so i turned my max into a drift machine...
#1
so i turned my max into a drift machine...
sort of... i put some real crappy tires in back and some real sticky ones up front. its ridiculusly(sp?) easy to get it sideways.it defanately wont win any skidpad comps but its soo much fun to drive, considering e-brake doesnt even work
#6
Not an illegal post at all. How's the weather on OH right now? Like I said, nice knowing you:
http://search.weather.yahoo.com/forecast/USOH0510.html
http://search.weather.yahoo.com/forecast/USOH0510.html
Originally Posted by acidspit86
oooooo was that an illegal post? im sorry mods plz delete asap...
#7
Originally Posted by acidspit86
sort of... i put some real crappy tires in back and some real sticky ones up front. its ridiculusly(sp?) easy to get it sideways.it defanately wont win any skidpad comps but its soo much fun to drive, considering e-brake doesnt even work
You need to change your name to driftmaxx....
#8
its rainy as all hel* here. if this is not an illegal post why do you say nice knowing you? are you implying im going to crash and kill myself? and no, no hairdryer turbos. i was just experimenting and trying to make a front wheel drive car handle "more" like a RWD. i know its not really that possible, but i like oversteer more than understeer...
#12
Originally Posted by GREGB287
whats an illegal post? like if ur selling drugs or smthin?
#14
illegal post, something against the forum rules, like talking about street racing and the like...
#16
thanks for representin ohio
just kiddin check out this http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=260838
just kiddin check out this http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=260838
#21
he didnt say that he was doing it on the open road...
but seriously, i WAS going to do that, and then i realized that i can buy an old AE86 beater and stock- it would own my max at drifting. i know it can be fun, but if you can, please separate daily driver from dedicated drift car. YES it can be done, but there are more 'forgiving' choices out there, with a larger range of more affordable parts.
i hope you meant that you drive this at the track.
but seriously, i WAS going to do that, and then i realized that i can buy an old AE86 beater and stock- it would own my max at drifting. i know it can be fun, but if you can, please separate daily driver from dedicated drift car. YES it can be done, but there are more 'forgiving' choices out there, with a larger range of more affordable parts.
i hope you meant that you drive this at the track.
#22
Originally Posted by PunkFriday
he didnt say that he was doing it on the open road...
but seriously, i WAS going to do that, and then i realized that i can buy an old AE86 beater and stock- it would own my max at drifting. i know it can be fun, but if you can, please separate daily driver from dedicated drift car. YES it can be done, but there are more 'forgiving' choices out there, with a larger range of more affordable parts.
i hope you meant that you drive this at the track.
but seriously, i WAS going to do that, and then i realized that i can buy an old AE86 beater and stock- it would own my max at drifting. i know it can be fun, but if you can, please separate daily driver from dedicated drift car. YES it can be done, but there are more 'forgiving' choices out there, with a larger range of more affordable parts.
i hope you meant that you drive this at the track.
I prefer the 86 sr5.
#24
Originally Posted by Hectic
he's saying, "nice knowing you, it's raining, keep doing this and you're going to crash and die." i can't blame you though, sounds like fun.
i think its taught me to drive grandma slow in the rain... the tires in the rear are still considered safe i believe, they still have plenty of tread, they just grip equivelent to like a c rated tire whereas the front are a rated for traction
edit: on dry pavement i have to push it really hard to get it sideways, so its not like im riding on bare rims or anything
#25
Having the crappy tires in back = nice knowing you.
Originally Posted by acidspit86
i think its taught me to drive grandma slow in the rain... the tires in the rear are still considered safe i believe, they still have plenty of tread, they just grip equivelent to like a c rated tire whereas the front are a rated for traction
#26
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Having the crappy tires in back = nice knowing you.
#28
oh come on man, thats why your supposed to brake BEFORE you turn, i thought you were into autoX or something
edit: accelerating through corners, transfers weight to the back, therefore "holding" the tires down better, since there is more weight pushing them to the ground
edit: accelerating through corners, transfers weight to the back, therefore "holding" the tires down better, since there is more weight pushing them to the ground
#29
Read "worn tires" Why do you think your "drift machine thing worked". THINK people.
http://www.ogs.state.sc.us/webfiles/...fety_Mar03.pdf
http://www.ogs.state.sc.us/webfiles/...fety_Mar03.pdf
Originally Posted by acidspit86
oh come on man, thats why your supposed to brake BEFORE you turn, i thought you were into autoX or something
#30
ok jeff, i read the part on worn tires, but now tell me this, why am i racing around on public roads trying to get a fastest lap time?
#32
Most vehicles are equipped with the same size tire at every wheel position. Ideally all of these tires should also be of the same type and design, have the same tread depth and be inflated to the pressures specified by the vehicle placard or owner's manual. This combination best retains the handling balance engineered into the vehicle by its manufacturer.
