Need ASAP help for Oil Leak
10-04-2005, 08:18 AM
#1
I miss my VE
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
Need ASAP help for Oil Leak
Last thread for awhile, promise. 
Okay, been leakin some oil lately, waiting to get around to it. I was gonna do it myself, but I really can't find the place or tools to tackle it. Figured it was the crankseal, but from what my "trusty" mechanic that I decided to take the car to says he is 200% sure it's the rusty old oil pan thats causing this slow leak. But that is the only spot it's leaking from under the crank. So he told me he would help me out and do it for $250. He says that you gotta take off alotta crap to get to just the oil pan, and his computer calls for 3 hour labor. Is that a reasonable price for what he is going to be doing, or should I just go somewhere else, or despretly try to do it myself? I really wouldn't mind getting this out of the way today, so any ASAP help would be greatly appreciated. 
Here are some pics...
Edit: He said he would need to replace the oil pan gasket.
Okay, been leakin some oil lately, waiting to get around to it. I was gonna do it myself, but I really can't find the place or tools to tackle it. Figured it was the crankseal, but from what my "trusty" mechanic that I decided to take the car to says he is 200% sure it's the rusty old oil pan thats causing this slow leak. But that is the only spot it's leaking from under the crank. So he told me he would help me out and do it for $250. He says that you gotta take off alotta crap to get to just the oil pan, and his computer calls for 3 hour labor. Is that a reasonable price for what he is going to be doing, or should I just go somewhere else, or despretly try to do it myself? I really wouldn't mind getting this out of the way today, so any ASAP help would be greatly appreciated. Here are some pics...
Edit: He said he would need to replace the oil pan gasket.
10-04-2005, 08:25 AM
#2
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Last thread for awhile, promise. Okay, been leakin some oil lately, waiting to get around to it. I was gonna do it myself, but I really can't find the place or tools to tackle it. Figured it was the crankseal, but from what my "trusty" mechanic that I decided to take the car to says he is 200% sure it's the rusty old oil pan thats causing this slow leak. But that is the only spot it's leaking from under the crank. So he told me he would help me out and do it for $250. He says that you gotta take off alotta crap to get to just the oil pan, and his computer calls for 3 hour labor. Is that a reasonable price for what he is going to be doing, or should I just go somewhere else, or despretly try to do it myself? I really wouldn't mind getting this out of the way today, so any ASAP help would be greatly appreciated.
Here are some pics...
Edit: He said he would need to replace the oil pan gasket.
Okay, been leakin some oil lately, waiting to get around to it. I was gonna do it myself, but I really can't find the place or tools to tackle it. Figured it was the crankseal, but from what my "trusty" mechanic that I decided to take the car to says he is 200% sure it's the rusty old oil pan thats causing this slow leak. But that is the only spot it's leaking from under the crank. So he told me he would help me out and do it for $250. He says that you gotta take off alotta crap to get to just the oil pan, and his computer calls for 3 hour labor. Is that a reasonable price for what he is going to be doing, or should I just go somewhere else, or despretly try to do it myself? I really wouldn't mind getting this out of the way today, so any ASAP help would be greatly appreciated. Here are some pics...
Edit: He said he would need to replace the oil pan gasket.
Your mechanic is trying rape you on labor...
Find another mechanic and tell him to just replace the seal only....
10-04-2005, 08:26 AM
#3
does he have xray vision? how can he see that it's NOT the oil seal and it's the oil pan? IMO...do the oil seal first. if it still leaks then pony up for the oil pan job...(good idea to find a new one BTW).
but before you go and do anything...get some brake cleaner in there and spray it clean...then revisit the spot in a few days to see where is it coming from.
but before you go and do anything...get some brake cleaner in there and spray it clean...then revisit the spot in a few days to see where is it coming from.
10-04-2005, 08:29 AM
#4
I miss my VE
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Your mechanic is trying rape you on labor...
Find another mechanic and tell him to just replace the seal only....
Find another mechanic and tell him to just replace the seal only....
10-04-2005, 08:31 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by DanNY
does he have xray vision? how can he see that it's NOT the oil seal and it's the oil pan? IMO...do the oil seal first. if it still leaks then pony up for the oil pan job...(good idea to find a new one BTW).
but before you go and do anything...get some brake cleaner in there and spray it clean...then revisit the spot in a few days to see where is it coming from.
but before you go and do anything...get some brake cleaner in there and spray it clean...then revisit the spot in a few days to see where is it coming from.
Edit: I noticed you and MyGreenMax94 say to do the seal first. So it's actually alot easier to replace the crank seal than the oil pan gasket?? Reason why Im askin is because his computer calls for a 6hr job on the crank seal, and 3 for the pan gasket.
