OH man thats what I wanted to hear! I'll save this post and get to work. BTW-I have a fresh set of khumo's on 16's right now. Has anybody done any of this stuff yet? oh and thanks for going to school!

 

You don't need to run 12's to break the tranny man. lol

Seriously though, if you want to really go fast, N/A is not worth it with our cars. You can break into the 13's, but thats after a good bit of money or completely stripping the car. In order to make the same power N/A as you would with a low-boost setup, you will spend at least $3K. Thats as much as a turbo setup will cost, but all motor you will have hit a wall in which you need to spend much more money to get over. With a turbo, you simply turn up the boost and tune it. Forced induction is a much better bang for the buck. I also don't see the attraction of nitrous, aside from the fact that its easy to install.

 

If you lived near me, Id do it. But no one I come in contact with, has any experience with FI. Id rather go FI than NA but I need at least 1 go-to person.

 

unless you're very hard core about your 3rd gen...drive it until it blows up and go look for another car. investing in FI is more for the mechanically inclined since stuff usually break when you go FI on a NA system.

 

Not to mention that before you go FI you want to have a car that is up to the challenge. Sooo many people add on more crap before fixing other things. Going FI will multiply any problems you have.

All in all, it takes alot of dedication, and money (kind of the same thing), to go FI on these cars. The other thing you "need" to buy or atleast have access to if you go FI is a second car.

 

have you done anything to upgrade the ignition system? maybe upgrade the fuel pump. these are things that are not too crazy but should help a little. of course if you want to go insane why not just threw in a 350z swap? if i remember it was a 3.0L twin turbo. oh course i could be wrong

 

I believe the engine is in very good shape, so I think she COULD handle it but I need more knowledge on the subject.
Loco, no I havent changed any ignition parts cause I dint know that was an option for the VE. Id like the sound of 3.0L TT 92 maxima se-5!

 

Ignition upgrades aren't really a feasible option on the VE.
You won't see a performance increase from the fuel pump.

 

did someone say TT swap kit.............................................

 



 

Yep, Stillen still has a few in stock, along with the RWD kits. I think that if you order both, they will give you 3 free type R stickers to be strategically placed on your car.

 

Somebody do it for me and I'll pay ya...and do it in 3 weeks. And make sure I wont have any problems. And keep the total cost under 4k. These are my wishes That if only they could come true!

 

you have to be a 2002 or older member to use that

 

yeah your memory sux

 

DanNY aka the dream crusher

 

If you are really serious then you can do it. Set a budget, you said under 4k so we will say $4000.00 is the maximum you want to spend. Now how do you stay in budget? Be very very wise in what you buy, Also if you have $4000 to spend, set your budget to $3000 or $2500 otherwise you will go over. First thing as always, RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH!

Obviously know how it works/etc. Get your feet wet with learning about the characteristics of turbochargers and what model/trim would be best suited to your application and goals. Don't get too deep into it because you will come back to it

Overall knowledge of how an engine works, if you change something how will it effect it, etc. Not only how it physically moves, but overall tuning an engine and just how it works.

Now you need to research fuel systems. Injectors, tuning, what does what, if I do this what happens and why?, more tuning, dangers of what can happen when you mess with the fuel system, even more tuning, how it all works. What aftermarket parts do what, and how can they help you achieve your goal, what are the stock limits, etc.

Move on to ignition, how does it work, again if I do this what will happen and why?, what does this aftermarket part do, and how can it help me achieve my goal?

Continue on, asking the same questions for everything lol.

How you want to plumb your system. Not just how you want to run the exhaust and intake tubing, but what about Oil? Coolant? Theres tons of research that go into those aswell.

Re-evaluate what turbo and other parts you want to use, think how can I make this better or is this a solid plan? Always remember it's better to over engineer. Cheaping out on parts in a project like this will just lead to spending more money and having a headache. With a project like this, spending more initially will save you money in the long run. The more you know, the fewer problems you will have.

Now I know I forgot stuff, but you get the gist.

 

Well said... Nitrous it will be.

 

I have a brand new N.O.S. dry setup (#05122). $375 + ship and it's yours

 

point game match.

 

I don't play Tennis

 

Dont you have enuff of my money?! I'll bet your're still counting those one's...But nah, I want a wet joint. Thats a good price tho...what size shot/s.

 

hahahhaha

40/75 IIRC

 

Nitrous is for sissy's

Build your own turbo setup.. you dont need a local person.. that's the beauty of the intraw3b

 

Nitrous is great for the 1/4 mile. But I know that turbo is the greatest. Now, add a shot of nitrous on top of that and you'll find a huge grin on your face!

