I am still having trouble with me Ve
symptoms: car runs and idle rough (idle dosnt fluctuate just feels rough) while warming up, backfires, and hesitates once car is warmed up it runs perfect and even when it is rough it dosnt lack power if i gun the throttle it accelerates normally car also dosnt want to fire up right away (cranks for a while then fires)somtimes dosnt matter if its cold or warm

things i have done so far
new tps sensor
new coolant temp sensor
new spark plugs
intake manifold gasket
cleaned all grounds and electrical harness
cleaned and sealed iacv
cleaned tb new gasket
new vaccum hoses
did vaccum test and everything is normal
changed coil packs with known working ones still didnt change a thing
installed an inline fuel pressure gauge and i get 38psi at idle
new fuel filter

im going to replace the pcv valve cuz it makes a funny noise when i shut down engine
exhaust is also makeing kind of a put put sound at idle(like a misfire)
i have been reading and rereading threads and it seems like symtoms of a bad injector but the car has never once given me a problem when warm
it also feels very strong

idk what else to do and i dont want to replace injectors if thats not it but i have a feeling it is fuel related and i pretty much ruled out regulator and pump and there are no leaks and all lines look in great shape

anyone got any ideas
also how do i check timing on the ve i dont see a loop anywhere for the gun

ill post pics of my fuel pressure gauge its a "home depot mod" turned out cool and only cost 20 bucks

 

For timing u need extension wire: 4 inches?

Clean PCV. Block the hose to tst.

Bad cam pos sensor -signal causes bad idle. Earlier 3gen versions did not even start with bad campos. Its grounding ok?

 

i cleaned the pcv out and it still makes a funny noise

 

Wiking you don't even have a VE, so why........


For the timming, you need to remove the #1 coil and run a high voltage cable from the coil down to the spark plug. it needs to be around 18" long, since the spark plug is about 12" down.

Have you checked the resistance of the injectors? they typically: fail electrically, the screen cloggs, and the o-rings leak.

If you plan on keeping your max, you should replace all coils, and all injectors. BIT THE BULLET

 

Hey Harv, sounds like an injector problem, especially if you can hear it in the exhaust. Try unpluging the coils one by one. The motor should run rough each time you unplug one, if it doesn't run rough when you unplug one then there's an issue with that cylinder, most likely the fuel injector. Like someone else said you can also check the resistance of the fuel injectors, just use an OHMeter. The front ones are easy to check but the rear ones you have to check by unpluging the harness or something, I can't remember all of it. The resistance should be 12-14 I think.

Also, when you accelerate does it just get to a certain point and kind of "kick in" and accelerate perfectly the rest of the way after it warms up? That would sound like an injector malfunctioning. Like someone else said, it also could be the injectors leaking around the O-rings or something, you said you've never had a problem when the car is warmed up, maybe the O-rings expand a little when it's warm and they stop leaking? If it's starting funny it almost sounds like it's getting flooded due to injector issues.

All of the injectors are pretty new. IIRC two out of the three front ones were replaced about a year ago.

Edit: I don't think you need a wire to do the timing, just put the timing light clamp on the coil harness on the #1 cylinder and you'll get a good signal. The timing marks are hard to see though, on the pulley side of the motor, you'll see them if you look hard enough.

 

just refund him for the defective car

 

i unpluged each coil last week and each time the car ran rougher so i still cant pin point the injector
i took intake manifold off a couple days ago and there was no leaking around the injectors and the back injectors looked in great shape
also when i accelerate the car accelerates normaly no hestiation
its when im coasting or accelerating slowly when cold thats when i get hesitation
if i give it gas thats when things get better and i also tryed checking resistance with an ohm meter but i dont think it was working correctly cuz each was 0 ohms

i am just surprised that nothing is wrong with teh car when things r warm u would think that atleast once something would act wierd

i also am haveing starting propblems somtimes it cracks for a few seconds then fires

jwmaxse (rosamax) whats going on dude i havent herd from u in a long time i think u would like what i have done to ur car
u do anything to ur 300 yet

 

I'm not very experienced with the ohmeter, I have a digital one and just had to read the instructions in the book for measuring resistance. If it was measuring 0 ohms then you have to change the setting to something smaller until it registers. You just hook up one clamp to each pin on the fuel injector, if it doesn't work one way then switch them around and it should give you a reading. For the rear injectors you have to unplug the harness and there are four prongs on it I think, one of them is ground or something, so hook the black up to that and measure each of the rest of them and you should get something close to 12, if it's much higher then it's bad. Hopefully someone else will chime in w/ better info if I'm wrong.

