VG Maximas, replace your distributor rotor
11-20-2005, 08:56 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 678
VG Maximas, replace your distributor rotor
Replaced my distributor rotor today and let me tell you wow! Never thought a $6 part could make such a difference. Not only does the RPMs not drop down to 400 when I take the car out of gear. The car accelerates smoother, and at a traffic light today, was able to chirp the tires taking off like I used to normally.
I noticed on the old one, the end of it was black. I read that these should be replaced every 2 years. Not sure when the last time it was replaced on my Max.
I noticed on the old one, the end of it was black. I read that these should be replaced every 2 years. Not sure when the last time it was replaced on my Max.
11-20-2005, 09:23 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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hmm what u just described is excatualy what mine is doin, where did u pick it up at? and a dumb question, what exactualy does it do? o and i check schucks and they have about 20 different ones to buy, what one will i need?
thanks so much for your help
thanks so much for your help
11-21-2005, 05:15 AM
#8
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Or, you can take a knife and cut off the edges of the rotor, consealing the metal plate in between of them, then bend the pins of the cap towards the center. Same result as replacing both. Keep in mind to clean the white Aluminum oxide from the pins too.
11-21-2005, 06:56 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by Tarzan
Or, you can take a knife and cut off the edges of the rotor, consealing the metal plate in between of them, then bend the pins of the cap towards the center. Same result as replacing both. Keep in mind to clean the white Aluminum oxide from the pins too.
11-21-2005, 07:53 AM
#10
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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It's not 100% ghetto method! The true ghetto tuneup is not to use the knife, but just to bend the pins. Then when you start the engine, the rotor will hit the pins and clean up extra fiberglass itself, it will also clean up the aluminum oxide. There will be some scary noise from the distributor for a mile tho... 
11-21-2005, 08:06 AM
#11
I always replace a cap & rotor as a set. I prefer to use either Nissan or Beck/Arnley. I tried a cheap rotor on my old Camry once and it had a sloppy fit. I took it back and they were able to order Beck/Arnley. IMO they have the best quality aside from Nissan. It's an inexpensive mtc item that may even pay for itself with the mileage improvement.
11-21-2005, 08:23 AM
#12
Man, I couldn't really think that this is good advice. If one of the pins broke off, it might run really rough or not at all. Just replace the thing. They aren't that much.
Originally Posted by Tarzan
It's not 100% ghetto method! The true ghetto tuneup is not to use the knife, but just to bend the pins. Then when you start the engine, the rotor will hit the pins and clean up extra fiberglass itself, it will also clean up the aluminum oxide. There will be some scary noise from the distributor for a mile tho...
11-21-2005, 08:38 AM
#13
Originally Posted by 96ItaliaSE
LOL! this and the cap causes 99% of all the funny idling maxes out there!
11-21-2005, 08:39 AM
#14
Originally Posted by Tarzan
Or, you can take a knife and cut off the edges of the rotor, consealing the metal plate in between of them, then bend the pins of the cap towards the center. Same result as replacing both. Keep in mind to clean the white Aluminum oxide from the pins too.
I guess if you don't even have $20 to put in the gas tank..... but I mean cmon.
11-21-2005, 08:42 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Tarzan
It's not 100% ghetto method! The true ghetto tuneup is not to use the knife, but just to bend the pins. Then when you start the engine, the rotor will hit the pins and clean up extra fiberglass itself, it will also clean up the aluminum oxide. There will be some scary noise from the distributor for a mile tho...
oh and the resistance, would you rather spend $20 on maintenance and knowing it's done right or lots of money on a distributor because of shaft play, and not knowing when it will go out on you.
edit: oh, and worn out dizzy = not accurate timing = not ideal power and economy
11-21-2005, 08:47 AM
#18
Incorrect.
1) Title says VG maximas
2) This post is in the 3-gen maxima section
3) He can have any car he wants. His point still refers to VG Maximas as the title states.
1) Title says VG maximas
2) This post is in the 3-gen maxima section
3) He can have any car he wants. His point still refers to VG Maximas as the title states.
Originally Posted by MrGone
true, however he said Maxima's, not 3rd gens, or even VG's
secondly he has a 96 which only reinforces the point.
secondly he has a 96 which only reinforces the point.
11-21-2005, 08:48 AM
#19
Originally Posted by Grace_Imports
I always replace a cap & rotor as a set. I prefer to use either Nissan or Beck/Arnley. I tried a cheap rotor on my old Camry once and it had a sloppy fit. I took it back and they were able to order Beck/Arnley. IMO they have the best quality aside from Nissan. It's an inexpensive mtc item that may even pay for itself with the mileage improvement.
11-21-2005, 08:48 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Incorrect.
1) Title says VG maximas
2) This post is in the 3-gen maxima section
3) He can have any car he wants. His point still refers to VG Maximas as the title states.
1) Title says VG maximas
2) This post is in the 3-gen maxima section
3) He can have any car he wants. His point still refers to VG Maximas as the title states.
.
11-21-2005, 09:22 AM
#22
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Upper Marlboro, MD
Posts: 129
Originally Posted by ArcticDC5
Replaced my distributor rotor today and let me tell you wow!.......
11-21-2005, 09:45 AM
#23
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,114
Where? What? When? I want one! 