I haven't heard anybody say this.... but WEIGHT REDUCTION! Haha, that is, if you want to strip down your car and consider it your beater. But when you are out of ideas and money, start losing weight! It's one of the most cost effective ways to perform better.

 

I have never needed my spare so I could shave that weight.

 

The rear bumper reinforcement weighs about 50lbs. but then your *** end creeps higher, might have to cut your springs to keep it level.

 

My biggest problem with nitrous is that it isnt always there. You need to arm it, and really shouldnt use it on the street unless you want to pay for refills. With as much fun as I've had with a turbo, I would have spent the same $$ just in nitrous refills if I went that route.

 

That's a good point! If I had nitrous, I would spray every single day. I would go thru a bottle in less than a few days. That's over $200-300 a month in just refilling my bottle.

 

i know ZEX has remote bottle opener. why not just use something like that when your just driving around. I mean come on i speed most of the time but not to the piont i would need to spray to beat a 90 year old lady off the line in a Ford escort. Or race someone to a good parking spot. Lets face it when you feel froggy arm it the rest of the time if your like me you might be speeding but when your the only one racing it's no fun. Here's a link about
Remote Bottle Opener

 

Haye to bring up this movie again for reference but...Could i do like Dom and have 4 small bottles hidden away instead of 1 huge scuba tank?

 

I mentioned lighter wheels, but your kind of weight reduction takes away things like quiet cabin, stereo quality and definitely changes some of the best qualities in a Maxima.

Like a few guys have mentioned, it's not really worth it to go ***** out on a Maxima unless you have the dedication, money and mechanical skill to make it all work. There aren't many shops that are going to work on some custom engine or turbo set up in a car they aren't very familiar with.

If you could sell your car for $3k-$4k and you have another $4k you were going to put toward mods, you have enough to buy a DSM, mod it and run high 12s, no sweat. Or for that kind of $$ you could buy an S13 and an SR20DET. Maybe with install and tuning, those would be a little more than $7k, but not by much. They are also both cars that lots of tuning shops know and can work on/tune to maximize their potential.

A guy I know has a 92 Talon TSi he bought for $3k, has about $3k in mods (16g turbo, FMIC, manual boost controller, 3-inch DP and exhaust) and he runs a consistent 13.1-13.2 with zero weight reduction, full interior and some heavy 17 inch cast rims. By taking out his interior/spare, etc, he would be in the 12s, he just doesn't want to. His car also outhandles mine all to hell and all he has are Eibach springs. By comparison, I run high 14s and I have one of the faster N/A 3rd gen Maximas on this board. (Aaron is a stud at 14.3) and the only faster Maximas than mid to upper 14s all have turbos. Those guys still aren't near the 12s.

Maximas are great cruising cars. They are fairly quick, reliable and handle well for a 4-door car. The problem is, they have a heavy iron block, making them front heavy, and they are a long 4-door car.

 

 

when you're running FI...iron block is stronger than an alum block.

downfall is the extra weight.

 

why? because you're going to race every damn car out there? self control?

 

haahaa...how much faster do you think you'll be w/o a spare on the streets?

better pony up for AAA now

 

Carbon fiber spare?

 

DanNy is a post *****, 4 posts straight..... ha ham an just kidding......go carbon fiber definately, fill your tires up with helium...LOL

 

No, I would do it out of sheer excitement.

 

Really, I wasn't talking about FI. He said he wasn't really interested in doing FI and I was giving my opinion. Once you reduce weight and do most of the common bolt-ons on a VE, you need lots of money and/or mechanical skills to reach below mid 14s.

Really, with VEs, FI is basically not a very realistic part of the equasion. There are less than a half dozen guys that have done it on a VE that are known and everything has to be done totally custom.

 

For one thing there is always going to be a cheaper car to mod to go faster. However that isn't the point, otherwise no one would be modifing the cars they do now. When you look at what kind of car the max is, NA V6 4dr sedan there are not many cars in its class that have much more advantage. Mostly all of the "faster" cars to modify are FI'd from the factory or run bigger engines.

Now if one wanted to hit mid-low 13s NA it can be done although on an expensive budget. If the same person wanted to run mid-low 12s on FI it can be done on a simular budget. Given the proper suspension setup a 3200lb car with around 200-220whp should trap 101-104mph and run low 13s with 1.8x 60'. 200-220whp should easily be done with cams + bolt ons/tuning.