Your car looks great, I miss the comfy leather seats, nice black interior, and 3rd gen styling. I'll bet it's a totally different car now with the suspension mods and JWT ECU.

The Z is a giant garage ornament that just collects dust right now. I think it has a sticky lifter so I'm hopefully going to throw some rebuilt heads on it this winter and get it on the road for next summer. I need to get the rear camber fixed too

I'm focusing on the 4th gen at the moment, just got my CAT in today so I can pass emissions, need to do some suspension work and throw on some H&R's w/in the next few weeks maybe.

Anyway, It's good to hear that the car runs well while warm, that means that it's nothing too serious.

 

It will not run if true. As said, try through all multimeter positions in ohms -range. My bet is not on injectors after your explanation.

No info given (?) on campos sensor yet...

My bet is on: MAF, JWT, Cam Pos, Alt (tst/disconnect), wirings/connectors

 

i will test maf and cps
alt is just about brand new oem nissn unit
jwt?
wiring connectors?

 

There are two o-rings per injector, one seals it from leaking into the engine bay, the other from leaking into the cylinder. The injector needs to be removed from the fuel rail to check them.

also revisit the ohm meter and try to get their values.

 

you cannot check the timming like that, even if you do get a signal from that connector. The time that the coil gets charged on/off and the time the spark plug fires will be different.

 

injectors all tested at between 12-13ohms
timing is 20degrees
checked maf voltage with ign on idle and 2500 and it was all in spec

 

I think the damn thing is possesed

 

Me VE does the same thing...I dont think you can get a VE engine with some milage on it to run smooth....This VE engine has a history of leaking head gaskets

Do a compression check on each cylinder....even if they all fall within spec....if you have one lower on compression than the others, that willa cause a put-put-put idle.

 

My VE is almost at 175k miles... one cylinder is almost dead per a compression test over a year ago.. and it still purs like a kitten... gotta love the v3 p0wAh

 

my current VE shows 237k on the ODO and it runs GRRRREAAATTT

 

cool then drive it up here and help me with my poopy ve

 

still needs it's tails pulled and installed.
very busy this month. if you haven't gotten this figured out by the second week in november, we'll setup a meeting to play part swap.

this week is the last days of sukkot (jewish holiday)next week is the AAPEX/SEMA show so I'll be in vegas

 

New alt, suspicious as anythin: cheap tst is to drive without. Unplug charge cable and tst, see http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/5

U mentioned new jwt. If u mentioned new xyz, I'd hold it responsible until proven otherwise

Wirings/Connectors. Yes, and see why. start from http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14

And btw, throw the *bosch* so called plugs into the sea. NGK.

(alas, CDomain is down. maybe they get it up?)

edit: ITS now UP! Take out [2.] for tst.

 

i will take out #2
i only buy ngk spark plugs
i dont see how an alternator will cause backfiring and it was in brians car before mine and he never had a problem

 

i dont see u car. Cannot quantify all the problems with my fingers...

thereby. I just want to exclude all possibilities, and help u by telling how...

Any troubleshooting in electronics (with max, thats the case!) starts from testing with reliable methods the supply voltage at all places, computer processor pins etc... Those who dont observe these basics, call for support.

Alternator rectifier may be blown any day. This may cause spikes in supply. This may cause just about anything in processor logic.

Take alt wire off: THIS problem possibility is excluded (probability low).

Dont take, tst, verify, its all yours....

 

the alternator is only a couple of months old and I had no issues with it.
an alternator can cause poor running (inadequate voltage to coil so poor spark) but misfire/backfire aren't teribly likely

 

did ur altenator test wiking still the same
i also cleaned some more grounds and a bunch more harnesses and all relays
then i replaced the pcv valve which was make a wierd noise and this morning it didnt backfire or hesitate but it still ran real rough
car seems to idle rough and the exhasut sound is inconsistant dosnt sound smooth
the only thing left taht i can think of is to test the cps which i will do
should i get a new o ring for it?

 

Normally no.

If u call computer support center in this trblshoot -phase, they'll ask: "what has NOT been changed yet???" You'll answer: "blaa blaa blaa."
They'll hlp u out by saying: "Next, change the blaa blaa blaa."

Theres still lots miles to 'walk': wiring, fusing, connectors, ECU's, voltage measurements to do. Physically view/inspect wiring running into cabin via driver fender, SMJ's... -or- do harness resistance leak test with a real tester.

