somebody hit me wtf
12-18-2005, 05:21 AM
#4
find someone that restores muscle cars.
that hit stinks because the easy/cheap fix is bondo, and that will probably never look right. Yu can't pull that dent out due to the contours involved. Your BEST option is to cut out that dent and weld in a new piece right there, it will also probably be the most expensive option too.
that hit stinks because the easy/cheap fix is bondo, and that will probably never look right. Yu can't pull that dent out due to the contours involved. Your BEST option is to cut out that dent and weld in a new piece right there, it will also probably be the most expensive option too.
12-18-2005, 06:17 AM
#5
Originally Posted by internetautomar
find someone that restores muscle cars.
that hit stinks because the easy/cheap fix is bondo, and that will probably never look right. Yu can't pull that dent out due to the contours involved. Your BEST option is to cut out that dent and weld in a new piece right there, it will also probably be the most expensive option too.
that hit stinks because the easy/cheap fix is bondo, and that will probably never look right. Yu can't pull that dent out due to the contours involved. Your BEST option is to cut out that dent and weld in a new piece right there, it will also probably be the most expensive option too.
1 a place that restores muscle cars will laugh at him and send him to the hack down the block to do a quick fix on an old IMPORT car.
2 you can definately pull on that. a good shop will weld a tab onto the dogleg, put it on a frame machine and pull the wheelhouse back out to the rough shape, same with the dent on the back of the 1/4 panel. once theyre done they cut off the tab, grind it flat and watch the mud fly. look closely at any car that boyd or foose builds on their shows. all old muscle cars. and before theyre painted theyre drenched in plastic. that junkyard dog 56 that boyd build was one of the rare ones where they actually showed them putting plastic from end to end on every panel.
12-18-2005, 06:23 AM
#6
1. where he was hit won't come out in a pull, it's the actual fender lip, 99% of body men will never get that perfectly straight.
2. Bomdo/filler is used any time you do a partial repair, rather than replace a whole panel. it's how you ensure a smooth surface to work on. the thickness of the filler isnormally well less than a 1/32th of an inch thick.
you've got your opinion and I've got mine
2. Bomdo/filler is used any time you do a partial repair, rather than replace a whole panel. it's how you ensure a smooth surface to work on. the thickness of the filler isnormally well less than a 1/32th of an inch thick.
you've got your opinion and I've got mine
12-18-2005, 08:20 AM
#7
Originally Posted by internetautomar
1. where he was hit won't come out in a pull, it's the actual fender lip, 99% of body men will never get that perfectly straight.
2. Bomdo/filler is used any time you do a partial repair, rather than replace a whole panel. it's how you ensure a smooth surface to work on. the thickness of the filler isnormally well less than a 1/32th of an inch thick.
you've got your opinion and I've got mine
2. Bomdo/filler is used any time you do a partial repair, rather than replace a whole panel. it's how you ensure a smooth surface to work on. the thickness of the filler isnormally well less than a 1/32th of an inch thick.
you've got your opinion and I've got mine
you also work the metal to have a smooth surface to work on, and you use filler to fill the imperfections. you shouldnt have to work on anything else after that, prime it, block out the primer and you're done. you do this on a partial repair or full replacement(quarter panels, door skins, hinge pilars/rockers etc. you SHOUDLNT have to do it when replacing a bolt on part, but they occasionally come in damaged, or need some tweaking if they're aftermarket.
you sell parts for a living and i estimate/repair cars for a living
. i did the bodywork on my 3rd gen and the bodywork and paint on my 4th gen.
that 1/4 panel is fixable without abortioning it by cutting out pieces. i guess the bodymen you deal with suck a$$ because if they can't fix that right how do you expect them to replace a quarter panel properly. even if they were going to have to replace the quarter, they still need to do a preliminary pull to get out any indirect damage(wheelhouse is in, inner 1/4 is in) you dont just bang that stuff out later. do me a favor and measure 1/32. a ding is way deeper than that. if you know someone that can metalwork to where they only need to use 1/32 of filler god bless them, but welding on a new 1/4 alone will warp the surrounding metal where it'll need more than 1/32. 1/8 overall, 1/4 max in the deepest areas (oviously a dent has high and low spots) is acceptable industry standards. and btw, some highfill primers go on thicker than 1/32".
12-18-2005, 08:50 AM
#8
yeah htta is easily pullable by a competent body man, Mine was kinda liek that and it was pulled out, yes it did have to have filler also since the man that can pull any dent and have it come out perfectly smooth.. well he woudl be super rich.
...
12-18-2005, 12:33 PM
#11
Originally Posted by fatboyslim86440
alright thanks for yalls input
so yall are saying i should fix the dent my self and get it professional repainted?
Thanks
Kyle Cisneros
so yall are saying i should fix the dent my self and get it professional repainted?