I was trying to find a brass cap for ages! Who sells them?
Update:
Just called NAPA here in town, but the guy actually opened the box and said the contacts were aluminum and yes, it was an Echlin brand.
I was trying to find a brass cap for ages! Who sells them?Update:
Just called NAPA here in town, but the guy actually opened the box and said the contacts were aluminum and yes, it was an Echlin brand.
Originally Posted by MrGone
Echlin/BA brass cap for the win!
11-21-2005, 10:05 AM
#24
Aluminum is Junk. Brass is where its at! Here is Parts america' s brass cap but these parts are sold everywhere
its a borg warner c700
Kinda pricy though 33 bucks
its a borg warner c700
Kinda pricy though 33 bucks
11-21-2005, 11:14 AM
#26
Originally Posted by dtahsee
How do you know when its time to change the distributor rotor? Any particular symptoms? When I accelerate on the highway, sometimes it sounds like a fan or rotor is scraping against something. Could this be a rotor?? Thanks.
. When you do the plugs is a good time but it doesn't hurt to periodically pop the cap and take a look at it for cracks, carbon tracking, or too heavy corrosion buildup on the terminals. Of course I have gone cheap and cleaned the corrosion off the terminals while I was lookin if I didn't want to replace it then. It's also a good time to check out the wires.
11-21-2005, 01:07 PM
#27
Originally Posted by MrGone
not to mention messing up the gap and dwell/duration.
and I'd also have to disagree with most max's being COP. all of the early ones (81-91) were Dizzy and then the lowly VG kept it until 2/94 . But you should have known all of that
11-21-2005, 01:49 PM
#28
Also In A high humidity or where it rains alot enviroment you may have some moisture in there. A shot of wd -40 in there will take care of all moisture problems you have. Its Hygroscopic and absorbes all water.
up here near seattle you better believe that i have all my vehicles with a shot of it on a regular basis
First time i encountered water in my cap was from hi humidity it was when
I ran into water problems with my 4x4 wheeler when i would do water crossings or watery mud it just seeps in and pop off the top and quick spray and she is good as new. And it wont damage anything in there as its non corrosive.
up here near seattle you better believe that i have all my vehicles with a shot of it on a regular basis First time i encountered water in my cap was from hi humidity it was when
I ran into water problems with my 4x4 wheeler when i would do water crossings or watery mud it just seeps in and pop off the top and quick spray and she is good as new. And it wont damage anything in there as its non corrosive.
11-22-2005, 05:11 AM
#29
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,114
WD-40 is a mix of mineral oil with kerosene. It does not absorb water, its adhesion to surface is higher, than water's. WD40 sticks to the surface and water stays on top of it, that's the only difference before and after application. Basically, water is still there, just not soaking or covering the surface.
11-22-2005, 06:23 AM
#30
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Dwell, duration are something you set on a points ignition, not an electronic ignition
Just because the ECU controls it doesn't mean it wont effect it, but hey if you want to promote that style of maintenance, be my guest.
Hey anything to up sales right? 
Originally Posted by internetautomar
and I'd also have to disagree with most max's being COP. all of the early ones (81-91) were Dizzy and then the lowly VG kept it until 2/94 . But you should have known all of that
11-22-2005, 08:32 AM
#32
Originally Posted by MrGone
I have absolutely no experience with this at all, ever!
Just because the ECU controls it doesn't mean it wont effect it, but hey if you want to promote that style of maintenance, be my guest. Hey anything to up sales right?
He never specified 3rd gen Maximas, he just said Maxima's in general. Shall I get the production numbers, forgoing the ones in the junkyard.
Just because the ECU controls it doesn't mean it wont effect it, but hey if you want to promote that style of maintenance, be my guest.
Hey anything to up sales right? He never specified 3rd gen Maximas, he just said Maxima's in general. Shall I get the production numbers, forgoing the ones in the junkyard.
11-22-2005, 10:07 AM
#33
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I was wondering the other day, I have 2 extra coils (i have 2 VG's) and a bunch of extra wires. I was thinking of wiring two coils in paralell. I would think that would reduce the dell time and increse the strength of the spark. Or am I just over thinking that whole system?
~Alex
~Alex
11-22-2005, 12:19 PM
#34
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,114
I highly doubt that otherwise healthy VG engine can benefit from a second coil. But I am almost sure, that it is possible to gain a couple extra horses by replacing the power transistor with a contemporary suitable one. The parameters of semiconductors have since improved dramatically and there may be something to be had in this area. As regards to the coil, I think Nissan has done a good job.
11-22-2005, 12:46 PM
#36
Originally Posted by internetautomar
the ecu actually doesn't normally control it, it controls the timing. the dwell equivelant is controled by the ignition module
sorry for not being specific
Originally Posted by tarzan
I know that I do risk something by bending the cap prongs, but over the last 4 years that I am doing that my car runs fine, pulls strong and uses less than spec amount of gas.
whatever works.... I guess....
11-22-2005, 03:54 PM
#37
Originally Posted by Tarzan
I know that I do risk something by bending the cap prongs, but over the last 4 years that I am doing that my car runs fine, pulls strong and uses less than spec amount of gas.
And i thought i was a cheap @ss...
