replaceing lower balljoints
but do i need to take off the rotor???
10-10-2005, 05:42 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 476
Dont have to take off the rotor.
It's a pretty easy job. Takes maybe 20 minutes. The hardest part is getting the bolts on the ball joint bracket to line up with the holes in the control arm. It's easiest if the whole front end is jacked up, not just the side you;re working on at the time. Stick the cheapie emergency jack under the control arm and curse at it untill you can get one of teh nuts threaded to pull it together completely.
It's a pretty easy job. Takes maybe 20 minutes. The hardest part is getting the bolts on the ball joint bracket to line up with the holes in the control arm. It's easiest if the whole front end is jacked up, not just the side you;re working on at the time. Stick the cheapie emergency jack under the control arm and curse at it untill you can get one of teh nuts threaded to pull it together completely.
10-11-2005, 06:01 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 445
Its very easy to do. Just dont listen to the repair manual and and take everything apart. All you have to open is the 3 bolts holding the ball joint to the lower control arm and the bolt holding the ball joint to the spindle.
10-11-2005, 06:38 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by alpicone
...very easy ... the ball joint to the spindle.
10-11-2005, 06:49 AM
#8
fortunately, we don't need a welder... well all except for my wife's car that I welded the ball joint in place. 
for the Max, it's rpetty easy to do.
be sure to remove the nut at the top of the ball joint before you unbolt it from the spindle. that will make things easier.. once the nut is almost off, stick a prybar between the ball joint and the CV joint. pry down really hard on the ball joint while you whack the bottom of the spindle with a ball-peen hammer. after a few whacks, it'll pop loose.
NOW remove the 3 bolts on the control arm and remove the ball joint.
for the Max, it's rpetty easy to do.
be sure to remove the nut at the top of the ball joint before you unbolt it from the spindle. that will make things easier.. once the nut is almost off, stick a prybar between the ball joint and the CV joint. pry down really hard on the ball joint while you whack the bottom of the spindle with a ball-peen hammer. after a few whacks, it'll pop loose.
NOW remove the 3 bolts on the control arm and remove the ball joint.
10-11-2005, 07:11 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
fortunately, we don't need a welder...
Originally its not welded in. But some nissans (or what ever) may become 'in-welded'. Is this ? poof of evolotion where Nissan is about to transform into shuttle (= flyin scaffolding)...dunno.
If we are here in this hopeless position, welding on the outer side (arm) expands metal, joint stays still cold and 'drops off'...(when nothin else cannot do it)
10-11-2005, 01:24 PM
#10
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 4
This pulling may be cause by a worn balljoint but most likely, could also be caused by worn bushings on the lower control arm. My 1994 maxima has the same problem and was resolved by replacing the two bushings per control arms, one front , one rear, on both sides. I could not get the bushings in Canada. Here I had to buy the complete Lower control arm. So I ordered them from www.courtesyparts.com and had them installed at a local shop. It is not a DIY job. Th lower control arms have to be removed from the car as the front bushing have to be pressed in the control arm. It is very hard to push in and out without a special press. The rear bushings is easier to install and can be done with the control arm still on the car. Since you do or have someone do the job, you might as weel have the stabilizer bar bushings and links replaced at the same time. This links look like miniatire tie rod end that will hold the stabilizer bar to the control arm. If rusted, they will likely break when removing the control arm.
10-24-2005, 07:00 AM
#19
Originally Posted by 92black4dsc
hi im new to the org. as probably you can tell and in my car im replacing the right control arm and ball joint. my question is if i need an aligment even if i had 1 done 3 months ago.
It is always a good idea to get a alignment after replacing suspension parts...If you can let go of the steering wheel on a level road and it does not veer to the left or right,then it is pretty close...
