use a different block

 

I used ARP rod bolts when I built mine. I think it was good insurance. Matt I have a set of VE rods with worn stock pistons. I'll send you one if you need. So this rules out that the KS blew that engine??? J/K

 

.......

 

http://www.engineceramics.com/coating_pistons.htm




dooooo iitttttt

they are local

 

I wish it was warm out here so I could work on my car, its 25 degrees and 9 inches of snow are due in the next 16 hours.

Van: you kill me man. [/QUOTE]

I feel your pain. I'm trying to get done with a head on a Caravan. The machine shop took 2 weeks and now when I am able to go work on it the weather goes to crap. I need to be doing things with mine as well. I get enough winter operations at the airport without having to work in it at home.

 

Thanks for the offer, but I don't have any shortage of rods for this thing...
this blwon engine, two more VEs in the garage, and two VG30DEs in there as well...
and I have a set of ARP rod bolts in the mail.

now I just need to figure out if this block is still useable or not. if so, then I can bore it to 87.5mm and use stock VG30DE pistons in it.. If not, then I'll have to go with aftermarket 88mm in my other block.

 

What, this has been almost a year now, it took ya long enough! j/k I'm surprised you made it a half-lap around the track before the motor finally quit running. I think I'll be putting in some ARP's soon like we talked about, replacing engine internals doens't appeal to my wallet right now.

 

actually it was still running when I stopped the car. just clattering like a sumbish.
when I shut if off, the rod finally got turned crooked in there and wedged between the crank and block, which is what prevented it from running.

at this point, I could theoretically put the oil pan back on, disconnect that injector, and drive the car.. I'm sure there's metal in the oil pump and stuff so I'm not goign to do it, but if I were at a race and knew I was going to toss the engine anyway, I would do just that.. I could have it running in 30 min.

 

So I am little out of my depth here, but do you think it is possible that regular operation at significantly higher than the factory redline could have caused the rod bolt to loosen?

 

If you really want to be sure about that block, you will probably need to get it magnafluxed.

 

there are many factors involved here, but I'm sure the 7000rpm redline is one of them.
improper torquing or rod end bolts, worn/spun bearings, lots of high load/high rpm use...

 

It probably fell out that nice hole in the oil pan, its at the race track

 

what was done to the motor before this blew????? anything special....... was it tuboed or anything?????? i believe it was since you raced it..... so a stock VE could definately handle it being redlined that much???????? i know eventually it will fail......but with 69k.. it has lots of redlining left right?????? (i love to redline it and i am paying the price now...but i dont care.. it is fun!!!!)

 

just bolt ons... pulley, flywheel, intake, ecu, exhaust... and lots of time at 6000+ rpm.

yours has no problems for a daily driver... but if you plan to turbo it or do any high RPM use, I suggest you spend the $50 to replace the con rod bolts with some from ARP. (the VE30DE and VG30DE (and TT) all use the same connecting rods and bearings, so it's not a problem to use the ARP rod bolts for them.

 

I'd want to start over with a different short block. that blown block is damaged goods IMHO, i couldn't trust it.

 

question mark key stick much?????????????????????????????????????

 

thus the reason I'm taking all three blocks to the machine shop when the time comes... have them pick the one that's in the best shape and I'll order pistons and bearings to fit once the block is ready.

 

atta' boy.

 

it just means it is a really inportant question..LOL



so when i take it to the race track... with all stock besides exhaust.. i should be fine right?????

 

yeah stock suspension is best for track, especially autoX

 

as long as you're not bouncing it off the rev limiter in 3rd and 4th gear several times a lap for 4 hours, then sure.. your engine should hold up just fine.

 

Heh, reminds of this Mazda 6 autostick I had for a rental a few months back. In autostick mode, it will automatically downshift but it won't automatically upshift at redline....

 

that's a BS setup, our old legacy did the same kinda thing
my MIL's malibu is a lot closer to being stick like in that you actually need to downshift it manually if you are in manual

 

you're getting older

not sure if you can lift those blocks on your own like us broly youngains

 

right...
Shawny, I wanna see you heave one with block, crank, and pistons. I want video.
http://blehmco.com/pics/engine/Dead_VG/IM001268.JPG
http://blehmco.com/pics/engine/Dead_VG/IM001275.JPG
It didn't get there on its own...

 

you are far more brave than me



that engine... those amps... :scurred:

 

bare block is heavy enough

with rotating mass.... you are insane lol

 

And 2" of cardboard and with of plastic in between.

 

2" would be about right for a SUV


that car
that driver
those brakes
that driver

needs 4" and lots of additional padding







edit: I bet with that in there that car isn't so much of a "nose heavy sumabiatch"

 

nope...
http://blehmco.com/pics/engine/Dead_VG/IM001264.JPG

 

otay!! thanks...... in that last pic.... i guess the rear is low t o the ground from the engine?

 

 

this pic

 

Perhaps but the front end is probably missing a few hundred pounds...

 

dam i am a dumb ***....thanks for pointing that out.. i was ocnfused..

 

Why would you think that?
look at the rest of the pics in that directory..
I had just gotten back from swapping an engine for a customer in Austin. he gave me the old, dead one and I hauled it home as well as all my toolz.

 

i knew i noticed somethign not right...

 

its ok matt, we know you swaped in a VQ35....

~Alex

 

It would prolly be cheaper than the VE build I'm going to do.

 

hehehehe

Durango made that easy for me
seats down + boxes. Filled up the entire back of the thing, but I didn't stack anything on top of stuff (probably could have but meh). I also hot tanked the block before I took it home so oil wasn't much of a problem

and well.... you could probably put 3 engines in the back and still not have it sag