A/C bleed?
09-12-2005, 08:00 AM
#1
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A/C bleed?
Just wanted to check if anyone knows if there are any bleeding valves / vents for the A/C? In sorta the same manner as for heat. My heating didn't work very good but after a bleed it worked just fine. Just a thought it's maybe the same with the A/C...
09-12-2005, 08:05 AM
#2
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
...Just a thought it's maybe the same with the A/C...
Take an eduCational tRip, I found this info useful:
http://www.id-usa.com/how_to_ac.asp
http://www.id-usa.com/how_to_videos.asp
details at: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/7
09-12-2005, 10:25 AM
#3
I think that freon or R 134 refrigerant is in a gas state while in the ac system...So if it is in that state in the system then air bubbles could not happen.....If the system was low on refrigerant it could have gaps in there maybe? This is speculation on my part,not fact.....
09-12-2005, 11:18 AM
#4
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Theres no way to bleed pressurized gas. Possibly theres a leak & escaped presSure. U may try DIY can fillup (see the video links above), but over/under fill is more than probable.
Pro vacuum/fillup tools needed = hop to a $hop.
Before that, DIY repair to nonleaking system might be possible... there are leak trace liquids that u may add into the system, view with UV light.
PM, ask kcidmil
Pro vacuum/fillup tools needed = hop to a $hop.
Before that, DIY repair to nonleaking system might be possible... there are leak trace liquids that u may add into the system, view with UV light.
PM, ask kcidmil
09-12-2005, 11:17 PM
#5
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Thanks guys!
Wiking: Yeah I've read your writeups pretty well but I haven't been able to find out anything that has helped me fix it yet, therefore I just threw out this thought but as you both say it's probably nothing like that.
And on top of that:
Yesterday I was fiddeling around with the A/C again and realized that the rpm's used to drop a bit, at least for a while, when I engaged the A/C. Yesterday it didn't, which implies the A/C compressor doesn't get engaged when pressing the button. I'm leaning towards an eletrical problem somewhere. I mean the button lights up but I'm pretty sure the compressor doesn't get the signal. Worst case scenario it has something to do with the 5 spd swap (something like the TCU or such) but I hope not.
Now ain't that just super. I hate electrical problems since I can never seem to figure them out. Think I'm just gonna have to let my friend do it for me. He owes me one anyways.
Btw; My friend who works with A/C's and larger cooling facilities for his dad's company says that an A/C system cannot lose liquid unless there's a leak in a hose or something like that, in which case you'd have to repair it. But you never ever have to refill if there hasn't been a leak he says. Don't know myself but I'm thinking it sounds right since a fridge can go decades without service, right? Same system, same principal.
Wiking: Yeah I've read your writeups pretty well but I haven't been able to find out anything that has helped me fix it yet, therefore I just threw out this thought but as you both say it's probably nothing like that.
And on top of that:
Yesterday I was fiddeling around with the A/C again and realized that the rpm's used to drop a bit, at least for a while, when I engaged the A/C. Yesterday it didn't, which implies the A/C compressor doesn't get engaged when pressing the button. I'm leaning towards an eletrical problem somewhere. I mean the button lights up but I'm pretty sure the compressor doesn't get the signal. Worst case scenario it has something to do with the 5 spd swap (something like the TCU or such) but I hope not.
Now ain't that just super. I hate electrical problems since I can never seem to figure them out. Think I'm just gonna have to let my friend do it for me. He owes me one anyways.
Btw; My friend who works with A/C's and larger cooling facilities for his dad's company says that an A/C system cannot lose liquid unless there's a leak in a hose or something like that, in which case you'd have to repair it. But you never ever have to refill if there hasn't been a leak he says. Don't know myself but I'm thinking it sounds right since a fridge can go decades without service, right? Same system, same principal.
09-12-2005, 11:41 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Phatsta
...Same system, same principal.
If A/C intermittently connects, points to some wire connector loose, ripped...
I tried to depict the electical prerequisites in the following pic; these switces u may measure with the 10sek multimeter u gonna buy from biltema...
- Take the liquid tank sw connector off and measure. If its open, make a short to ECU side pins; compressor should engage.
- Do the same to evaporator sensor connector
- Another issue is that u must have the 3 fan relays ok and operable. Plus the compressor relay... swap them from u spare car.
- introduce +12V directly to compressor; does it engage each time u do that? If so, compressor is possibly ok.
For me, I am always happy after I have repaired faults made by my own hands: now I can cont with the original problem.
09-12-2005, 11:57 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by Wiking
- Another issue is that u must have the 3 fan relays ok and operable. Plus the compressor relay... swap them from u spare car.
But nothing I did with the 5spd swap was ever close to any major electrical harness except for the F20/21 which only is for transmission.I'm gonna have to take some time off all the work and do some r&r (work on my car)
09-13-2005, 03:33 AM
#8
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Minor ? correction to tHis ......"Same system, same principal."
I've now new Husqvarna [äktä svenska] freeZer... it has a fan for the cooling as maxima, but missing are the outside radiator fans. Worst thing: is its missing the V6 as powerhouse; only a poor sweDish tinywhiny electric motor for the compressor. Takes 280kWh - per year.
I've now new Husqvarna [äktä svenska] freeZer... it has a fan for the cooling as maxima, but missing are the outside radiator fans. Worst thing: is its missing the V6 as powerhouse; only a poor sweDish tinywhiny electric motor for the compressor. Takes 280kWh - per year.
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