10-24-2005, 07:34 AM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 8
hey i have a question, very random as well and i dont think it really relates to this thread but once again i do not have 10 posts and cannot submit my own thread... and before you people start getting angry with me for doing this... yes i have tried searching the forums, the search feature is disabled for now and i dont know why. but anyways, for tall people... im speaking 6'0 or taller, do you guys sit with your car seat all the way back and on the 90 maxima, i noticed there are 2 little things on the left of the seat you can turn to adjust the seat angle and height... do you guys like the height of the seat all the way low to the ground or all the way high up? i dunno im just wondering how you guys feel comfortable in your car
10-24-2005, 08:38 AM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by pgroove
... feel comfortable in your car
Headrest is poor, got to have hand tailored. I bet no comfo if ol saggin seat...
92black4dsc
Alignment is DIY, have to be checked after every hit, after car has been on loan...: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1
10-24-2005, 08:53 AM
#23
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 8
Originally Posted by Wiking
Seat max up, max rear, RH pedal max FF, max horses shrieking, max rubber screech...
10-24-2005, 09:01 AM
#24
Originally Posted by pgroove
What do you mean by Seat max up? and max rear along with RH pedal max FF, do you put the seat all the way up so it feels your sitting high up and the seat all the way back? what do you mean by rh pedal max ff haha... can you change like the pedal level or something that would be crazy
10-26-2005, 03:57 PM
#25
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7
ok. finished the control arm and balljoint and let me tell u what a difference from were when i first drove the car. but i havent done the alignment because every time i go to the web site Wiking told me to go my computer freezes up, also when im driving sometimes i feel like im driving some kind of jellymobil cause u could feel the front tires got a mind of their own, even thou they steer were i want to.
the problem occours mostly on the straights or uneven surfaces, and whenever im below 5 mph their is a clunking sound coming from the left front every time i press the breaks
the problem occours mostly on the straights or uneven surfaces, and whenever im below 5 mph their is a clunking sound coming from the left front every time i press the breaks
10-26-2005, 04:58 PM
#28
Originally Posted by 92black4dsc
ok. finished the control arm and balljoint and let me tell u what a difference from were when i first drove the car. but i havent done the alignment because every time i go to the web site Wiking told me to go my computer freezes up, also when im driving sometimes i feel like im driving some kind of jellymobil cause u could feel the front tires got a mind of their own, even thou they steer were i want to.
the problem occours mostly on the straights or uneven surfaces, and whenever im below 5 mph their is a clunking sound coming from the left front every time i press the breaks
the problem occours mostly on the straights or uneven surfaces, and whenever im below 5 mph their is a clunking sound coming from the left front every time i press the breaks
If your car is wandering around the road then i would suspect the tie rod ends are bad....
11-03-2005, 09:20 PM
#29
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 51
Going to throw a question in here, why wouldn't freezing the bushing, and baking the control arm in the oven work to install the bushing. I ordered new bushings for mine today. Going to install this weekend along with new balljoints. BTW the car WILL still wander with new tie rod ends, new struts, strut mounts, wheel bearings, cv shafts, if it still has crappy control arm bushings in it. Another word to the wise, you do not need a press to do wheel bearings. Just a puller, a brass drift, a 2 pound hammer, a rubber dead blow hammer, and around a 2 1/2" socket or so to put on the puller. I'll let you know how the freezer and oven work. Although, I am looking into buying a press (would be so much easier).
11-04-2005, 01:42 AM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Wiking is from sweden, so his english is a little off...You have to do a little deciphering to understand what he means...
Here the English - DeCoded to US:
- Seat max up: Jackit up maximum
- Seat max rear: Push it bckwards maximum
- RH pedal: I have got LH&RH legs, hands, pedals, lamps, doors etc...
