how to lighten the max
It all depends on how hardcore you want to go wiht it and what the car will be used for. for instance drag race only get rid of EVERYHTINg in the interior, dash,seats,carpet,headliner replace all the windows with lexan units,cut the insides of the doors out.
depends on what you want to do
depends on what you want to do
Originally Posted by 93turbo gxe
I would like to keep it street able. But I was just wondering of some of the hidden stuff that I may be able to remove
- next da goldbar under the seat
What I am saying, if u want better accel (?), best way is to pump the engine. Few ounces doesnt make any diff.
Originally Posted by Wiking
- start from heaviest, drop engine.
- next da goldbar under the seat
What I am saying, if u want better accel (?), best way is to pump the engine. Few ounces doesnt make any diff.
- next da goldbar under the seat
What I am saying, if u want better accel (?), best way is to pump the engine. Few ounces doesnt make any diff.
I would guess that Aaron92SE has the lightest 3rd gen. I think Aaron took out a bunch of metal that he deemed unnecessary and took out all of the sound deadening. That hard stuff under the carpet that you need to chisel out.
Mine weighs just at 3000 lbs without me in it and about 1/3 tank of gas. I weighed it today at the truck scale and it bumped betweeen 2950 and 3000, then settled on 3000. It is probably about 2990, but I know those truck scales round to the nearest 50 lbs. With me in it, the scale said 3200 and I weigh about 190.
If you race it, gas is heavy. Try to keep as little gas as you feel safe with. I took out the front seat, rear seat, floormats, everything in the trunk (including most of the plastic and carpet) and I took off the fog lights. I also removed the seat belts in the rear. Last time out I left behind the front and rear strut tower braces, too.
After racing today with my stock 15s, I am convinced that lighter wheels do help in drag racing, even if they are 17s. That's a way to reduce unsprung weight. I think I read somewhere that every lb of unsprung weight is like 7 lbs of regular weight reduction.
Mine weighs just at 3000 lbs without me in it and about 1/3 tank of gas. I weighed it today at the truck scale and it bumped betweeen 2950 and 3000, then settled on 3000. It is probably about 2990, but I know those truck scales round to the nearest 50 lbs. With me in it, the scale said 3200 and I weigh about 190.
If you race it, gas is heavy. Try to keep as little gas as you feel safe with. I took out the front seat, rear seat, floormats, everything in the trunk (including most of the plastic and carpet) and I took off the fog lights. I also removed the seat belts in the rear. Last time out I left behind the front and rear strut tower braces, too.
After racing today with my stock 15s, I am convinced that lighter wheels do help in drag racing, even if they are 17s. That's a way to reduce unsprung weight. I think I read somewhere that every lb of unsprung weight is like 7 lbs of regular weight reduction.
Originally Posted by internetautomar
I just found the lightest driver ME!
Originally Posted by puna2k
Get a carbon fiber hood, make a custom carbon fiber sunroof.
for starters buy a fidanza
edit: seriously if you guys are going to do half of the idea's posted in this thread you need to sell your maxima and buy a different car. Also James92se weighed in pretty light
edit: seriously if you guys are going to do half of the idea's posted in this thread you need to sell your maxima and buy a different car. Also James92se weighed in pretty light
Originally Posted by puna2k
Get a carbon fiber hood, make a custom carbon fiber sunroof.
as you should realy remove the WHOLE assembly.
that is a significant help in auto-X.
Originally Posted by MrGone
for starters buy a fidanza
edit: seriously if you guys are going to do half of the idea's posted in this thread you need to sell your maxima and buy a different car. Also James92se weighed in pretty light
edit: seriously if you guys are going to do half of the idea's posted in this thread you need to sell your maxima and buy a different car. Also James92se weighed in pretty light
I have to agree. The stuff I do takes under an hour to remove and maybe shaves off one tenth in the 1/4 mile. It's not really worth it, IMO to spend hours and hours tearing your car apart unless you are totally dedicated to racing, like Aaron.
Our cars are four door, fairly heavy and have an iron block 6 cylinder.
