SE & GXE Tiebars the same?
09-18-2005, 11:06 AM
#1
SE & GXE Tiebars the same?
My 91 GXE is stranded at a NYC dealership that wants to ream me. The rear tie-bar broke going over the Verrazano bridge The only way I can save myself is by picking up the car with a replacement tie-bar in hand. the only one i can get my hands on by today is the one off my 92 SE.
They look the same from memory... but are they?
Tom
They look the same from memory... but are they?
Tom
09-18-2005, 11:38 AM
#3
Originally Posted by Minty91GXE
sway bar i mean.... hmm dealership kept saying rear tie-bar. i hope i bring the right part or i'm screwed.
edit: they quoted the part at 350$, fwiw
edit: they quoted the part at 350$, fwiw
09-18-2005, 01:11 PM
#8
i wonder if the bolts are still the same
i guess i wont know until i'm either stranded or out of there.
when this occured the rear right wheel was wobbling like crazy, its not possible or even remotely safe to drive it. i thought it was a wheel bearing... i had heard of people driving around without their sway bars on, at least temporarily - that was certainly not possible with this amount of play
i guess i wont know until i'm either stranded or out of there.
when this occured the rear right wheel was wobbling like crazy, its not possible or even remotely safe to drive it. i thought it was a wheel bearing... i had heard of people driving around without their sway bars on, at least temporarily - that was certainly not possible with this amount of play
09-18-2005, 03:46 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Minty91GXE
i had heard of people driving around without their sway bars on, at least temporarily - that was certainly not possible with this amount of play
09-18-2005, 03:58 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Minty91GXE
when this occured the rear right wheel was wobbling like crazy, its not possible or even remotely safe to drive it. i thought it was a wheel bearing... i had heard of people driving around without their sway bars on, at least temporarily - that was certainly not possible with this amount of play
I have been looking over the fsm and it looks to me that a parrallel link or the radius rod breaking could be the only thing that could cause the wheel to wobble like you said it was doing....
09-18-2005, 04:21 PM
#11
yeah a sway bar has no effect on a wheel wobbling,look at all the cars that dont have sway bars 
It owudl make your car lean horribly bad around corners though.
SE sway bar woudl be an upgrade anyway everything woudl be the same on both cars with the exception of the busings and the thickness.
It owudl make your car lean horribly bad around corners though.
SE sway bar woudl be an upgrade anyway
everything woudl be the same on both cars with the exception of the busings and the thickness.
09-18-2005, 04:40 PM
#13
most likely they are referring to a parallel link or radius rod. the sway bar won't cause the car to do anything funky like that. it'll just lean more in corners.
a broken parallel link or radius rod shouldn't cost anywhere near $350 though. only thing that's close to that price is the rear crossmember at under $300. and considering it ties the L and R sides together, I'm going ot think this is the part.
you should be able to get one from a junkyard for not a lot of money. I've never heard of one breaking, but if you live in the rust belt, it wouldn't completely surprise me.
nissanparts.cc says:
(part #) (desc) (list price) (our price)
55121-89E00 Link-parallel R $70.25 $53.53
55401-85E01 Member Assy-rear $293.45 $223.61
56230-89E00 Bar Torsion Rea $165.38 $126.02
55110-85E10 Link-lower $63.10 $48.08
the rear crossmember takes less than an hour to change, especially if the car is on a lift. it's a very easy job.
a broken parallel link or radius rod shouldn't cost anywhere near $350 though. only thing that's close to that price is the rear crossmember at under $300. and considering it ties the L and R sides together, I'm going ot think this is the part.
you should be able to get one from a junkyard for not a lot of money. I've never heard of one breaking, but if you live in the rust belt, it wouldn't completely surprise me.
nissanparts.cc says:
(part #) (desc) (list price) (our price)
55121-89E00 Link-parallel R $70.25 $53.53
55401-85E01 Member Assy-rear $293.45 $223.61
56230-89E00 Bar Torsion Rea $165.38 $126.02
55110-85E10 Link-lower $63.10 $48.08
the rear crossmember takes less than an hour to change, especially if the car is on a lift. it's a very easy job.
09-18-2005, 05:55 PM
#14
i thought the rear parallel links were the best bet. it only effected one wheel. i just dont get it. i pulled the wheel right before the tolls to take a look around and saw nothing out of the ordinary, i couldnt wiggle the hub, i pulled on all the suspension compenents, everything seemed tight. damn i wish it was here. sounds like the best i can do is just bring a few things, my tools, find a shady parking spot and hope for the best. ****!
tom
edit: the car has only seen snow, salt and ice once and literally doesnt have a spot of rust anywhere on the entire body. i agree that the crossmember would probably not be broken.
tom
edit: the car has only seen snow, salt and ice once and literally doesnt have a spot of rust anywhere on the entire body. i agree that the crossmember would probably not be broken.
09-18-2005, 07:13 PM
#15
actually now that i've been thinking about it - i think there was a warning sign that started about 20-30 miles before it went. i would get a budah-budah-budah-budah, quick bumping sound, faint, while travelling at highway speeds - ONLY when i was gradually curving left or right... i forget which. then the bridge killed it. pulling the handbrake gently while driving would allow the drum brakes to set it straight, but it would quickly lose balance again.
plan is to wake up early, be at salvage yard when it opens, grab a parallel link and radius rod from another gxe, go home, change, go to work, leave early, head to NY, rescue car -
also: the 350$ really doesnt tell me much about the part. i bought a shift linkage bushing (list 1.50) from these guys one and it was 5.00
plan is to wake up early, be at salvage yard when it opens, grab a parallel link and radius rod from another gxe, go home, change, go to work, leave early, head to NY, rescue car -
also: the 350$ really doesnt tell me much about the part. i bought a shift linkage bushing (list 1.50) from these guys one and it was 5.00
09-19-2005, 09:20 PM
#16
got it from the dealer this afternoon. wheel looked much worse than before - when pulling it out of the lot, the wheel looked like it was going to fall off. the mechanic seemed like a good guy, gave me a look like "damn". i pulled it out of the lot, around the next corner, loosened lugs and then jacked it up. the adjustable parallel link was in 2 pieces. Interestingly, it had worked itself gradually into 2 pieces by slowly stripping threads. the gap between threads grew and grew until the lower half simply slipped out, totally stripped. my friend timed me and it took exactly 16 minutes to do the whole job on the corner with some hand tools. i had pulled 2 parallel links from a salvage yard (50$) thanks to some good advice on here. then drove around until i was sure of it and pulled back onto the BQE and headed south. it was perfect again, i had adjusted the new link to the same length as the old (old position was visible on the paint). still drove straight as an arrow. going to take it in for my free alignment anyway.
16 minutes, 50$ OR 3 days 700$
another reason to donate to the .org
tom
16 minutes, 50$ OR 3 days 700$
another reason to donate to the .org
tom
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