10-04-2005, 08:37 AM
#6
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Your mechanic is trying rape you on labor...
Find another mechanic and tell him to just replace the seal only....
Find another mechanic and tell him to just replace the seal only....
the shop is quoting "book time"...so if the guy finishes early that's his bonus.
10-04-2005, 08:42 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Okay, got it. I won't go with him. But the price seems decent if it actually was the pan gasket?
$250 IMO is "ok"...not a great price but he's not bending you over. he can probably do it for under $200...but make sure this guy is good and you won't have leaks a week later.
matt would probably chime in and say he can do it in 3 hrs.
edit: actually come to think of it...he doesn't have to really drop the x-member..just get it in there and replace the rubber seals on the ends and RTV the heck out of the rest of the pan...but that's if you're not replacing the oil pan.
10-04-2005, 08:44 AM
#8
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Okay, got it. I won't go with him. But the price seems decent if it actually was the pan gasket?
Edit: I noticed you and MyGreenMax94 say to do the seal first. So it's actually alot easier to replace the crank seal than the oil pan gasket?? Reason why Im askin is because his computer calls for a 6hr job on the crank seal, and 3 for the pan gasket.
Edit: I noticed you and MyGreenMax94 say to do the seal first. So it's actually alot easier to replace the crank seal than the oil pan gasket?? Reason why Im askin is because his computer calls for a 6hr job on the crank seal, and 3 for the pan gasket.
10-04-2005, 08:50 AM
#9
I miss my VE
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Originally Posted by DanNY
considering it's a PITA to drop the pan (drop x-member/engine mount..etc)...
$250 IMO is "ok"...not a great price but he's not bending you over. he can probably do it for under $200...but make sure this guy is good and you won't have leaks a week later.
matt would probably chime in and say he can do it in 3 hrs.
$250 IMO is "ok"...not a great price but he's not bending you over. he can probably do it for under $200...but make sure this guy is good and you won't have leaks a week later.
matt would probably chime in and say he can do it in 3 hrs.
Anyway, I guess I really don't have a choice. I might as well do it, ya know. Kinda dangerous to continue driven around like this. Even if it's the seal, not the the gasket like he said, Im pretty sure hes not gonna make me pay extra. Well, thanks alot!
10-04-2005, 08:52 AM
#10
I miss my VE
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
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Originally Posted by DanNY
wtf? are you sure 6hrs for the crank seal?!? i would say it's the other way around. crank seal is a piece of cake on the VE. is he sure that it's the VE motor he's quoting you? you can probably do the crank seal in under 2 hrs (if it all goes smoothly).
Edit: I can already feel how he is tryin to bend me over
Editx2: "Hey, ur pan gasket is no good" and then in the end after all the labor, he'll tell me it was the seal, thinkin I won't know the difference, since it's positioned so nicely under the crank seal.
10-04-2005, 08:58 AM
#11
u can do the crank seal in 20minutes if all goes well u need to find another mechanic
the oil pan gasket sucks bigtime so i would just replace to crank seal its only a couple bucks and im pretty sure that will solve your problem
the oil pan gasket sucks bigtime so i would just replace to crank seal its only a couple bucks and im pretty sure that will solve your problem
10-04-2005, 08:59 AM
#12
Originally Posted by DanNY
your labor rates in TN does not = labor rates in NYC...keep that in mind.
Originally Posted by DanNY
the shop is quoting "book time"...so if the guy finishes early that's his bonus.
10-04-2005, 09:11 AM
#15
I miss my VE
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Originally Posted by Harvs94max
u can do the crank seal in 20minutes if all goes well u need to find another mechanic
the oil pan gasket sucks bigtime so i would just replace to crank seal its only a couple bucks and im pretty sure that will solve your problem
the oil pan gasket sucks bigtime so i would just replace to crank seal its only a couple bucks and im pretty sure that will solve your problem
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I highly recommend spending $20 to search. Because your mechanic is trying to have unnatural relations with you!
10-04-2005, 09:17 AM
#16
Originally Posted by Harvs94max
u can do the crank seal in 20minutes if all goes well u need to find another mechanic
the oil pan gasket sucks bigtime so i would just replace to crank seal its only a couple bucks and im pretty sure that will solve your problem
the oil pan gasket sucks bigtime so i would just replace to crank seal its only a couple bucks and im pretty sure that will solve your problem
you work in a nascar/indy pit crew?
10-04-2005, 09:18 AM
#17
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Wow, it's that easy, eh? This info should be in the FSM, right?
remove crank pulley.
use a pick and pull out the seal.
install new seal.
install crank pulley.
install belts.