If you want a lightweight car to throw around, buy yourself an MR2, CRX,Miata or 240sx.
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
....
If you want a lightweight car to throw around, buy yourself an MR2, CRX,Miata or 240sx.
If you want a lightweight car to throw around, buy yourself an MR2, CRX,Miata or 240sx.
Originally Posted by nismosleeper
IMO MR2s are expensive, miatas are trash, CRX is a honda (i.e. not original), and 240sx is too popular and expected to be fast (wouldn't mind having one). Four door sleeper status is great; the reactions and props....."wow! wtf was that?" "....ummmm...I think it was a maxima." "Doesn't your mom have one of those?"
240's may be popular, but that makes parts for them cheap, and they are a great platform.
seriously you have a high 16 second car at best, your car is not fast. By todays standards 14 second cars are barely quick. Because of Nissan's marketing, and past engine performance based on the competitions engine performance, most people know maxima's are quick, they are not the best sleepers.
Now don't get me wrong, for the money they provide great bang for the buck, but if you have anything other than a VE 5spd I wouldn't drop a bunch of money modding it for performance because it will never be at that level (although there are a few people, who will go unnamed, that have done a great job building their VG's and the quality put in those cars is amazing). Highly modified VE 5spds are a blast to drive, the only thing that bothered me about mine was how fast it chewed up tires and it took some work to get the headlights to spit out useable light. I dumped over $8000 into the car, and while it was fun and a blast to drive, if I would have put that $8000 into my Mustang I'd have a with 2-3 times more power (3-4 seconds faster quarter mile), much more balanced, way better handling, etc. Same thing with a 240sx/Miata (minus the power/quarter part
).The point is it takes a lot, and I mean a LOT of dedication and money to build a performance oriented Maxima, and there are only a few in this forum that have, and almost all of the guy's I've talked to said while they enjoy the car they wish they had a different platform (M3's/a few 240's/WRX or two/a TJ lol/etc).
Maxima's are definately sleepers but the trick is to keep the stock appearance. I kept the stock 15" sawblades and don't have anything done for looks so when you run 13s people are like WTF?
Aaron's car is super light (350 lbs lighter than stock) so ask him.
Aaron's car is super light (350 lbs lighter than stock) so ask him.
Originally Posted by JClaw
Maxima's are definately sleepers but the trick is to keep the stock appearance. I kept the stock 15" sawblades and don't have anything done for looks so when you run 13s people are like WTF?
Aaron's car is super light (350 lbs lighter than stock) so ask him.
Aaron's car is super light (350 lbs lighter than stock) so ask him.
Only a handful of guys in the entire country have 13 second Maximas. Only two guys I can recall with 3rd gens have run under 14 and both were turbo (all customized). I know the guy starting this thread has done a crap load of work (turbo, 5-speed swap) and there is a guy I know with a Talon TSi that only has about $2k in easy mods (all stuff you can buy in a catalog) and runs 13.1.
I went to the track yesterday and there were a six or seven 13 second WRXs and SRT-4s, 4-5 DSMs and about 10 Hondas (most turbo'd) all under 14 seconds. Not a single Nissan product under 14 there. There were also a couple of EVOs and STis running in the 12s. I think on 2/3 of my runs, I got handed my azz in the 1/4 mile time. I did take second (out of about 40 cars in my class), because it was bracket racing, not head-to-head.
Maximas are great cruising cars. They are pretty fast, faster than most riced out Hondas with a fart can and an intake. However, they are no match for a real sports car or even something like a Talon TSi, unless you drop some serious coin or have mad fabrication skills.
Originally Posted by JClaw
Maxima's are definately sleepers but the trick is to keep the stock appearance. I kept the stock 15" sawblades and don't have anything done for looks so when you run 13s people are like WTF?
Aaron's car is super light (350 lbs lighter than stock) so ask him.
Aaron's car is super light (350 lbs lighter than stock) so ask him.
, but alot of people expected my car to be fast. Maybe because I said it's slow, or maybe because word of mouth spreads like wild fire but I'm pretty sure the only people who were surprised by my car were a few porsches and a CLK320.
