Hey guys,

My wife has been driving our '92 GXE to work (Highschool in Bronx, NY) and it seems that large people have been sitting on the trunk of our Maxima. They put spiral notebooks on top of the trunk and then sat on top of the notebooks. This I know, because the paint (which was nearly flawless) has scrapes that are evenly spaced like spiral notebooks.

Anyway, one problem. I think the trunk sensor is broken or something. The "security" light always flashes even if the car is "UNLOCKED" and only goes away after I open the trunk and then shut it again.

Biggest problem is, if we lock the car and have the factory alarm gets enabled, a few hours later, the horn starts to go off because I guess the trunk sensor is flaky and the car thinks someone popped the trunk.

I peeked in the trunk and really couldn't figure out where the sensor was located. We just bought a '94 GXE for my mother in law, but it will sit in the driveway for a week or two. I would like to know what the offending parts might be, because I have an opportunity to swap parts to try to figure out what the problem is.

Or if someone can tell me if I can cut a wire or two (or cut and short them) to disable the trunk sensor, that would be fine too.

Thank you for any helps,

-Sage

 

i can open my trunk and the alarm does not go off......the hood and doors are different, but the trunk doesnt have a sensor i think

 

When I open the trunk with the key while factory alarm is on, it does NOT set off the alarm.

All, I am saying is that few hours after car is locked, the alarm engages and the horn blows. After punching in door lock code to disarm, I notice that the "security" light is blinking (with doors unlocked). If I open the trunk and then shut it again, the blinking light is gone, and it's all fine.

I am going crazy over this, because my wife needs to park this car in the Bronx, NY, and at least for the summer at our home in NJ, we used to keep the car unlocked to prevent it from blaring the alarm (but can't do that in Bronx, the leaving unlocked part I mean, not the blaring horns)...

 

There is an antitheft switch off the keylock in the trunk, it temporally disarms the alarm when a key is used to open. I'm combing wiring diagrams to finsd the dang thing..... brb

 

I do not think any of the wiring diagrams available have the wiring diagrams for the security system....For obvious reasons.....Think about it....

This one is going to be a hard one to diagnoes......Because of lack of wiring diagrams for the security systems...

 

Ok the wires you are looking for are (from off the Theft warning control) Light Green and the other is Blue. The Light green comes straight off the TWCD to the trunk lid unlock switch, the Blue wire comes from the TWCD to the trunk lamp switch and is branched off (also Blue) to the TLUS. I'll try to email you the wiring diagrams.

 

Alldatadiy has the entire wiring diagram, Antitheft warning system included.

 

That is scary.....

 

but true..... for only 25$ you too can learn how to disable yadda yadda blah blah... you get the idea.

 

The good point is, that those wanting to learn HowTo, are not the same guys stealing cars. At least 10 yr olds...

My alarm goes on immediately smtg is in the trunk lock. And also on rainy days, as fellas activate their radio alarms beside mine... Thats why I have separate bypasses for horn & haz lights, for those days. Still the engine dead switch stays activated.

 

Wiking, I take it that you have an aftermarket alarm with motion sensor (if someone bumps the car, it sets it off)? I am pretty sure that most aftermarket motion sensors are (or at least used to be) mercury switches (like analog thermostats for houses). Considering mercury switches are bulb of mercury attached to a bi-metallic strip, I am pretty sure that they have adjustment screws to make it less (or more) sensitive.

CyMax, thank you so much for looking up the wiring diagrams. I will look for the wires today when my wife comes home from work. I wanted to take care of this ASAP because I am not too happy with the idea of a petite woman parking a car with an UNLOCKED trunk (if you pop the trunk but do not open it, the alarm doesn't go off even if it is activated) in the bad parts of the Bronx...

 

At least it's better than 02-03 maximas. My brother-in-law has an '02 SE with the xenons and less than a month after he got the car, the lights were taken. They used something to pull off the wires to the horn. The wires are VISIBLE through the front grill opening. They used prybars to pry off the headlamps from the car (mangling the fenders).

I spoke to the dealer service manager, and he said that if one wanted to do a clean job (tabs intact and no damage to fenders), one can use a "J" shaped hook to hook the two horn wires and then pull them off. Then use the J shaped hook to hook the hood release cable (also very visible through WIDE grill opening) and then just yank it really really hard. As the cable bends, the tension will cause the hood to release, setting off the alarm, but only headlamps and taillamps will blink. Amazingly, as soon as hood is open, as one cuts the headlamp harness, the foglights will also get disabled because it is connected in series to the headlamps. And everyone knows that to take the headlamps, one only needs to remove two screws per headlamp, and they are nicely placed on top of the housing for easy removal...