Thanks
Kyle Cisneros
12-18-2005, 05:42 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Glenside PA, 19038
Posts: 582
Originally Posted by shavedmax
you know, you dont have to win every discussion. obviously if you knew what you were talking about you know that the panels at the back of the car are called quarter panels, the FRONT are fenders. doesnt change for camaros. the only car that has rear fenders are beetles.
you also work the metal to have a smooth surface to work on, and you use filler to fill the imperfections. you shouldnt have to work on anything else after that, prime it, block out the primer and you're done. you do this on a partial repair or full replacement(quarter panels, door skins, hinge pilars/rockers etc. you SHOUDLNT have to do it when replacing a bolt on part, but they occasionally come in damaged, or need some tweaking if they're aftermarket.
you sell parts for a living and i estimate/repair cars for a living
. i did the bodywork on my 3rd gen and the bodywork and paint on my 4th gen.
that 1/4 panel is fixable without abortioning it by cutting out pieces. i guess the bodymen you deal with suck a$$ because if they can't fix that right how do you expect them to replace a quarter panel properly. even if they were going to have to replace the quarter, they still need to do a preliminary pull to get out any indirect damage(wheelhouse is in, inner 1/4 is in) you dont just bang that stuff out later. do me a favor and measure 1/32. a ding is way deeper than that. if you know someone that can metalwork to where they only need to use 1/32 of filler god bless them, but welding on a new 1/4 alone will warp the surrounding metal where it'll need more than 1/32. 1/8 overall, 1/4 max in the deepest areas (oviously a dent has high and low spots) is acceptable industry standards. and btw, some highfill primers go on thicker than 1/32".
you also work the metal to have a smooth surface to work on, and you use filler to fill the imperfections. you shouldnt have to work on anything else after that, prime it, block out the primer and you're done. you do this on a partial repair or full replacement(quarter panels, door skins, hinge pilars/rockers etc. you SHOUDLNT have to do it when replacing a bolt on part, but they occasionally come in damaged, or need some tweaking if they're aftermarket.
you sell parts for a living and i estimate/repair cars for a living
. i did the bodywork on my 3rd gen and the bodywork and paint on my 4th gen.
that 1/4 panel is fixable without abortioning it by cutting out pieces. i guess the bodymen you deal with suck a$$ because if they can't fix that right how do you expect them to replace a quarter panel properly. even if they were going to have to replace the quarter, they still need to do a preliminary pull to get out any indirect damage(wheelhouse is in, inner 1/4 is in) you dont just bang that stuff out later. do me a favor and measure 1/32. a ding is way deeper than that. if you know someone that can metalwork to where they only need to use 1/32 of filler god bless them, but welding on a new 1/4 alone will warp the surrounding metal where it'll need more than 1/32. 1/8 overall, 1/4 max in the deepest areas (oviously a dent has high and low spots) is acceptable industry standards. and btw, some highfill primers go on thicker than 1/32".
owned.....
12-19-2005, 06:57 AM
#15
Originally Posted by internetautomar
1. where he was hit won't come out in a pull, it's the actual fender lip, 99% of body men will never get that perfectly straight.
2. Bomdo/filler is used any time you do a partial repair, rather than replace a whole panel. it's how you ensure a smooth surface to work on. the thickness of the filler isnormally well less than a 1/32th of an inch thick.
you've got your opinion and I've got mine
2. Bomdo/filler is used any time you do a partial repair, rather than replace a whole panel. it's how you ensure a smooth surface to work on. the thickness of the filler isnormally well less than a 1/32th of an inch thick.
you've got your opinion and I've got mine
u could come see my car and not tell it was smashed the **** up on the one side.
12-19-2005, 07:18 AM
#16
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 91
the same crap happened to me when I was downtown (austin, texas) I was just down at the lake, came back and my right side had been gently dented.
oh by the way, I'm a newbie. I just bought a 1991 max, tranny is blown, but I'm rebuilding it. thought I would put in my two cents.
oh by the way, I'm a newbie. I just bought a 1991 max, tranny is blown, but I'm rebuilding it. thought I would put in my two cents.
12-19-2005, 12:37 PM
#18
Originally Posted by fatboyslim86440
where can i get this frame machine or do i have to take it to machanic or someother crap
i just want this annoying dent in my car
thanks
Kyle Cisneros
i just want this annoying dent in my car
thanks
Kyle Cisneros
body shop will have to pull it for you.