However due to the front tires' responsibility for transmitting acceleration, steering and most of the braking forces on front-wheel-drive vehicles, it's normal for front tires to wear faster than rear tires. If the tires aren't rotated on a regular basis, it's also common for pairs of tires to wear out rather than sets. And if the tires aren't rotated at all, it's likely that the rear tires will still have about 1/2 of their original tread depth when the front tires are completely worn out.
Intuition suggests that since the front tires wore out first and because there is still about half-tread remaining on the rear tires, the new tires should be installed on the front axle. This will provide more traction, and by the time the front tires have worn out for the second time, the rear tires will be worn out too. However in this case, intuition isn't right...and following it can be downright dangerous.
When tires are replaced in pairs in situations like these, the new tires should always be installed on the rear axle and the worn tires moved to the front. The reason is because new tires on the rear axle help the driver more easily maintain control on wet roads because new, deeper treaded tires are more capable of resisting hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning occurs when the tire cannot process enough water through its tread design to maintain effective contact with the road. In moderate to heavy rain, water can pool up in road ruts, depressions and pockets adjacent to pavement expansion joints. At higher speeds, the standing water often found in these pools challenge a tire's ability to resist hydroplaning.
Exactly when hydroplaning occurs is the result of a combination of elements including water depth, vehicle weight and speed, as well as tire size, air pressure, tread design and tread depth. A lightweight vehicle with wide, worn, underinflated tires will hydroplane at lower speeds in a heavy downpour than a heavyweight vehicle equipped with new, narrow, properly inflated tires in drizzling rain.
If the rear tires have more tread depth than the front tires, the front tires will begin to hydroplane and lose traction on wet roads before the rears. This will cause the vehicle to begin to understeer (the vehicle wants to continue driving straight ahead). Understeer is relatively easy to control because releasing the gas pedal will slow the vehicle and help the driver maintain control.
However, if the front tires have more tread depth than the rear tires, the rear tires will begin to hydroplane and lose traction on wet roads before the fronts. This will cause the vehicle to begin to oversteer in which the vehicle wants to spin. Oversteer is far more difficult to control, and in addition to the initial distress felt when the rear of the car starts sliding, quickly releasing the gas pedal in an attempt to slow down may actually make it more difficult for the driver to regain control, possibly causing a complete spinout.
Members of The Tire Rack team had the chance to experience this phenomenon at Michelin's Laurens Proving Grounds. Participants were allowed to drive around a large radius, wet curve in vehicles fitted with tires of different tread depths — one vehicle with new tires on the rear and half-worn tires on the front, and the other with the new tires in the front and half-worn tires on the rear.
It didn't take long for this hands-on experience to confirm that the "proving grounds" name for the facility was correct. The ability to sense and control predictable understeer with the new tires on the rear, and the helplessness in trying to control the surprising oversteer with the new tires on the front was emphatically proven.
And even though our drivers had the advantage of knowing we were going to be challenged to maintain car control, spinouts became common during our laps in the car with the new tires on the front. Michelin advises us that almost everyone spins out at least once!
Experiencing this phenomenon in the safe, controlled conditions of Michelin's Laurens Proving Grounds rather than in traffic on an Interstate ramp in a rainstorm is definitely preferred!
In case there is any doubt, when tires are replaced in pairs, the new tires should always be installed on the rear axle and the worn tires moved to the front.
However due to the front tires' responsibility for transmitting acceleration, steering and most of the braking forces on front-wheel-drive vehicles, it's normal for front tires to wear faster than rear tires. If the tires aren't rotated on a regular basis, it's also common for pairs of tires to wear out rather than sets. And if the tires aren't rotated at all, it's likely that the rear tires will still have about 1/2 of their original tread depth when the front tires are completely worn out.
Intuition suggests that since the front tires wore out first and because there is still about half-tread remaining on the rear tires, the new tires should be installed on the front axle. This will provide more traction, and by the time the front tires have worn out for the second time, the rear tires will be worn out too. However in this case, intuition isn't right...and following it can be downright dangerous.
When tires are replaced in pairs in situations like these, the new tires should always be installed on the rear axle and the worn tires moved to the front. The reason is because new tires on the rear axle help the driver more easily maintain control on wet roads because new, deeper treaded tires are more capable of resisting hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning occurs when the tire cannot process enough water through its tread design to maintain effective contact with the road. In moderate to heavy rain, water can pool up in road ruts, depressions and pockets adjacent to pavement expansion joints. At higher speeds, the standing water often found in these pools challenge a tire's ability to resist hydroplaning.
Exactly when hydroplaning occurs is the result of a combination of elements including water depth, vehicle weight and speed, as well as tire size, air pressure, tread design and tread depth. A lightweight vehicle with wide, worn, underinflated tires will hydroplane at lower speeds in a heavy downpour than a heavyweight vehicle equipped with new, narrow, properly inflated tires in drizzling rain.
If the rear tires have more tread depth than the front tires, the front tires will begin to hydroplane and lose traction on wet roads before the rears. This will cause the vehicle to begin to understeer (the vehicle wants to continue driving straight ahead). Understeer is relatively easy to control because releasing the gas pedal will slow the vehicle and help the driver maintain control.