I have shaved 410lbs. I weighed my car stock at 3300lbs. When in track mode, I weighed in at 2890lbs. I might shave a little more weight before this winter. I am in a MUCH colder environment this year, so expect to see me to whoop my 14.3 record. I still don't have my ECU upgraded. Hopefully, one of these days I will get this Zemulator full ECU management system working.
Some of the major things I've removed are, all seats except for the 12lb Summit Racing bucket seat I have, both bumper supports, all sound deadening (40lbs or so), carpet (approx. 30 lbs), spare tire, jack, and muffler 20lbs. I also installed rear skinny tires just for the track. They weigh in at 20lbs a piece. My stock 17" Subzero and Falkens are 38lbs. Keep in mind that most of the stuff that I removed is strictly for the track. I only remove my bumper supports and muffler at the track.
I still haven't messed with the sunroof, Lexan windows, headliner and other panels that are above chest high of the driver. I haven't remove heat shields or tow straps. I am about to rip my dash completely apart to do a heater core replacement job. I will find a lot of crap I can remove.
On my website, I have photos of my sound deadening removal in the Pictures section.
Some of the major things I've removed are, all seats except for the 12lb Summit Racing bucket seat I have, both bumper supports, all sound deadening (40lbs or so), carpet (approx. 30 lbs), spare tire, jack, and muffler 20lbs. I also installed rear skinny tires just for the track. They weigh in at 20lbs a piece. My stock 17" Subzero and Falkens are 38lbs. Keep in mind that most of the stuff that I removed is strictly for the track. I only remove my bumper supports and muffler at the track.
I still haven't messed with the sunroof, Lexan windows, headliner and other panels that are above chest high of the driver. I haven't remove heat shields or tow straps. I am about to rip my dash completely apart to do a heater core replacement job. I will find a lot of crap I can remove.
On my website, I have photos of my sound deadening removal in the Pictures section.
Originally Posted by MrGone
seriously you have a high 16 second car at best, your car is not fast.
Originally Posted by nismosleeper
hmmm....so you are telling me how fast my car is? You don't know jack about my setup. My car is not fast, however it is faster than most unmodded cars, while looking like crap. What is fast? I'm fast for being NA and having four doors, or fast for having a car that was made in 1989. I would be willing to bet that my car is lighter than yours Gone; what do you run, and how much do you weigh?
Originally Posted by nismosleeper
hmmm....so you are telling me how fast my car is? You don't know jack about my setup. My car is not fast, however it is faster than most unmodded cars, while looking like crap. What is fast? I'm fast for being NA and having four doors, or fast for having a car that was made in 1989. I would be willing to bet that my car is lighter than yours Gone; what do you run, and how much do you weigh?
if it's faster than most unmodded cars I highly suggest you go get us a time slip before running your mouth further.
For me: 14's are quick enough not to be boring
11's to low-mid 12's is "fast" for a street car
For being NA and having 4 doors you are slow, decent at best. Hell my Dad's 4300lb 740i is faster than a VG 5spd or VE Auto
I never cared for weight, Instead I just added power. Honestly I think it is pointless and boardline stupid to remove weight from these cars. It isn't even worth the time IMHO to remove seats or do any of the other crap and I've had my car completely stripped down mind you. I did however have trouble getting traction in first gear when it was completely dry out with good tires just rolling on the gas. Second gear would spin doing the same thing when it was wet out. It's laughable that you would even consider comparing your car to mine
and it is almost completely stock right now (minus a few things I choose not to remove (welded and other reinforced parts, intake manifolds, headers, etc) it just isn't worth my time to do so.not to mention I didn't even bother drag racing. It's boring and causes too much drivetrain wear. I dont know about you but I get a much bigger rush throwing cars around turns.