- FF equals SONY kickdown
- 1. RH pedal max FF: honda byebye
- 2. max horses shrieking: honda byebye
- 3. max rubber screech... : honda byebye
1+2+3= hbb³
- The thought already is comfortable. : Wikings do like thinkings
11-08-2005, 09:00 PM
#31
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 51
Bought some bushings from Tulsa import parts, cost me about $50. The hardest part was getting the old bushings out. Just took a hacksaw and cut the old sleeve that was pressed into the arm, then took a punch and knocked it out. The new bushings just tapped right in. I only took the control arm off, left everything else bolted in place. Learned something though, when you use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the spindle, DO NOT turn the steering wheel. LOL, I bent the fork closed and was scratching my head as to how to get it off. Just had to finish separating the ball joint, then slip it over the stud, take it over to the truck (big metal bed with strategically placed holes) and pounded it back straight. It's really an easy job to replace them. On top of that, I replaced the ball joints and bushings for under $100. Beats $188 each that Nissan wants for control arms.
11-21-2005, 02:44 AM
#33
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 51
ok, the local stealership is the only place in town that has the control arms. They wanted $188 each. The way my schedule is, I don't ever know when I'll have the time to work on stuff. I can't always wait to order stuff if I only have time then. The place I got my bushings at, had to order them, but I had them the next morning. If I knew exactly when I'd be home, and have enough free time to do this stuff, and could wait a few days for parts, I'd probably be buying it from you. I know some people will understand how that works.
Anyways, the car drives a hell of a lot better now, alignment is close. When I have another day off, I'll take it to have it aligned. Have replaced Struts, Bearings, Bushings, Ball joints, Rotors, Pads, CV shafts. Now I only have to get some new tie rods and tires. This car has been totaled out once, rebuilt, and has 189000 miles on it. Not too bad for $400.
Anyways, the car drives a hell of a lot better now, alignment is close. When I have another day off, I'll take it to have it aligned. Have replaced Struts, Bearings, Bushings, Ball joints, Rotors, Pads, CV shafts. Now I only have to get some new tie rods and tires. This car has been totaled out once, rebuilt, and has 189000 miles on it. Not too bad for $400.
11-21-2005, 06:26 AM
#36
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
fortunately, we don't need a welder... well all except for my wife's car that I welded the ball joint in place.
for the Max, it's rpetty easy to do.
be sure to remove the nut at the top of the ball joint before you unbolt it from the spindle. that will make things easier.. once the nut is almost off, stick a prybar between the ball joint and the CV joint. pry down really hard on the ball joint while you whack the bottom of the spindle with a ball-peen hammer. after a few whacks, it'll pop loose.
NOW remove the 3 bolts on the control arm and remove the ball joint.
for the Max, it's rpetty easy to do.
be sure to remove the nut at the top of the ball joint before you unbolt it from the spindle. that will make things easier.. once the nut is almost off, stick a prybar between the ball joint and the CV joint. pry down really hard on the ball joint while you whack the bottom of the spindle with a ball-peen hammer. after a few whacks, it'll pop loose.
NOW remove the 3 bolts on the control arm and remove the ball joint.
11-21-2005, 07:04 PM
#37
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 36
Originally Posted by internetautomar
I guess I'm weird. If I know my car will need work, I get the parts ahead of time and hope that I'll find the time to install them. Proper planning makes life cheaper 
Maybe you could loan me your crystal ball so I'll know what parts to ask Santa for at Christmas.
11-21-2005, 07:06 PM
#38
Originally Posted by 3rdGenMaximaMan
But isn't the real trick knowing *WHAT* work? I know it seems my car(s) always need something I just never know it is in advance.
Maybe you could loan me your crystal ball so I'll know what parts to ask Santa for at Christmas.
Maybe you could loan me your crystal ball so I'll know what parts to ask Santa for at Christmas.
Let's hope he don't bring a headgasket..
11-21-2005, 07:16 PM
#40
Originally Posted by 3rdGenMaximaMan
But isn't the real trick knowing *WHAT* work? I know it seems my car(s) always need something I just never know it is in advance.
Maybe you could loan me your crystal ball so I'll know what parts to ask Santa for at Christmas.
Maybe you could loan me your crystal ball so I'll know what parts to ask Santa for at Christmas.
I.E. rear brakes squaeling = new semi-loaded calipers, pads and rotors.
I'm a little nutty like that