However, if the front tires have more tread depth than the rear tires, the rear tires will begin to hydroplane and lose traction on wet roads before the fronts. This will cause the vehicle to begin to oversteer in which the vehicle wants to spin. Oversteer is far more difficult to control, and in addition to the initial distress felt when the rear of the car starts sliding, quickly releasing the gas pedal in an attempt to slow down may actually make it more difficult for the driver to regain control, possibly causing a complete spinout.
Members of The Tire Rack team had the chance to experience this phenomenon at Michelin's Laurens Proving Grounds. Participants were allowed to drive around a large radius, wet curve in vehicles fitted with tires of different tread depths — one vehicle with new tires on the rear and half-worn tires on the front, and the other with the new tires in the front and half-worn tires on the rear.
It didn't take long for this hands-on experience to confirm that the "proving grounds" name for the facility was correct. The ability to sense and control predictable understeer with the new tires on the rear, and the helplessness in trying to control the surprising oversteer with the new tires on the front was emphatically proven.
And even though our drivers had the advantage of knowing we were going to be challenged to maintain car control, spinouts became common during our laps in the car with the new tires on the front. Michelin advises us that almost everyone spins out at least once!
Experiencing this phenomenon in the safe, controlled conditions of Michelin's Laurens Proving Grounds rather than in traffic on an Interstate ramp in a rainstorm is definitely preferred!
In case there is any doubt, when tires are replaced in pairs, the new tires should always be installed on the rear axle and the worn tires moved to the front.
#33
yeah but i thought i already said the rears still have plenty of tread, they just arent very sticky
#36
Yeah but I thought the articles said put the better tires in the rear?
Okay so the tires have tread but don't stick worth a damn. Now there's logic for ya.
Originally Posted by acidspit86
yeah but i thought i already said the rears still have plenty of tread, they just arent very sticky
#37
oh come on man give me a break, i can tell you automatically think im one of the stupid ricers who dont know what they are doing... i understand the risks involved, i already know i can fish tail; and you dont need sticky tires to prevent hydroplaning you need tread depth, and tread thats properly cut to dissapate water...
im glad we can argue about this like adults (no sarcasm meant)
im glad we can argue about this like adults (no sarcasm meant)
#38
Reading is fundamental
Worn TiresPreventing loss of control was also the purpose of mysecond test track demonstration. Have you everreplaced only two worn tires (the other two looked likethey could handle a few more thousand miles) andput them on the front? In this test I drove twoMaximas. The first car had two new tires in the backand two worn tires in the front. Again the instructortook me onto a wet track, this time an oval, and all ofus were being timed to see who was the fastest! I didreally well on this test clocking in with the fastest timeof the day.However, I could feel the front end start to lose its gripwhich meant I was starting to go straight instead ofaround the curve (understeer), but it was easy tocorrect by holding my steering steady and easing offthe gas to allow the tires to regain traction. Then I gotinto the second Maxima with two new tires on thefront and worn tires on the back. I headed for thetrack again knowing to expect the back end to losetraction this time. I was prepared. I even went a bitslower. It didn’t matter because when the rear tireslost it (oversteer) I was going backwards faster than Icould say, “Hey!” I tried it again and again with thesame results. I got the Johnny Rutherford Award thistime for spinning out after the checkered flag! Thelesson here (whether you have a two- or four- or front-or rear-wheel drive vehicle - they’re all the same) wasto put new tires on the back.
Worn TiresPreventing loss of control was also the purpose of mysecond test track demonstration. Have you everreplaced only two worn tires (the other two looked likethey could handle a few more thousand miles) andput them on the front? In this test I drove twoMaximas. The first car had two new tires in the backand two worn tires in the front. Again the instructortook me onto a wet track, this time an oval, and all ofus were being timed to see who was the fastest! I didreally well on this test clocking in with the fastest timeof the day.However, I could feel the front end start to lose its gripwhich meant I was starting to go straight instead ofaround the curve (understeer), but it was easy tocorrect by holding my steering steady and easing offthe gas to allow the tires to regain traction. Then I gotinto the second Maxima with two new tires on thefront and worn tires on the back. I headed for thetrack again knowing to expect the back end to losetraction this time. I was prepared. I even went a bitslower. It didn’t matter because when the rear tireslost it (oversteer) I was going backwards faster than Icould say, “Hey!” I tried it again and again with thesame results. I got the Johnny Rutherford Award thistime for spinning out after the checkered flag! Thelesson here (whether you have a two- or four- or front-or rear-wheel drive vehicle - they’re all the same) wasto put new tires on the back.
Originally Posted by acidspit86
oh come on man, thats why your supposed to brake BEFORE you turn, i thought you were into autoX or something
edit: accelerating through corners, transfers weight to the back, therefore "holding" the tires down better, since there is more weight pushing them to the ground
edit: accelerating through corners, transfers weight to the back, therefore "holding" the tires down better, since there is more weight pushing them to the ground