10-04-2005, 09:24 AM
#18
The very first time I did this on my VE, it took about 2 hours, but I was going very slowly and deliberately. I also got the crank pulley bolt loose easily w/ my torque gun. I would de-grease that area and watch for a fresh leak. Usually, it is the crank seal but there is a crease in the U-shaped area where the RTV stuff tends to break down and there can be a leak caused by that (I believe Aaron92SE had this problem). Either way, do some more investigating before you hand your car off to the mechanic.
10-04-2005, 09:32 AM
#19
I miss my VE
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Okay fellas, thanks alot. Im probably just gonna lose the mechanic. I'll clean the area down with some brake cleaner, then check in a few days what happens. From there, I will make some arrangements with some friends with garages+tools to do this, cause I just don't wanna pay for something that isn't worth it. Greatly appreciated.
10-04-2005, 09:34 AM
#21
I miss my VE
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Hell just look in the stickies for the REPAIR INFORMATION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Edit: Not bad.. http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f4967.jsp
10-04-2005, 10:45 AM
#22
as everyone else has said, it's not the oil pan. the pan has surface rust on it.
the problem I MOST OFTEN see isn't even the crank seal. it's the rubber lip seal on the pan that goes around the oil pump (and crank seal).
pull the crank pulley off (this takes less than 20 min, btw),
hose the area down with brake cleaner and a brass wire brush to remove all oil and dirt and etc.
grab a tube of RTV silicone and use your fingers to work some RTV into the mating surface between the oil pan and oil pump.. get a pretty good layer on it and again, make sure the area is completely clean and free from oil and dirt/rust/scale/whatever so the RTV will seal properly.
replace the front main seal just for grins. they're under $15 from the dealer..
take some very fine steel wool and brake cleaner and clean off the end of the crank pulley that goes against the seal.
clean it off again, then lube the seal and crank pulley with some oil or moly grease or something good and slippery. don't want to damage the seal when you put the pulley back in.
stick pulley back on. torque to spec. (~1.5 sec on my impact wrench= torque to spec spec)
replace drive belts.
drive away happy.
this will take approx 1 hour to do and total parts cost is under $25 for crank seal, tube of RTV, and a can of brake cleaner.
the problem I MOST OFTEN see isn't even the crank seal. it's the rubber lip seal on the pan that goes around the oil pump (and crank seal).
pull the crank pulley off (this takes less than 20 min, btw),
hose the area down with brake cleaner and a brass wire brush to remove all oil and dirt and etc.
grab a tube of RTV silicone and use your fingers to work some RTV into the mating surface between the oil pan and oil pump.. get a pretty good layer on it and again, make sure the area is completely clean and free from oil and dirt/rust/scale/whatever so the RTV will seal properly.
replace the front main seal just for grins. they're under $15 from the dealer..
take some very fine steel wool and brake cleaner and clean off the end of the crank pulley that goes against the seal.
clean it off again, then lube the seal and crank pulley with some oil or moly grease or something good and slippery. don't want to damage the seal when you put the pulley back in.
stick pulley back on. torque to spec. (~1.5 sec on my impact wrench= torque to spec spec)
replace drive belts.
drive away happy.
this will take approx 1 hour to do and total parts cost is under $25 for crank seal, tube of RTV, and a can of brake cleaner.
10-19-2005, 04:07 AM
#23
I miss my VE
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Hey Matt, thanks alot for that write up. Getting all the parts together, and hopefully will be done this week.
1)I was wondering while Im down there why not replace the belts and go for an UDP. But I read that I would need different belt sizes for the smaller pulley. Could these be had at the dealer by the same size?
2)What else other than that front crank seal is normally replaced while Im down there..? I tried searching, but couldn't get an exact answer. Thanks.
Edit: The pulleys are from ASP? Can't find it on their site.
1)I was wondering while Im down there why not replace the belts and go for an UDP. But I read that I would need different belt sizes for the smaller pulley. Could these be had at the dealer by the same size?
2)What else other than that front crank seal is normally replaced while Im down there..? I tried searching, but couldn't get an exact answer. Thanks.
Edit: The pulleys are from ASP? Can't find it on their site.
10-19-2005, 04:32 AM
#24
It looks like the crank seal to me. I think any northern car will get surface rust on the pan but not to the point that it's leaking oil. The pan isn't that hard to drop however Nissan glues their pans on pretty darn good and I have yet to see one leak that still has the factory seal. 3 hours sounds about right for doing the pan but IMO you just need the crank seal. If you do decide to pull the pan the 2 main obstacles are the Y pipe and cross member. The catch with the Y pipe is breaking studs. I would probably charge $50 labor to do a front seal in a VE car. Shops would get more of course. The pan and block on my VE engine project had lots of surface rust but there was no evidence of the pan leaking. The machine shop I use blasted the pan for me and I spent a lot of time with a wire brush getting the block clean enough to paint. Good Luck!
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