Since it seems like a lot of people have problems with knock sensors in their cars, here is some info on where to get one for $68 shipped.
This guy sells on eBay, and his user name is: hrspwr-281. If the link below don't work you can either search by his user name, or by the name of the item: NISSAN KNOCK SENSOR - 22060-30P00 - $68.00
Just put it in the search. This sensor is for VE.
Here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

(this is the 1st tread I'm posting, so I hope I got this link to work right)

 

Welcome fellow Seattle resident. That looks like the VE p/n for the ks. Auction says 93-99 maxima. Probably should read 92-99 if it's only VE and VQ. Or 89-2001 for VE/VQ and VG maximas.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=433182



beat Jeffy to it

 

Thanks, there are a lot of you guys around here!

 

VG has a different knock sensor

 

Yeah, it should read '92 and up. And VG does have a different sensor.

 

One more thing, I also found this part number for the knock sensor for the VE: 22060-00001. This one is: 22060-30P00. They look the same, and both have that yellow dot on them. May be the last 5 digits just mean a manufactorer, or something. Also, did you know that Ford and some other manufactorers have knock sensors that look almost ecsactly the same on some of their cars? Ford ones only cost around $25 new, too. Wonder if we could use them on our cars. I don't see why not. I wanna take a look at one, see what kind of connection it has. Does anybody knows a reason why it wouldn't work?

 

just check the resistance too.

 

Buy one 50c piezo element (or cannibalize a kids toy, 0$) and open KS and replace. Most probably the bronze/Alu -piezo element needs just pretensioning and then gets new life... I guess. A element gives no resistance reading 'on the table'. Bend it, and immediately register ohms reading.

I did not bother to do anythin for KS - just bypassed this nippon curse.
see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/9

 

Well I think I would just go with the $68 one on Ebay if I were you instead of trying new things. Make sure to get the right one, you don't want to have to do it twice, I've changed 2 a VE knock sensors and it's a PITA By the way, I just bought a KS from that seller and installed it last week.

On the other hand, if you tried the Ford one and it worked fine, you would be a pretty popular guy among Maxima owners, kind of a Pioneer of the whole Knock Sensor issue. It would be great if we could get one for $25.

Like someone else said, you could test the resistance in the Ford one and if it's the same it should work. If you know someone with a 95+ Maxima you could throw it on there and test it out (It only takes 15 minutes to change a VQ knock sensor vs. 3-5 hours on a VE).

 

Seriously? Oh man, mine'll never get changed.

 

I bought one from this seller last weekend, next weekend is going to be a big project! I'm changing my VTCs and the Knock Sensor, as well as O2 sensor, water pump etc. Hopefully can finish it on Saturday, so I didn't have to waste my Sunday as well. Also, I just talked to this seller and he says he tried to post a tread on this forum, but couldn't 'cause of the regestering/newbie rulls, so he asked me to help him. Any ideas where would be the best place to post this info, so people could see it? I mean, this is pretty good deal, may be MrGone would make it a STICKY?

 

If Chris (Cliff Clavin) can check his old paper work for the knock sensor harness part number that would help aswell. There is an updated version which you'll want. I would also see if he could post the KS number to verify that you have the right one. Make sure you replace the harness aswell.

You can do a knock sensor in an hour-hour and a half if you know what you are doing.

I didn't realize you were doing the KS at the same time as the VTC's. If you are doing the VTC's alone then you dont even have to remove the lower intake manifold, but you do with the knock sensor.

Don't forget to have extra coolant, you will lose some during this job
Grab a PCV valve while you are at it, never hurts and is uber easy with the intake manifold off.

 

Well that's how long it took me the first time, but I also ran into an issue (didn't have the right harness) and it took a little longer. I also spent quite a bit of time spraying out all the manifolds and throttle body and making sure they were perfectly clean. The second time I did it I think it took about 2 hours or so.

Thanks for making me look bad An hour still seems REALLY fast though, do you have that on tape?

 

Just knowing what your doing, Having the proper tools, and having all the parts you need or could potientially need saves alot of time.