My question is that the RPM drops down to 200~400 when i brake to stop at the light. It goes back to 600 RPM after hesitating. This only happens when i brake. Is it a IACV or MAF? Also, there were times when my car shut off idling on Park. The last problem is that the car feels like it has no gas when i'm accelerating. It stutters at whatever speed i'im going at until i let go of the gas, but then if i gas it again, it'll be fine. Any problems here? Thanks guys

 

My question is that the RPM drops down to 200~400 when i brake to stop at the light. It goes back to 600 RPM after hesitating. This only happens when i brake. Is it a IACV or MAF? Also, there were times when my car shut off idling on Park.
- my guess: IACV 90% / MAF 10%

The last problem is that the car feels like it has no gas when i'm accelerating. It stutters at whatever speed i'im going at until i let go of the gas, but then if i gas it again, it'll be fine. Any problems here? Thanks guys
- my guess: IACV 0% / MAF 40% / Other 60%

Other: --->http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1

 

My ve does the same thing at idle sometimes, check engine light is on. Codes are 32 and 34. EGR function (obstructed valve or solenoid) and knock sensor. if your check engine light is on then this might help. If not, then tell us what it ends up being.

 

I'm gonna say injectors, due to the lack of idle and power.

BTW Sector7 I have a brand new EGR valve sitting around if you're interested. Like $40

 

Is it for an automatic or manual se?

 

automatic SE

 

my car also has ben doing this when the tranny/engine is cold.....when it is operating at normal temp.....it is fine....sometimes it stalls also......i put 1/2 can of air intake and throttle body cleaner in.....it is a little better, but not much....the car bucks back and forth then stalls.....why?

 

Something you can do that will little $$ is to check ALL the sensor,injector connections for corrosion {green crap}. If you find some then get some dielectric grease and clean them put some on the connections..

This will prevent you from replacing parts that are not bad....

 

I have a simular problem with my 89 max. The car wil start up and run just fine I can take it down the road doing 90 and it will run great... After the car has been running for about 10-15 minutes it will start ruff idling and drop to about 400-500 rpms and I will get no pedal response. Only other thing is I have no check engine light that comes on just seems like there is no gas but the fuel pump seems to be running fine and have replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

 

I have the same problem as JstAntrRoky .....any ideas?

 

Have you tried post #8 yet??? or do want to spend $$$ and replace something...

 

I can try that I have done all wires, plugs, cap and rotor......I just ordered a MAF so we can see what happens.