I was planning on buying an Underdrive Pulley for my VE.....BUT i will have about 3000 watts in the trunk.....with capacitors for the stereo, new and clean grounds, and a new stronger alternator....would i have any dimming?

I want an underdrive pulley, but thats alot of electronics i nthe car, plus my AC, windows, etc. Any suggestions?

 

I've got a 2500W RMS system in the trunk and no problems.
read other posts on this for more info. there are many out there, even within the last two weeks I've seen a few.

 

Matt, do you ever turn your stereo up all the way or at least almost all the way?

 

Humm thats sounds like alot. I have the VG engine and have a UDP and mine dims alot under mulitple things running like apply brakes and stereo is crancked up and the headlight are on, the cluster dims. But other then that it works great. Money well spent I think. I got mine from internetautomart it waz liek $189 + shippin

 

But of course! why have a $15,000 stereo if you don't use it?

95% of the time the power just there for dynamics as my system is built for SQ and not SPL... but occasionally I'll open it up and cook the dust off the amps for a while.. if I'm out in the sticks on a nice day/evening, most of the time the windows are down and the stereo is cranked.

 

I'm just curious because I have roughly 1300watts and I have voltage problems. I have the big three, new alternator, 15 fared cap (i really don't think this thing does a whole lot), new optima red top battery, and great connections everywhere. I'm installing more amps on saturday so I definitely need at LEAST a second battery. I could even use an extra battery now.

 

get rid of that 15 Farad cap- those things are horrible, with high ESR... they burn more energy than they store most often, and they don't release the energy fast enough to do what they're supposed to do.

get rid of the 15F cap and buy a couple high quality electrolytic caps (the large can-shaped ones).
you can generally get them for about $75-100 per Farad. I paid about $150 for a 2F cap a few years back and I haven't had any problems.
my sub amp is a CONSERVATIVE 1200W RMS and when I crank it up, I barely have any dimming lights.

I'm also running 1/0 welding cable front to rear and the cap is connected within 6" of my distribution block.. my grounds are made up of the same size wires from the battery to the frame rail inside the left fender. in the back I have a huge lug-type connector bolted to the frame and 1/0 running to the ground distro block.
make sure you do the wiring right and you won't have a problem.

 

There is around 1500watts of JL power (because lets face it, 3000watts... chances are pointing to a "" number) in my Dad's car, no caps at all. Only some minor dimming when you really have it cranked (of the dash lights), and even then you have to be looking for it.

Standard OEM battery, no electrical system upgrades, just running good, clean wire.

 

I also have 1/0 for both power and ground. The lights dimmed a little bit more before I got the cap with the same set-up. The cap is made by alumapro and I've always heard it's the best. I think an extra bettery will do alot more than a cap.

 

keep thinking.. your lights will keep dimming.

an extra bettery will help, but you need to ditch that alumapro first. trust me.

 

my stinger 1 farad cap worked wonders in my old 93