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
MrGone is busy typing up your resignation 

Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,385
From: oburg S.C.
ok yes Im one of those 13's maxima's. My car weights like 3200 now but im trying to get it down about 2900 or 3000lb. I ran 13.5 on street tire on 11psi from a stock ct26 with a 2.3 60 ft!. Since then I have added ported intake manifold,throttle body,lower intake, heads and exhaust mainfolds. Better tunning, fixed the knock sensor and raised the red line to 7000rpms. Also I added a cams with a 4.60 lift and 258/270 duration. I hope to get it back running on tuesday and have it broke in a week. Im also going to be running about 16 psi. So Im tring to get in the mid 12's
Originally Posted by MrGone
too busy watching The Flight That Fought Back than deal with some 18 year old wanna be. He's already been owned talking about turbo BS.
Yea.
...I was shaking my head at that morons posts in that thread...
Originally Posted by 93turbo gxe
ok yes Im one of those 13's maxima's. My car weights like 3200 now but im trying to get it down about 2900 or 3000lb. I ran 13.5 on street tire on 11psi from a stock ct26 with a 2.3 60 ft!. Since then I have added ported intake manifold,throttle body,lower intake, heads and exhaust mainfolds. Better tunning, fixed the knock sensor and raised the red line to 7000rpms. Also I added a cams with a 4.60 lift and 258/270 duration. I hope to get it back running on tuesday and have it broke in a week. Im also going to be running about 16 psi. So Im tring to get in the mid 12's
If you take out the seats, everything in the trunk (carpet, spare, jack), floor mats, simplify your stereo stuff so that at least the box is easy to take out and run with about 1/4 tank, you will be at 3000 lbs. I did that and it took me probably 40 minutes to take it out with everything being easy to put back in.
Practice launches, too. I went to the track Saturday and got my 60-foot down to 2.2 on H rated tires because I had about 10 practice runs. Previously, I just spun out a lot, even with better tires.
Like MrGone said, buy slicks or drag radials. If you get some light wheels, it will shave a couple of tenths off, too. If you are interested in some light wheels, I have some 17s for sale -- track use only because they are damaged. They weigh 14 lbs each (much lighter than even 15 inch sawblades) and I will dismount tires for shipping. Probably the best thing is to get some 15s, like Millenia wheels, though.
http://www.northwestnissans.com/boar...ad.php?t=36313
Dang Aaron, u r one hardcore dude w/ that max. props for the effort. 14.3 ain't nothin to sneeze at! I think you're faster than a stock WRX now right?
Also guys, once weight reduction #'s get high enough, the power to weight ratio numbers get really favorable; versus adding HP. Do some math, you'll see. Cuz it's easier to accelerate a lighter car with a less HP, than to accelerate a heavy pig with more HP.
Also guys, once weight reduction #'s get high enough, the power to weight ratio numbers get really favorable; versus adding HP. Do some math, you'll see. Cuz it's easier to accelerate a lighter car with a less HP, than to accelerate a heavy pig with more HP.
Originally Posted by Dillbag
Dang Aaron, u r one hardcore dude w/ that max. props for the effort. 14.3 ain't nothin to sneeze at! I think you're faster than a stock WRX now right?
Also guys, once weight reduction #'s get high enough, the power to weight ratio numbers get really favorable; versus adding HP. Do some math, you'll see. Cuz it's easier to accelerate a lighter car with a less HP, than to accelerate a heavy pig with more HP.
Also guys, once weight reduction #'s get high enough, the power to weight ratio numbers get really favorable; versus adding HP. Do some math, you'll see. Cuz it's easier to accelerate a lighter car with a less HP, than to accelerate a heavy pig with more HP.
This winter, I should see high 13s just b/c the weather will be a lot better than it was in FL when I ran 14.3. I am located in a much colder area now. Plus, I have some more all motor things to do before I start piecing together my turbo setup.
About the power to weight, it can go both ways. But with a heavy car, it does take more HP to make is as fast as a light car. It's really a personal decision whether you want to add more HP or lighten your car. For me, I don't mind shaving weight, so I can put forth the effort to do so. Also, the lighter you get, the easier it gets to shave a tenth in the 1/4 mile. It's all relative. But also, the faster you get, the harder it seems to shave a tenth. So it's a constant battle. It's not going to be easy for me to get 13s all motor without an ECU upgrade, but I will try this winter since the Zemulator tuning system isn't quite working the way I want it to.



