I'm guessing that having a car from 1989 means things work a lot different then they do now lol. When you turn your car and you turn the heat, you have to get the engine going or drive for a little while to get it to warm. Like the more gas you give it, the more the car works to produce heat. I was wondering if there is a flush of somekind or any side notes I should know about getting the heat going quicker. I remotley start the car, but it's not like the heat really starts coming till I get in the car and start driving, although the engines warmer and it's quicker to produce more heat

WHAT I'M TRYING TO ASK HERE is if there is any maintnace (some kind of fluid flushes for example) that could decrease the time it takes for the heater to begin producing warm air?


Damn, I look at what I just wrote lol........

 

If its taking a while for it to heat up, try changing the thermostat. Someone suggested that to me, it takes a while in teh morning for my heater to get warm, and also for my engine temp to get up to normal.
Try it, worth a shot thermostat is cheap.

 

Well, if you have not done this recently flush your cooling system. There may well be partial blockage in your heater core. When I let my Max idle for just a couple of minutes the heater is blowing pretty dang good. Since your heater core runs totally independent from the cooling system, changing your thermo would have absolutely no effect on how well your heater works.

 

Heater Core has been changed. Thermo has been changed.

So am I going with a Cooling system flush?

 

Sounds like the key. I end up flushing mine every 6 months. Never had a problem with heating.

 

Yeah cooling system flush you could have a perfectly good heater core but some debris could go up there and could block it..... I am about to do the same thing because my max is suffering from the EXACT same symptoms...

 

Thanks Guys!

 

better idea: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/B...001648/c-10101
one of those. I'd also look for the type that you splice into the hose. A company called KAT made them

 

how about a stuck heater valce causing the issue? You know when you switch the switch from hot to cold, the heater valve is suppose to open and close. Mine doesn't, but I still get hot air and cold air/AC when I want it.

 

you could be jammed part way then

 

yea, my friend and I have messed around with it before and nothing. He is going tomorrow to pick me up a new one so I guess we'll see, but I think I should get the system flushed anyways

 

Hey ae89maxse I have a question.....Did u change the heating core yourself or did u have a shop do it? IF you had the shop do it how much did it cost? Also if you did it your self how much did u pay for it and how long did it take you to change?.....help a newbie out....lol

 

probably about 10 guys including myself did it in 10hours or so. Though it was one of the coldest days of the month added to the time it went. I paid like 200 for the part if I remember correctly

 

oops. Not so: Tstat controls coolant temp via regulatin flow through rad.

Cabin temp has direct relation with coolant temp (max heat).

Here Tstat [10.] fully open:

For detailed coolant flow, see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/8

 

Do you know of anyone that has pictures to help me threw the process? Cause I have no idea what Im doing

 

If your car's engine is old/tired/not running right, it will take forever to warm up, thus taking along time to allow the coolant to flow, get it warm and start circulating in the heator core. From what I remember, you have asked this question before and I've answered in similar before.

 

With all the good/fixed parts mentioned above, you can acieve quicker warmup by using higher octane gas. If you completely switch to a higher octane, say 89 or 91, like I did, you can advance your timing to take advantage of a couple extra HP too.

 

That won't change the warm up time significantly. Higher octane actually burns slower

 

Have you tried bleeding the air from the coolant system? On mine there is a bolt on top of the upper radiator hose connection. When adding antifreeze you open this bolt and fill until fluid comes out of this bolt hole. Just a little air in there seems to leave the temp sensor high and dry and cause the temp sensor to read low and the fast idle to stay on longer.

 

matt93se has some

 

I saved them the last time matt put them up,for that special,special day when mine dies...

http://blehmco.com/pics/car/interior...re/1_teardown/

 

It controls coolant flow through the rad, not through the heater core. If it did you would get no heat till the car reached "operating temp" ie no heat till 165(?) but you do, hence theromstat does not control coolant flow through the heater core.

 

True. Tstat controls engine coolant overall temp by regulating main flow via rad. All temp to cabin is taken from 'all over flowin' coolant which comes to core via head & intake. The colder coolant is, the less temp u may get into cabin. This engine temp relation to heat u get into cabin, is very basic knowledge, not my invention or news. 5C change in core coolant is radical 'feelin' if outside temp is -10 or below.

Engine will run below operating temp if Tstat does not do its job. Try to get cabin heat from warmest warmer warm cold colder coldest -engine: temp has direct measurable effect. This cabin temp is second reason why all tedious car keepers require winter Tstat change: summer Tstat is different, colder. The difference in cabin temp is huge!

These facts can be measured - with different Tstats.

 

If I did not go thru that myself, I would not be telling this to anyone. When I drove Accord, octane did not make any difference in warmup time or performance (91 2.0l accord with electronic carburetor from Germany). With my Max I quickly found, that it warmed up in 10 minutes with 87 and in 3-4 minutes with 91 in winter. I do not know how cold is the area where you live, but it makes big difference in the Great White North

 

I have been having the same problem. On the way to work my radiator busted or something.. Car started smoking from under the hood and antifreeze was everwhere. Bought some stop leak ran the heater... no heat. and the temp guage almost on H. I am guessing the thermostat went was going bad and caused the radiator to blow?? Any help??? Please.....

 

Air bubbles... bleed the system.

Tarzan:

The only way I can understand u phenomena, is via ign timing. Bad gas --->knock --->KS retards ign. Good gas, noknock...

 

Back when I bought my max I did not have any knocking at all and was using 87. It's the total time that mixture is burning - shorter with 87, longer with 91 - before it's blown away with airflow. The longer it burns, the more heat is taken by the block. That's why our crappy Ladas could not use octane, higher than 87 - the pistons would burn holes in themselves LOL

I saw a MB 560 with a hole in one of the pistons - the driver did not know (cause it's hard to feel lack of power ROFL) The engine was 'kinda rough' - we could feel vibration if put our palms to the engine heads.

 

I have not seen connection with octane, cannot recall any mention in scientific texts... But then, with my head anythin is possible.

Time to time Ladas seen on the road, rarity. 95 is lowest u can buy here, but export engines may be different...

 

I understand your question, but I'm a little unclear with exactly what's your problem. "Is there some some sort of maintenance that could decrease the time it takes for the heater to begin producing warm air" I say no there isn't.

A couple questions
-When you remote start your car how long do you let it idle before you get in the car?
-After starting your car by remote, where's the temp needle when you get into the car? Is the temp gauge still low or in the middle?

If I get this correct, you are saying that your engine doesn't produce sufficient heat until after you start driving the car regardless of how long you let it idle to warm up. Is that what you're saying?

My $0.02
Once your eng reaches it's operating temp, the heater will produce the same amount of heat regardless if it's sitting there just idling or you're driving the car. This is why I ask where's your temp gauge when you get into the car after remote starting it.

Here at work, the diesel engines in our buses have massive cooling systems. When the ambient temp drops, our engines have a harder time reaching operating temp just sitting there idling. You have to start driving the bus in order for the HVAC system to start procuding sufficient heat. I don't know if you're having a similar problem, but our problem is due to a massive cooling system and a engine that produce low power(heat) just idling.

 

1 word : Cardboard