 

well i tested the cps
took it out unplugged transistor, key in on position, backprobed wire A turned sensor and it fluctuated from 0-5 volts backprobed terminal b and it never even got to 1 volt
either this is a problem or i just did the test wrong i tryed several times same result

so if anyone has a cam position sensor in good shape let me know or is willing to send me one so i can just swap it and see if that is my problem let me know

 

I'll send you mine...Just pay shipping..

 

HERE WE GO AGAIN!

In your previous thread your were given EXCELLENT advice by many .org members yet you only hear what you want to hear. Take to a dealer for a Diagnosis for 60 bucks and get some real answers sometimes you need to take to someone who has a little more knowledge than yourself.

Wiking doesnt even own a US SPEC VE...

BTW a CPS will trigger and ECU code ...but go ahead and replace that too and while your at it rotate the tires

 

HERE WE GO AGAIN
what do u mean i only hear what i want to hear i have done everything everyone has said to do
i am not buying a brand new cps im trying to swap one in to see if it works
and i dont want to take in my car because i want to figure this out on my own
please tell me what is wrong with that
i am simply asking for help, people are giving it to me, i try what they say and move on isnt this what a forum is for
as far as the ecu this is an obd1 car we dont get cel like u forth gen guys
and dont nock on viking he is one of the most knowledgeable 3rd gen guys we have

thanks i sent u a pm

 

"BTW a CPS will trigger and ECU code ...but go ahead and replace that too and while your at it rotate the tires"



this means that a out of SPEC CPS will store a code in the ECU. It doesnt mean the idiot light will flash or illuminate and at no point did i say that. On my 1992 VE (winter car) i pulled it from the ECU even though I had no check engine light. You car can still store codes and not have a check engine light.

Just because I own a 4th generation doesnt mean I dont own other cars. In particular a 3rd generation like yourself that had the same problems as yours and had a failing CPS and bad ignition coil, now it runs fine..

BTW Mr. Wikings information is not relevant and doesnot apply. If you lived in Europe maybe. But to each his own, if you want to run around in circles with him be my guest

 

Whoa! Where did that come from? I don't think it makes any difference that Wiking doesn't have a US spec, a car is a car and you can work on any make and model with just general knowledge of vehicles.

As far as getting a diagnosis from a dealer, I think I'd try everything else first. I just wouldn't want to spend $60 and then have them tell me that they don't know what's wrong or just tell me to start swapping parts.

Harvsmax--That is a good point about the ECU code, have you tried pulling the ECU codes yet? If an electrical part is totally malfunctioning then the ECU will usually tell you what's wrong OBDII or not. I was able to pull the codes on my Z to tell me that the CPS was bad, replaced it and it worked fine.

 

you missed his other thread asking the same questions.....

 

i tryed pulling codes a while ago and it gives me normal 55

my green max is sending me a cps so ill see how that goes
jwmaxse i might be buying another max (beater ve5) by you if i do we should meet up and u can take a look at ur old max

 

Oh, yeah I don't think I saw that one. The elusive VE can be hard to tame though and sometime requires multiple posts

Hopefully that does it then, unfortunately the ECU doesn't tell all, remember the IACV issue I could only guess what it was, luckily I guessed right.

That would be great, I live within a mile of where you met me before. Where and when are you picking up the beater? Yeah, maybe we can meet up, it looks like you've done alot to it. We could race but I don't want to get beat You are quite a few mods ahead of me (JWT, UDP, Fidanza, Ground Kit, Exhaust) I'd have to break out the Z if you wanted to race

 

I got a good signal that way. You actually read the signal into the coil. Good enough. I've timed it this way lots of times.

 

You guys had just better not do the meet on a saturday
I know harv wants to see my max

 

i donno even if im getting it. im trying. i would like a parts car
yeah i will have to swing by an check it out
if i get that beater it has full leather interior (i think its black)if you need anything for that tan interior u can pick it out

i should be getting that cam sensor in on saturday so ill keep updated im determined to figure this out
-i hate when people post threads about having troubles and then never say what fixed there problem-

 

they only thing I need is a black/gray carpet. I kept the rest from my old max

 

Are you wanting to meet to then? Saturdays don't work for you? Maybe we can all work something out. I don't know how you guys are about hanging out with a fourth gen guy though

 

you're right 4th gen = teh
Crappiest maxs built.

nah, saturdays are a permanent nogo