugs.
- Missing power, one reason is bad KS.
- O2 & MAF are in the fuel/air ratio business also, dont count them out but VERIFY uself. We cannot repair it for u...

You can measure all those, if u care to study offered Links.

IF u define better your problems , get better answers. Now the fault his story is vague, answers none better... One fault at a time.

 

You've been reading some book written in Old English, haven't you....

 

Actually jess. My englitsch, the laughing stock(ing?) of this forum, 3rd language, started with the "Cruel Sea"... But now latter days, King James hath wrought that few fathoms.

 

I currently have a bad injector and this sounds simlar to the symptoms that I expeirience. I don't know if you tried using fuel injector cleaner yet. If you do and the symptoms go away, most likely the culprit.

 

Yeah, even though Nissan generally frowns upon additives, I did try it twice. Only "benefit" I saw was that my exhaust smelled.

I'm thinking about that IACV, since it really is when my foot is only lightly on the gas...or not.

I thought about that durn Knock sensor, but it's expensive to find out it ain't the problem.

 

The only thing fuel injector cleaners do is clean out your wallet.....Injectors tend to fail internally,not clog.....If the car has sat for a long time without being started, the fuel left in the injector may gel up and clog it....But that is after a long period of not being started.....

Don't waste your $$$ on cleaners...

 

[QUOTE=96ItaliaSE][QUOTE=thajones]It just seems like it's missing, with my Dynomax exhaust I can definitely hear it going put-put every few seconds or so; driveability is ok other than cruising in gear at 2000 rpms or less. I figure that's either timing or maybe the O2 sensor?



Here's something that'll make you giggle a bit if you dont already know this
Go to www.google.com and type FAILURE in and click on FEELING LUCKY then get back to the forum and let us know what happens.

sorry thajones for changing subject, just couldn't let this one pass by...I promise we'll talk about your car as soon as someone checks this out,

 

will it be work safe....i'm scurred...

 

Yea nothing offensive, although I found it funny cuz its true. Dont worry you wont get fired, I first checked it out at school last week so yea, check it

 

Google has become a greedy bs socialist sickle: it blocks sites annoying to gvmts, big money... After payment$. Maybe does not yet harm googling nissan parts? ...better search engines are available.