12-19-2005, 02:19 PM
#19
Interautomart you can't mess with shavedmax's skills 
The day before thanksgiving, I was driving in a shopping center and some stupid chick backed outta her parking spot right into me. I saw it happening in slow motion, I threw the car in reverse and hit the horn simultaneously (hella super tones
), but she still caught my corner light and took some paint off the bumper. Luckily she was in soft civic. I made her give me $25 for the corner lense 
*****. If I hadent' gone into reverse she would have hit the fender 
The day before thanksgiving, I was driving in a shopping center and some stupid chick backed outta her parking spot right into me. I saw it happening in slow motion, I threw the car in reverse and hit the horn simultaneously (hella super tones
), but she still caught my corner light and took some paint off the bumper. Luckily she was in soft civic. I made her give me $25 for the corner lense *****. If I hadent' gone into reverse she would have hit the fender
12-19-2005, 04:16 PM
#20
Originally Posted by fatboyslim86440
where can i get this frame machine or do i have to take it to machanic or someother crap
i just want this annoying dent in my car
thanks
Kyle Cisneros
i just want this annoying dent in my car
thanks
Kyle Cisneros
12-19-2005, 04:57 PM
#21
Originally Posted by shavedmax
if you have 20-30 grand laying around you can buy one, or go the cheap route and let a shop do the work for you.
I could have gotten one for a LOT cheaper a week or so ago. A pretty close (45 min away) body shop went out of business and was selling everything cheap. I got a nice Sata gun with a bunch of extras (3M pps system including containers etc.) for $100, a huge air compressor (main thing I wanted) for $500, and today I picked up a dustless sanding system for $100...it has 3 blocks, an orbital sander, shop vac and a bunch of sand paper for it.
My dad almost bought their lift (4 post drive up) but he only wanted to pay $1500 and the guy wouldnt come down from $1800. I didnt ask about the frame machine because I knew I didnt have a place for it but I know it went really cheap. I REALLY wanted his paint booth but it sold on the first day he decided to sell off everything (I got my compressor and gun on the second day). I am not sure what it went for but it was a really nice booth...I think it was less than a year old.
12-19-2005, 06:18 PM
#22
Originally Posted by awsm66
I could have gotten one for a LOT cheaper a week or so ago. A pretty close (45 min away) body shop went out of business and was selling everything cheap. I got a nice Sata gun with a bunch of extras (3M pps system including containers etc.) for $100, a huge air compressor (main thing I wanted) for $500, and today I picked up a dustless sanding system for $100...it has 3 blocks, an orbital sander, shop vac and a bunch of sand paper for it.
My dad almost bought their lift (4 post drive up) but he only wanted to pay $1500 and the guy wouldnt come down from $1800. I didnt ask about the frame machine because I knew I didnt have a place for it but I know it went really cheap. I REALLY wanted his paint booth but it sold on the first day he decided to sell off everything (I got my compressor and gun on the second day). I am not sure what it went for but it was a really nice booth...I think it was less than a year old.
My dad almost bought their lift (4 post drive up) but he only wanted to pay $1500 and the guy wouldnt come down from $1800. I didnt ask about the frame machine because I knew I didnt have a place for it but I know it went really cheap. I REALLY wanted his paint booth but it sold on the first day he decided to sell off everything (I got my compressor and gun on the second day). I am not sure what it went for but it was a really nice booth...I think it was less than a year old.
your professional opinion ser, could that be fixed properly?
oh btw, ill be testing out my skills on a brand new big a$$ f750 this week. full respray. hope i do an ok job
12-19-2005, 07:02 PM
#23
Originally Posted by shavedmax
oh btw, ill be testing out my skills on a brand new big a$$ f750 this week. full respray. hope i do an ok job
you better do an ok job, your position as in-house painter for Zullo & Associates depends on it.
Bling balow, that is one sexy beast. big face ****.
12-19-2005, 07:50 PM
#25
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 91
I know this is off topic and kinda stupid to ask, but as of right now i can't post a new thread, look in my pm box, or anything besides post replies. do I need to do something to change this or am I just waiting for an admin to do something to my account??
12-19-2005, 08:02 PM
#26
[QUOTE=Yicco]I know this is off topic
Not on the topic, don't post, or you can post and be banned for not reading the rules and posting off the topic.:ban:
We had a good thing going here. Thanks for pisn in a good thread.
Not on the topic, don't post, or you can post and be banned for not reading the rules and posting off the topic.:ban:
We had a good thing going here. Thanks for pisn in a good thread.
12-19-2005, 08:21 PM
#27
Originally Posted by shavedmax
i meant new obviously, a friend of mine just bought a car-o-liner bench with computer, jigs etc and that was about 56 grand.
Originally Posted by shavedmax
your professional opinion ser, could that be fixed properly?
.
Originally Posted by shavedmax
oh btw, ill be testing out my skills on a brand new big a$$ f750 this week. full respray. hope i do an ok job
.
12-20-2005, 08:25 AM
#30
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 91
[QUOTE=therealgoon9]
well then how the hell am I supposed to post on any thread, or even create a thread if I can't do it.. thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by Yicco
I know this is off topic
Not on the topic, don't post, or you can post and be banned for not reading the rules and posting off the topic.:ban:
We had a good thing going here. Thanks for pisn in a good thread.
Not on the topic, don't post, or you can post and be banned for not reading the rules and posting off the topic.:ban:
We had a good thing going here. Thanks for pisn in a good thread.
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