5speed grinding in second
11-11-2005, 06:18 AM
#1
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5speed grinding in second
Ok I was wondering why my tranny grinds going into second? Whats wrong with it? It been doing this for a while. It grind just about everytime. would this
be an easy cheap fix if I take the tranny back out?
be an easy cheap fix if I take the tranny back out?
11-11-2005, 07:00 AM
#2
The problem is most likely the second gear syncro is going,going...gone.
I have heard a few on here say the ve tranny is alittle stronger then the vg tranny..
Might think about upgrading to it since you are turboed..
I have heard a few on here say the ve tranny is alittle stronger then the vg tranny..
Might think about upgrading to it since you are turboed..
11-11-2005, 10:50 AM
#5
the problem... borg warner 
syncros are probably going out. make sure you aren't using gl-5 gear oil as that definitely won't help. its most likely too late for that though and it might possibly need a new synchro.
i can't remember if they do or not, but www.drivetrain.com might sell them.
syncros are probably going out. make sure you aren't using gl-5 gear oil as that definitely won't help. its most likely too late for that though and it might possibly need a new synchro.
i can't remember if they do or not, but www.drivetrain.com might sell them.
11-11-2005, 12:58 PM
#6
Mine also does this occasionally, except it grinds going into 3rd also, and sometimes 4th lightly. It's not so much an audible grind, as it is just feeling the gears through the shifter not meshing right away. My old gear set did this as well. I'm wondering if my MC just needs adjusting, or if its the Redline tranny fluid I have in it (MT-90).
11-11-2005, 01:40 PM
#8
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the only difference between the VG and VE trans is the vlsd/ring gear. the internals ie gears shafts bearings are all the same even the 2nd gen vg trans has the same stuff but the syncros were upgraded for the 3rd gen
if it only grinds going into 2nd its the syncro if it grinds going into all gears it would be a clutch problem
drivetrain.com does sell the syncro kit for 250 thats all the syncros to get induvidual ones youd have to order from a dealer and there about 60-80 a piece
if it only grinds going into 2nd its the syncro if it grinds going into all gears it would be a clutch problem
drivetrain.com does sell the syncro kit for 250 thats all the syncros to get induvidual ones youd have to order from a dealer and there about 60-80 a piece
11-11-2005, 01:45 PM
#9
The syncros are copper IIRC and as they age, they start going out. The weather can also contribute to difficult shifting. I would use redline mtl. It is expensive, but in order to maintain the Borg Warner POS under boost, you need to use good gear oil. It isn't that easy to fix, but the oil could help out the situation.
11-11-2005, 01:53 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by nismosleeper
The syncros are copper IIRC and as they age, they start going out. The weather can also contribute to difficult shifting. I would use redline mtl. It is expensive, but in order to maintain the Borg Warner POS under boost, you need to use good gear oil. It isn't that easy to fix, but the oil could help out the situation.
11-12-2005, 01:55 PM
#12
The syncros have a sharp edge at the end of each tooth, they should be more rounded so that there will be much less of a stress point on the tips. Also they crack on there weakspots, Most likely from fast/hard shifts. If they crack on the other side as well, then your going to lock up your tranny. The syncro will jam into the gears. This happened to my uncle on the freeway! Too many people shift hard & fast, Not Good! If you want to shift fast, then you do it lightly & smoothly. Your syncros will appreciate it. Also thats just the correct way to shift. There is a race driving technique stated: "The slower you are.....The faster the car will go"
11-12-2005, 02:10 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Duckman540i
There is a race driving technique stated: "The slower you are.....The faster the car will go"
11-14-2005, 07:25 AM
#17
Yeah, it's probly the synchro/blocking ring, the 1-2 shift is the hardest as far as torque on the drivetrain, and the big difference between engine and wheel speed.
there's a couple used VE tranny's in the classifieds section, maybe pick one up for cheap, slap it in and rebuild the one you have now?
there's a couple used VE tranny's in the classifieds section, maybe pick one up for cheap, slap it in and rebuild the one you have now?
11-14-2005, 07:31 AM
#18
or if you can afford the downtime, just pull out the one you have and rebuild it. the factory manual has all the instructions. that's what i used when i rebuilt mine with a buddy a few years back. I think you may need a coulpe special tools like a press.
11-15-2005, 09:40 PM
#19
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 41
Make sure the clutch is fully releasing. Changing the fluid to make sure it has GL4 transaxle fluid and not GL5 gear oil might help. Redline manual transmission light fluid is excellent but expensive. The GL5 oils have too much anti friction additives that make the syncros slip when they should grab.
11-16-2005, 09:12 AM
#20
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My 5 speed doesnt go into first unless im under 15 or 10mph. about 3 times at a stop light its not gone into fist w/o a heavy push, or pushing the clutch all the way down. I dont know what the cause is though. I need to check the oil level. Ill search through old threads or some one can post it. (i really need to donate...) Im thinking one of the imput bearings are gone. The tranny does have 217K (im assuming any way, the parts car it came out of had that much miles)
~Alex
~Alex
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