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replacing manifold studs today

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Old Sep 3, 2005 | 09:54 AM
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replacing manifold studs today

well, since i have a 3 day weekend now, i think today is prime to replace the exhaust maniflod studs. at least one is busted inside the head, so i'm not expecting this to go quickly. i'm having both manifolds shaved flat and i might try to work the exhaust ports a tad with the dremel. are there any time any time saving tips or tricks i can use? i've read all the write ups and such, perhaps experience is the best tool. thanks for the help -- matt
Old Sep 3, 2005 | 10:09 AM
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¯\(°_o)/¯
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Good luck....I dread this job if i ever have to do it ....All mine are still intact so far....I guess the only tip i can give is...patience...
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 11:25 AM
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wow. i pulled most of the exhaust yesterday, and got the front maniflod off. so far i have 4 busted studs out of 12. i have yet to pull the rear manifold because the power steering pump is right in the way. can anyone tell me how to get that ps pump outta there? for some reason i can't find a way to move it.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 04:25 PM
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To get to the power steeiring pump bolts, use a ratchet and a deep socket. Put the socket THROUGH the holes in the pulley. I think the bolts are 12mm or 14mm.
Good luck with the rest of the job, and make sure you use Turbo studs.
Old Sep 4, 2005 | 06:59 PM
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Its really not that tough, except on the rear bank (since you have the engine in the car) Just start with the smallest drill bit you can find, which will make your initial hole easy. Then jumping up sizes only take 15-20 seconds. Use the largest easy out you can, and dont use the same one too many times (my ez-out broke off in the bolt on my 6th and last broken bolt )

A tip I found (sugested by Matt93se iirc) that made starting the holes quick and easy is to take one of the bolts that you were able to back out without breaking and use a drill press to drill a hole right in the center. Then cut the bolt short, and screw it into the threads of the broken studs holes to make sure your starting hole is centered. I pulled 3 studs in less than an hour using this method.
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 07:39 AM
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finally got all my studs drilled out last night. a total of 6/12 were busted in the heads. thankfully the threads inside the head came out alright, even with my shaky a$$ hands.
i actually found a way to get around the ps pump as well: take out the motor mount. the mount made it more accessible than the pump would have as well, since one of the busted ones was one the far right of the rear bank. my mount is ripped as well, so now is a good time to replace that as well. god i wish i could find some poly mounts.... anyone?
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 08:28 AM
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so as i stare at my warped manifolds, i begin to ponder. excessive heat causes metal to disfigure. quicker dissipation would allow metal to keep it's form. these heat shields on the manifolds are causing extra heat to stick around and bend my mfolds and bust my studs. the more i question it, the more i want to remove the heat shield. i don't see any fragile or meltable parts that would be near the open maifolds, so what do you think? i know these engine compartments are small, so heat will disperse throughout quickly. i'm just looking for pros and cons of removing the shield.
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 09:50 AM
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there is a whole thread on this topic. more than less agree the warped manifolds are a result of driving around with broken exhaust studs more than they are the cause of the breakage. also i think the turbo studs are 10mm, doesnt the vg have 8mm studs? also the shields are pretty tough and good quality- not like my friends ford escort manifold shields, which have 4 cheap spot welds... i knocked one off with a screwdriver

edit: you can buy the polyurethane, the lower shore rating, online for about 15$, tape up your mounts, refill and bam, youre good
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Minty91GXE
more than less agree the warped manifolds are a result of driving around with broken exhaust studs more than they are the cause of the breakage.

so you're suggesting the inferior part is the studs then? i went ahead and bought generic heat treated studs from my local parts store, hopefully these will stand up over time. thanks for the info.

will post a new thread with pics later
Old Sep 5, 2005 | 02:47 PM
  #10  
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the studs have long been known to be the weak part. VG and VE alike. they break on the minivans, Pathfinders, trucks, and XTerras too.. so we're not alone.

going with the turbo studs usually solves the problem. I have no experience with the parts store studs, so I can't say on that.
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