 

Yes, its not original, but installed when bought. Has no motion sensor. I've repaired its stuck horn relay (the system was !? dead as new, until year 11 as I got this...been always fused off). It seems to got a mic picking for glass breaking sound. The culprit seems to be the extended antenna/satellite box/led wiring: small non finished -pcb prics into incomin flat cable. Dirty work. We'll see or rather hear later how it goes.

Move horn, and shield/hide it from access, extra ? behind rear bumper. Reinforce hood with pair of solenoid latches and/or extra locking. Deliver ign high voltage on the cable when touched... ppl tend to freeze with a smile on. He'll have had enough in the evening as wifey arrives

Btw the 5gen max is on top of steal -list b/c of the pricey lamps.

 

Since CyMax's post, the only time I had some free time was at night. Because of lack of light, no time/light to hunt for wire colors so I decided to do the following.

I removed the inside liner of the trunk lid. Behind the trunk lid "latch", there were TWO SETS of wires. One set going to the latch, and other going to the keylock cylinder.

I first thought one set might be "trunk release" and other "security", but then I realized that the trunk release is located in the body of the car, NOT IN THE trunklid. There is a solenoid in the body that "pulls" on a wire that pushes the black plastic tab found in the latch of the lid...

Anyway, so the two pairs of wires cannot be for the trunk release... I realized that one must be to turn on the trunk lamp. I am guessing that this is the set of wires running to the latch. Still haven't figured out what the other set is that runs to the keylock cylinder.

Anyway, the security does this:
1. If the doors are locked while trunk is closed, alarm activates and when the trunk is popped open (lamp goes on), alarm triggers, like CyMax said.
2. If the doors are locked while trunk is open, alarm ignores the trunk sensor. It still triggers if you pull up on the inside door lock, but trunk is ignored.

Because I couldn't tell if the wires are shorted in trunk close or open, I just un-plugged the harness for both wires. The trunk release still works, but either way, now the car thinks the trunk is either always open or always closed, which temporarily fixes my problem.

CyMax, if you can e-mail me the wiring that would be super. If anyone shed light on what the second pair of wires to the lock cylinder might be, I'm all ears...

 

I have re-located the horn of my 2001 pathfinder to behind the front bumper (hidden from outside access). I figure crooks are mostly going to do this at night, so if you re-locate your horn to a non-factory location, they will probably not bother with wasting time looking for the horn.

Perhaps armor-plated hood cable? Or easier/cheaper would be to use heavy-duty nylon zipties to tie cable to the frame at more places than factory method. At least this won't give "slack" the crooks can use to grab it and yank it by(if anyone doesn't know how this works, get a bicycle, and while brake lever is NOT engaged, grab the brake line and twist it. You'll notice that the bicycle's brake is not engaged).

How about a flame thrower shooting out the front if anyone touches the hood release cable??? One report of a headlamp thief roasted in fire in the evening news will probably put an end to the 5th gen headlamp theft "ring" (so says NYPD) in the area.

One NYPD officer interviewed in the local paper is quoted, "what kind of an idiot (at Nissan) decides to attach $2000 headlamps with two sheet metal screws!?!?!" Couldn't have said it better myself...

 

OMG. I just figured out what the second pair of wires on the lock cylinder are! It's to disable the alarm (or at least the latch sensor), so that if you use the key to open the trunk, it will keep the alarm from blaring...

Even the doors have the same feature. If you have the factory alarm activated, and you use a key to unlock the doors, the alarm doesn't go off, but if you "pull" up on the door lock from the inside, the alarm goes off.

 

The problem is, your freedom has ended b/c criminals are on the endangered species pampering list. The key issue is, that the criminal has to walk 20feet and die with a maximum smile on his face, 'unknown' sickness attack, like yasser arafat.

Ppl here get jailtime for installing bear iron snare in own car.

 

ok guys, there actually is a sensor on the trunk......lock the doors and go open the trunk with the key (when alarm is set, light stays on for a minute or two) when you turn the key, when the key is turned, the alarm goes off, when trunk is open, light flashes....so there must be some kind of sensor that tells the alarm that the trunk is open or not

 

Go up few posts. CyMax has already found the sensor wires, and I have already disconnected them.

 

o sorry, i was in a rush..glad you fixed it.

 

Hey, no need to be sorry for trying to help out. Thanks for your assistance in any case.

 

no problem fellow new jersey dude